I originally posted this how-to on kawiforums.
I decided it was time to remove all the California smog crap off the bike and do the PAIR valve/KLEEN mod. I did NOT use block off plates however, instead I have a hose running to the crankcase vent to provide a vacuum on the crankcase. The idea is that a negative pressure in the crankcase actually helps the piston rings seal better and helps build a little horsepower by removing any positive pressure that builds in the crankcase while the engine is running. Some people also say this will help prevent the popping you get on deceleration after installing an after market exhaust. I haven't found that to be true tho.
I have had this mod on my bike now for over 3000 miles and have not had any issues with it. The bike runs great and is smoother and more powerful than when I fist bought it.
On with the pics!
I won't explain how to remove the gas tank or the air cleaner. If you are thinking about doing this mod, then you had better be able to figure that stuff out on your own (aka - read the service manual).
This first pic is an overall view after removing the air cleaner with everything in place as it came from the factory.
This is how the CA smog stuff looks in place.
First thing to do is remove the smog crap. The 2 lines on the left of this pic go to the bottom of the gas tank, on the right side. The short line coming off the charcoal canister (square box) goes to the PAIR valve and the long vacuum line coming off the separator (little round thing) goes to a vacuum port on the far right side of the throttle bodies.
Smog crap gone.
Next, you remove the PAIR valve.
Plug the vacuum ports on the throttle bodies. I used YELLOW vacuum caps to make them easier to identify. There are 3 ports to cap on the throttle bodies.
I used a brass T connector (you can also use plastic) that is 3/8" at each end. I installed this with 3/8" ID fuel hose and used hose clamps to make sure everything stays in place.
I then routed some more 3/8" ID fuel house from the T fitting and around the left side of the throttle bodies. I cut the stock crank vent hose short and used a 1/2" to 5/8" inline connector (closest that I could find) to go from the fuel hose to the larger crank vent hose. Again, hose clamps at all junctions to make sure the hoses stay put.
Then install vacuum caps on the vacated ports of the air cleaner and only 1 ports on the bottom of the gas tank, specifically the red labeled port. The blue labeled port is a vent that needs to remain open.
This picture of the gas tank shows both ports capped which is actually wrong. Be sure to NOT cap the blue port. The blue port is a vent that allows the gas tank to equalize with atmospheric pressure. If you block it, a vacuum is created inside the tank making it extremely difficult to open the gas cap. I reused one of the vacuum lines from the smog stuff and ran it from the vent to the left side of the bike with the other drain tubes.
Here is the finished product before reinstalling the air cleaner and gas tank.
Here is all the crap that was removed.
Parts wise, you will need to get the following, best bet would be Pep Boys but any auto parts store should have this stuff:
~ 1 T-fitting, brass or plastic, 3/8" at each end
~ Throttle body vacuum caps in yellow x3 - 1/8"
~ Red vacuum caps x2 on air box and gas tank - 1/4" (remember, use only ONE cap on the tank, red port ONLY)
~ Black vacuum caps on air box x2 - 3/8"
~ About 3 feet of 3/8" ID standard fuel hose (do NOT use fuel injection hose)
~ 1 5/8" to 1/2" hose connector, plastic or brass
~ 2 packs of hose hose clamps (4 to a pack usually, we need 7) good for up to 5/8"
~ zip ties
Linear Mode
