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Jchilly's Winter Project

13K views 90 replies 16 participants last post by  laggy311 
#1 · (Edited)
This is kind of how my bike is right now.

Since it's winter time in Michigan it means to keep the bike on the stands and violate her :devious
Thing is, im the third owner and i dont know what's been done and hasnt been done! so all you vets, she has 18k miles. what should i have done over winter?

Plans:
K&N Air Filter - Done
Change Brake fluid - Done
Install speed bleeders- Done
Install Hel SS Lines- Done
Chinese Shorty Levers- Done
Kleen air mod
ZZR front stay bracket
Lube Cables
Flush current coolant
Check/Grease Bearings
Jet Kit
Fork seals/oil/springs
Valve adjustment
Sync Carbs
New Spark Plugs
Change shock
Install APE Cam tensioner
Paint Frame (black?)-
Modding my new fairings?-
What else should i add?
 
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#2 ·
What you doing to the forks exactly??

Have you got the stock shock on it?
 
#3 ·
i just changed it. I believe the seals and oil might need to be done. have no idea.

as far as i know it's stock shock
 
#4 ·
You can find newer & better shocks on eBay for cheap.
Id go with an 07 -2012 ZX6R shock.

As for the forks, Id do a fluid flush & change. New springs will help it a lot too.
 
#5 ·
are the shocks completely compatible or do they need mods?

And for the fluid/seal/springs is there any brand or anything you could guide me towards?
 
#6 ·
#8 ·
Thats what there here for, Feel free to creep around. lol
 
#10 ·
What year shock did you find?
 
#13 ·
i supposedly found a 2012 with 2k miles on it.

Take the swing arm off and clean, inspect and re-grease the bearings. Same with the steering stem. Not all that hard to do with it as far apart as you already have it.
Lube the cables.
Remove, clean, inspect and re-grease all the controls; front and rear brake levers, clutch lever, peg pivots (if you don't have rearsets). Use a good waterproof grease.
Flush and change the coolant.
Sync the carbs/throttle bodies.

All good annual maintenance items.
sounds like a good idea. when i took off my rear real and looked the wheel bearings i was like oh boy. thanks!
Subscribed. I love build threads
it's not gonna be as good as 11B or OND but ill give it a shot!
 
#11 ·
Take the swing arm off and clean, inspect and re-grease the bearings. Same with the steering stem. Not all that hard to do with it as far apart as you already have it.

Lube the cables.
Remove, clean, inspect and re-grease all the controls; front and rear brake levers, clutch lever, peg pivots (if you don't have rearsets). Use a good waterproof grease.
Flush and change the coolant.
Sync the carbs/throttle bodies.

All good annual maintenance items.
 
#14 · (Edited)
This is just an example of how dirty my baby is from its previous owner :(


OND would be so upset lol

Todays project? Install Hel SS Lines and Speed Bleeders. (whenever they come in the mail today)
 
#17 · (Edited)
My lines and bleeders are in!



Black SS lines from Hel and speed bleeders order from my neighbors at sport bike track gear.


 
#19 ·
#21 ·
Just put in for a new shock, and new springs.

I've been fighting the flu so thats why nothings going on right now. Im feeling a little better. So hopefully tomorrow after work i'll install my lines.
 
#22 ·
Installing Front and rear Hel SS lines

Well finally after fighting the flu i had some time to do my SS lines!

I started off with the rear brake lines. So i Got the rear reservoir out with a 10mm socket.


Took off the lid so i could drain out the line.


Other people use a syringe i use the mityvac MV8000. I picked it up at harbor freight for like 40 bucks.


Put the wrench on the bleeder screw. Give the vacuum 10-20 pumps, open up the bleeder screw and let it flow out and then close the bleeder screw.


not a really good pic but...


So after the rear i moved on to the front. Rule of thumb. Put paper towel everywhere! it's worth it. and i learned the trick of once you pump all the old fluid out of the lines, put paper towel in the holes to absorb any left over fluid.


see


really bad lighting. But see how nasty the MC banjo was?


once again, paper towel everywhere.


For removing stock lines, for the J, maybe all of them. There is a metal block joining the top line and splitting them. Its screwed into a brace.



Remember new crush washers!


Make sure the lines aren't twisted and you can freely turn the handle bars so that the SS lines dont cause steering interference


To the people that dont have SS lines yet, The new banjos are 14mm instead of 10mm i think the old ones were. Torque them between 14-24 Ft Lbs. I torqued to 20 ft lbs.

Next i'll be doing speed bleeders.
 
#24 ·
Lets see the new lines.
 
#26 ·
after
 
#27 ·
Pics of new SS lines for OND

Here's the rear line


Front lines


Both Calipers. (i know there's shit on my tires. replacing anyways)



looking for a new fender as well. poor babys broken :/
 
#28 ·
Installing Bleeder screws

When doing this process. Make sure your reservoir is filled with DOT4 Brake fluid and its sealed tight. This way when you take off the old bleeder screw, you'll lose only a lil brake fluid.


Paper towels everywhere. Cause its gonna get wet :devious


Now i didnt have pics of this cause i was doing it by myself. But, have your new speed bleeder in hands reach, out of the box. You'll need a 10mm deep socket to get the old bleeder off. And a 8mm deep socket to get the new one on. Tighten it till it wont get any tighter. and boom. you have this! (i took the old caps off and put them on the new ones.)

All Stainless steel!


id have pictures of the rear but i dont know where my 3rd speed bleeder went :rant :O

But bleeding your brakes with these....is a god send.
 
#29 ·
Looks like you done the lines the hard way mate.. When I done my fronts I just in bolted the lot and took it all off as 1 and the rebuilt the fronts on the bench and put back on and filled it up and bleed it and done..
 
#30 ·
Probably. I did the bleeders and lines on two different days. But, i just wanted to make sure all of the fluid was out so i didnt drip all over the place.
 
#34 ·
Lines look good. Whats next?
 
#36 ·
Sorry dude.
There was a 2012 shock & linkage for $9.99 + $12 shipping.
Had a day left on it, & some tard bid $50.
That was the only bid on it.
Could've been had for less than $20 shipped.
Thought that you were THAT tard.
Lol.....sorry man.
 
#37 ·
omg what a tard. see this is where that facepalm smiley guy would come in handy. sounds like the same shock but mines diff shipping amount. what a flippin yard
 
#38 ·


new fork springs i got OEM for 20 bucks shippped with <500 miles on them. just been having car problems. (400 bucks) so buying parts is kinda slow. shock & linkage will come in tomorrow.
 
#40 ·
thanks bud. It's not really a great build compared to yours. but I'm trying to rebuild basics. i got some painting to do and new fairings to modify so. with all new seals and stuff she'll feel new.
 
#41 ·
Painted Sprocket Cover

with flash


with out


2 coats of primer and 3 coats of paint. and here's my ghetto paint station
fan, boxes, sandpaper and paint ^__^



next is the clutch cover. whenever i get that off.
 
#44 ·
#43 ·
Looks sweet.
 
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