The best damn SS rotors on the planet - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 10-11-2016, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
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The best damn SS rotors on the planet

In Whoa Cube thread I talked about being unsatisfied with my braking system. The O.EM. brake system just wasn't cutting it on twisty-curvies of the Sierra Nevada, as well as coastal PHC, Hwy 1.

So, I went with premium Gale Speed Variable lever Ratio master cylinder, and complementary clutch perch. Absolutely amazing stuff! The next phase, I turned to our own Hard Racing and went with the Brake Tech stainless steel units. I've use Brake Tech, and have absolute complete faith in these rotors - they are simply the best, hands down. If you're looking for the best in deceleration, look no further than Brake Tech.

The new twist is the recent release by Brake Tech of their new line of full floating rear brake rotors. I really look forward to putting this bugger through the paces. I rely on my rear brake not just for stopping purposes, but for turn-in inputs. I will report later on my impression of the floating rear rotor when weather/road conditions allow. My weather is not as severe as several parts of the nation, but we are having our fair share of rain; and when it isn't raining it turns cold - lows in the lower 40s-upper 30s; so the roads don't warm up until latter afternoon.
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post #2 of 18 Old 10-12-2016, 03:45 PM
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Looks awesome! But just curious, what is the purpose of a floating rear brake? Im interested to see how well it works out for you!
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post #3 of 18 Old 10-13-2016, 02:56 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by arsftarmy View Post
Looks awesome! But just curious, what is the purpose of a floating rear brake? Im interested to see how well it works out for you!

For argument's sake, I'm not going to discuss carbon fibre brakes. There are three kinds of brake rotors: solid, semi-floating, and full floating. Solid are what one finds as O.E.M. on rear brake, and many cruiser & standard front brakes. They are stamped from a single metal disc and bolt directly to the wheel, and are where the pads grasp. Semi-floating are made from two pieces of metal, an inner piece which bolts to the wheel, often aluminum (Al), and an outer piece of either iron or stainless steel which the pads make contact with. These two sections are connected together via rivets, sometimes incorrectly called buttons - they are in fact, nearly rigid. Full floating also use an inner section with an outer section using buttons to connect them. Semi-floating & full-floating look similar but behave differently.

The positive aspect of solid rotors is they are cheap to produce. But when subjected to high heat loads and/or frequent heat loads with little/no cooling intervals, are subject to warping because they can't expand as easily. To help combat the warping issue solid rotors are thicker (heavier).

Many O.E. front rotors are actually semi-floating (yes, even Italian bikes). The advantage with this type is they are usually quieter than full floating. An advantage that a floating rotor possess is "knockback", where they knock the pad back so that there is less pad drag and heat build up. The rivet used on semi-floating rotor has springs that reside between the rivet and disc components. You should feel some "give" if you move the rotor perpendicular to the rotor, but the rivets usually cannot be spun around. This "stuck" aspect doesn't allow as much heat dissipation as full-floating rotors

Full-floating use buttons without the springs. Instead the buttons are held in place with a snap ring or an e-clip. These buttons allow full float and can be turned completely around with fingers with little effort; they always vibrate/rattle. I always spin the buttons around when ever I wash my bike making a point to spin the buttons while the wheels/rotors are suds upped to remove any debris that could gather in the spaces binding the buttons.

Full-floating rotors have the advantage of expanding in all directions whereas a fixed one can't. Also, solid rear brake rotors don't have the benefit of having the cooling air stream that front brakes do. Again, warping can be a chronic issue.

I have stated that though I may not be en vogue, I do use my rear brake, and have warped my fair share of rear rotors (even O.E. front rotors). FAQ: all WSB, WSS, & Moto GP bikes use full-floating rotors.

Note: The last (#3) picture clearly show the snap ring used to retain button of full-floating rear rotor
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post #4 of 18 Old 10-13-2016, 05:30 AM
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They look really good. Hope the weather works out so we can see how you like them.

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post #5 of 18 Old 10-13-2016, 10:51 AM
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Can I ask why you went with ss instead of the Iron Axis?
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post #6 of 18 Old 10-13-2016, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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They look really good. Hope the weather works out so we can see how you like them.
Where in AB are you from? 🏔I moved to AB when I was 4-yr, born in MT. Lived W of Calgary - up in the mtns. I loved the long days of summer. But I really appreciate the autumn up there. Hope you're having a good one. I don't miss the winter one bloody bit

We've got a week of rain w/a breeze or two, hope to shake down the new m/c & rotors when the storm track blows your way, and clears up a wee bit here.

