How To: Service Fuel Pump and Strainer - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 03-10-2012, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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How To: Service Fuel Pump and Strainer

As always: follow all service manual guidelines and procedures; use appropriate torque specs; and please, for god sake, exercise a little common sense. Fuel is very flammable, and extremely hazardous, both to your health and the environment. Never bench test a fuel pump (attempting to make it pump while it is NOT submerged in fuel can cause serious injury and even death, so don't frikkin do it!)

The example vehicle is a 2006 Kawasaki Ninja 636 with approximately 40,000 miles. Parts and procedures may vary for different makes and models. Please consult your service manual for specifics. This took me about an hour or so from start to finish. I would put the difficulty level at about a 4; its not terribly hard or labor intensive, but it does require some finesse to separate the fuel pump assembly from the housing.

You will need the following tools:
4mm Allen wrench/socket/T-handle
5mm Allen wrench/socket/T-handle
10mm wrench (two of them, or a shallow 10mm 1/4" drive socket and ratchet)
7mm wrench
Phillips (+) screwdriver
Flat blade/common (-) screwdriver
A clean, flat, sturdy work space
A couple of rags or paper towels

*A pair of latex gloves is strongly recommended, fuel is very bad for your health and prolonged contact with bare skin is not recommended.

*This procedure is much easier to perform with a minimal amount of fuel in the tank, ideally less than 1/4 tank, the less the better.

The first step is to remove the fuel tank from the bike. Remove the seat to gain access to the rear tank mount bolt; loosen it, but don't remove it yet. Remove the 5mm Allen head bolt at the front of the fuel tank, and the two on the side that go through the frame. Raise and support the fuel tank. Unplug the 3wire connector for the fuel pump from the wiring harness, and disconnect the fuel hose at the quick-release connector either at the fuel pump or the other end of the hose at the throttle bodies. Once that is all done, finish undoing the rear tank mount bolt, and lift the tank away from the bike.

Next, place a towel or some other soft material down on your work bench to protect the paint, and place the tank upside down on the towel. There are 5 bolts with 10mm heads that secure the pump into the bottom of the tank. They are fastened with red locktite, so they take a bit of torque to break free. Remove those, and carefully slide the fuel sending unit from the tank. This is what that will look like once you get it out:

How To: Service Fuel Pump and Strainer-resizedimage_1331441046475.jpg

**From here on in, be very careful. The fuel tank sending unit is sold as a complete unit, individual parts are typically not sold separately so be careful not to damage anything**

Now its time to disassemble enough of the sending unit to expose the fuel strainer. You'll need to remove the two 7mm nuts (along with 2 washers) that secure the wires to the inside (wet side) of the housing, and place all 4 pieces in a very safe place (magnetic tray, spray paint/chemical lid, stuck to a piece of masking tape, somewhere they won't run away!). You'll also need to remove the two Phillips Head screws that secure the large white plastic baffle to the sending unit housing, place those in a very special and secure location as well. These are the two screws that need to come out:

How To: Service Fuel Pump and Strainer-2012-03-10_12-26-10_992.jpg

Now its time for the tricky part. That large white plastic piece needs to come off of the metal base, it slides up off of the long metal arms that you just removed the two Phillips Head screws from. I was able to use a Flat Head screwdriver to gently pry it apart, but be careful, you're fighting a rubber O-ring, and if either piece gets torn or damaged it will need to be replaced.

Once you get the base and the pump/baffle separated, you'll be able to see the strainer screen and oggle all the junk thats stuck in it. You can probably just blow all the crap off from there, but if its REALLY plugged up and replacing it is not an option (weather by budget or parts unavailability) then you'll need to clean it from the inside to blow all the debris out of the screen. To do that, you'll have to locate the white cap that holds the pump in place and separate it from the rest of the baffle. You'll need to (VERY CAREFULLY) spread the wings on the cap and slide it off the end:

How To: Service Fuel Pump and Strainer-resizedimage_1331440854948.jpg

Once that cap comes off, it will allow access to a rubber damper, the screen, and (if needed) the fuel pump itself can be removed at that point, if able to be sourced independently from the sending unit as a whole.

How To: Service Fuel Pump and Strainer-resizedimage_1331441023878.jpg

Here, you can see all the stuff that was stuck in the screen on my 06. The bike has just under 40k on the Odometer, and a majority of the debris was metal shavings, I assume they are left over from the manufacturing process as I have made a point of not sprinkling handfuls of aluminum shavings into my fuel tank with every fill up.

