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How To: DIY 12v Power Source

10K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  martyk 
#1 ·
Hopefully this will actually make the DIY page...

Disclaimer: Neither myself nor zx6r.com are reliable for anything that goes wrong in your installation/modification. If any part of this how to seems out of your league you're better off getting help or finding someone else to do it.

So I have been contemplating adding my 12v power source I had in my 250 to my zx6r. Finally took the time to actually do it. I personally like to have things like this hidden and I have to say, I'm very happy with the outcome.

I personally used the connector from my license plate light since I don't use it. This way the 12v source will not work unless the bike is running and it also alleviates me from having to use an inline fuse (the lic. plate light is on its own fuse).

You could easily wire it directly to your battery, but remember to add a 15amp inline fuse at the battery source, otherwise you could end up having bigger problems... and the other draw back is if you leave something plugged in, your battery will most likely be dead in 2 hours or so.

What you need:
- Waterproof 12v accessory port (cigarette lighter)
- 16 Gauge Wire (black and red)
- Drill & Drill bit (and 4 screws, 4 washers, 4 locking washers, and 4 bolts if your accessory port didn't come with hardware)
- Blue Locktite
- Wire Cutters
- Waterproof heat shrinking wire crimps, or solder iron, solder and heat shrink
- Wire crimps
- License plate light harness (if doing it this way)
- In-Line fuse with 15amp fuse (if going directly to the battery)
- Wire Tape and/or heat shrink for insulation

Step 1:

Strip the left (or right) fairings off the bike (not going to show you how to do this, if you can't figure this out you probably shouldn't be messing with something like this).



Step 2:
Figure out where you want to place the 12v power source, I chose to put mine in a hidden location next to the radiator. Tape it there (if you drill now, you'll regret later).



Now put the fairings back together (no need to bolt em up) to see if the spot you chose is out of the way of everything.





Now get out the wire and measure out how much you'll need for both positive and negative. Crimp or solder the wires to the 12v accessory port.

If going directly to the batter add the inline fuse to the positive wire by either crimping or soldering and heat shrinking it.

(this is a pic of my battery tender, but on the positive size is an inline fuse, that's what you'll need)


If plugging into license plate light strip, solder and heat shrink or crimp both positive and negative wires.





Step 3:
Now comes the fun part. Route all of your wire. If you will be routing between the fram and the engine area, i HIGHLY recommend using some sort of insulation, whether it be heat shrink or wire tape or something else as it will get VERY hot and could cause the wire's insulation to melt and then short out. I personally used a mix of wire tape and heat shrink in those places.









Step 4:
Now it's time to make the purchase points with the drill...not for the faint of heart. If your thinking about using a sticky tape...you can try but I've never had a piece last too long in the rain. So make the first hole and then the second diagonally from that. Insert the screws and set them. Now make 2 more holes. I recommend using some blue locktite so the bolts don't vibrate off.







Step 5:
Now that everything is all set, try it out and see if it works! Now put everything back together and your done!


Can't even tell it's there...
 
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#5 ·
yea, there's prolly about 5 different ways you can do this that i can think of off the top of my head. I figured those 2 would be the easiest and most popular.

I just wish this would actually make it to the DIY page...sent a PM to lash...but we'll see if that does anything...man this site needs more admins...
 
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