Cheers
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post #7 of 18 Old 10-13-2016, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Can I ask why you went with ss instead of the Iron Axis?
Sure you can ask... I live a little over an hour from the largest body of HO on the planet. I'm supposed to get over 4-in of rainfall before the weekend is done. Why the meteorological forecast? FeO, a.k.a. ferric oxide, a.k.a. rust. Iron rotors are lovely until they start turning orange-y red from free water molecules in air. Stainless steel does not have these inherent issues.
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post #8 of 18 Old 10-14-2016, 09:24 AM
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Fair point, but to be honest the rust rubs off the first time you touch the brakes. A little rust far outweighs the benefits to me... If I was buying ss rotors I would've gone for the Brembo T-drive rotors they are "the" ss rotor on the market at the moment.
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post #9 of 18 Old 10-14-2016, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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Fair point, but to be honest the rust rubs off the first time you touch the brakes. A little rust far outweighs the benefits to me... If I was buying ss rotors I would've gone for the Brembo T-drive rotors they are "the" ss rotor on the market at the moment.
You're absolutely correct about the brake pads scouring the surface rust, but doesn't address rust in holes/slots, etc. Virtually every auto sold uses iron rotors, why? They're cheap, I know the pricing is reversed w/bikes - that's a #s in production issue - manufacturers are already geared up for SS because that's what O.E.s are setup for. Bikes are normally not used as often as autos, and it's the static non-use is when rust is most insidious. After a period of time we just replace them and it's not terribly expensive to do so.

As for Brembo vs B. T., I've used both on street & track - arguably, the Brembo T-hat on a borrowed street/track bike. If you are happy with your Brembos than that is the rotor for you. You may argue that that's what race teams use, that's because B. T. is a very small company compared to Brembo. Brembo has been in business a substantially longer time. Business - all business - are about relationships. Cross branding has been going on longer than you & I have been alive.

Again, if you choose Brembo and have not used B. T. yourself than I would feel, it's your presumptions speaking, and not impirical experience. And that's perfectly OK, too. As I said prior, I've had the opportunity to experience both (the Brembo not in the wet). For my money - and there are certainly cheaper routes - I would always go with B.T.

A lot of what each rider wrestles with is for lack of a more scientific term is "feel". I've been riding and modding bikes for 4 decades; some in strictly road use, some in strictly race use, and bikes used in both venues. Feel and money are the defining elements. I just happen to love Brake Tech AXIS Cobra.

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post #10 of 18 Old 10-16-2016, 03:36 PM
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post #11 of 18 Old 10-16-2016, 03:37 PM
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Fair enough, you know what works for you and you have obviously done your research so fair play.

To be clear I'm a Braketech fan and have run Iron axis rotors for awhile now. I was just playing devil's advocate to your statement of "best rotors" and maybe spark some convo.
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post #12 of 18 Old 10-23-2016, 08:57 PM
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I don't need these but man do they look awesome. I'm sure they have that nice full floating rattle too.

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post #13 of 18 Old 10-27-2016, 02:10 PM
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This thread made me do some research on solid, semi vs full-floating rotors and this is on my list for next upgrades.

I was having some braking woes with my ninja 300 (solid rotor) with the pads only having contact with the outer portion of the disk. Just three track days and some EBC sintered pads cooked it. I took it off yesterday and that disk looked like a fruit bowl!
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post #14 of 18 Old 11-05-2016, 11:09 PM
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Here's a before and after pic on my ninja 300. Can you tell which is the old rotor?





Full floating rotors on my zx6r here I come.

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post #15 of 18 Old 11-06-2016, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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This thread made me do some research on solid, semi vs full-floating rotors and this is on my list for next upgrades.

I was having some braking woes with my ninja 300 (solid rotor) with the pads only having contact with the outer portion of the disk. Just three track days and some EBC sintered pads cooked it. I took it off yesterday and that disk looked like a fruit bowl!

JD41, I've liked nearly every post you've posted on the forum, in short, I don't know you, but I respect you. Your Qs/As are measured and intelligent. I'm not gonna shine you on, up grading your brake system is not cheap. And with that, absolutely consider upgrading it as a system, meaning pads, lines, synthetic fluid, rotors and m/c.

The closest example I can give is if one puts on a $1500 full-monty exhaust system and does nothing with the air filter, and fuel management system, i.e., DJ PC-V or Bazazz FI, re-flash the CPU, etc. And your buddies are going to ogle the exhaust can like Ana Cheri and totally ignore your new full-floating rotors and variable, fully adjustable master cylinder and folding lever (in basic black). I have since come to love the always fashionable black & shun the anodic rainbow lever & adjuster combos of yore.

I believe the only totally needed upgrade that goes completely under appreciated is money invested in suspension. Unless your buddies are all hardcore racers, they will never appreciate that subtle sticker on the bottom of your fork legs, or worse that barely seen new shock. I love Penske shocks and they come will a navy blue spring, talk about incognito!

Back to your brake system, as you can afford - and you're the only one who can answer that - pull the trigger and upgrade your brake system. Remember, the O.E. fronts are only semi-floating. Brake Tech don't look special, but they are oh-so special.

Happy hunting.
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