How To: Service Fuel Pump and Strainer-resizedimage_1331440834716.jpg
kryptos, Ninjanut, bobbehp and 1 others like this.

Setp one: Obtain 5-8 squares of clean, dry toilet paper.
Setp two: some prefer to neatly fold while others prefer the "wad" technique, but you need to condense the squares into a thicker unit of TP.

...do I really need to continue?
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post #2 of 15 Old 03-11-2012, 12:13 AM
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Oh look another AWESOMELY useful thread that should be stickied but will fall to the wayside in a forum lacking of appropriate administration.

Great job my friend!

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post #3 of 15 Old 03-11-2012, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MistressOfMayhem View Post
Oh look another AWESOMELY useful thread that should be stickied but will fall to the wayside in a forum lacking of appropriate administration.

Great job my friend!
Exactly mom.
Great how too as well mate

tinted screen, hel lines,intergrated tail light, rearset adjusters, K&N air filter, +4 advancer, -1 front, pazzo knock offs, ape cct, zip tie mod,07 shock + rear disk, 08 swingarm, vernhil rear line, 636 exhaust with dan moto cf can, Kleen air mod..

still lovin forever!
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post #4 of 15 Old 03-11-2012, 03:03 AM
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+3 should be sticky'ed
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post #5 of 15 Old 03-11-2012, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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I sent Lash a PM and an Electronic Mail Communication in hopes that maybe a couple of our how-to's will get moved to the appropriate forum.

Setp one: Obtain 5-8 squares of clean, dry toilet paper.
Setp two: some prefer to neatly fold while others prefer the "wad" technique, but you need to condense the squares into a thicker unit of TP.

...do I really need to continue?
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post #6 of 15 Old 03-11-2012, 07:35 PM
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Great write up Zoom. This is why we need someone to run this site and have a HOW TO THREAD. So useful imformation like this can be seen.

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post #7 of 15 Old 03-11-2012, 07:42 PM
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Is lash even on hear anymore? Can anybody move these to a sticky??

tinted screen, hel lines,intergrated tail light, rearset adjusters, K&N air filter, +4 advancer, -1 front, pazzo knock offs, ape cct, zip tie mod,07 shock + rear disk, 08 swingarm, vernhil rear line, 636 exhaust with dan moto cf can, Kleen air mod..

still lovin forever!
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post #8 of 15 Old 03-29-2012, 02:05 PM
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So how do you remove the pump from the tank? My pump doesn't want to just slide out and I feel that pulling too hard may damage something. Any help?

EDIT: Nvm. Just takes a little bit of force and maneuvering. Nothing broke haha.

Last edited by Moth; 03-29-2012 at 03:50 PM.
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post #9 of 15 Old 03-29-2012, 02:16 PM
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THIS NEEDS TO BE STICKIED!!! Thanks for the write up ZoomSplat!!!

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post #10 of 15 Old 03-29-2012, 02:23 PM
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Nice to see some people taking initiative!
Great Write up

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post #11 of 15 Old 03-29-2012, 03:44 PM
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Does the bike have an inline fuel filter as well, or does the strainer act as the same thing?

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post #12 of 15 Old 03-29-2012, 04:09 PM
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I may need this very info. My '06 still is not running.

Had an '06 636
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post #13 of 15 Old 04-03-2012, 11:24 AM
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Much gratitude for these steps. I just went through this procedure. Wasn't too difficult but there was lots of crud in the screen and the pump bowl. The main problem I had was disconnecting that 3 wire connector under the seat that goes to the fuel pump! Is there a special tool to disconnect that?

Now that it's all back together I actually got the bike started. It was a little hard to start but that's understandable since the tank and pump were completely drained. It certainly helped the "wont start" issue I posted about here and ran for probably 10 minutes. Started right up after that as well. Unfortunately once I got it all put back together and went down the block and back it died right when I got back to the driveway. It started up again enough to get 'er into the garage and died again. Still not certain about the pump. And at $255 (cheapest I'd seen so far but haven't really looked) for a replacement I'm not sure when I can afford to fix it.

Thanks again!

Had an '06 636
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post #14 of 15 Old 04-03-2012, 06:04 PM
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FWIW it may actually be fixed after all. My brother was able to take it around the block without incidence. Will have to give her a good shake down run soon to figure out if that was the problem or not. Once again, thanks for the excellent instructions...

Had an '06 636
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post #15 of 15 Old 04-20-2012, 05:40 AM
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Update:
Still running...

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