I thought that when people were mentioning this mod they were just taking the plates off. I figure if just that makes a difference, going through the trouble of removing the rod should do something worthwhile.
I'm nowhere near a dyno shop (middle of BFE Kansas) so what I was thinking is before anyone follows my lead, I would eat the shipping to send these once I'm done to someone & then they could dyno run them versus stock TBs. Everything comes down to real world numbers so then we would all know what it's really worth to do this.
I didn't get to tapping the holes last night as I couldn't find a suitable tap. I'll be leaving out to location 6am sharp tomorrow for work so even though I might be able to get on a public access computer while stuck in a motel at night, I won't be able to update this until I have overcome these two hurtles.
If anybody has ideas as to how I might go about this a better way let your voice be heard! I'm shoot'n from the hip here peeps. Here's a bit of progress I made last night.
Remove this small screw under the butterfly position sensor. It's a T-25 if I remember correctly.
Gently pry the control box off the shaft. This takes a little finesse.
There's a little white plastic e-clip around the shaft locking it in place.
There's a small rubber hose in between the two TB assemblies. Cut this horiziontally.
Then there's a small metal e-clip against the right TB assembly, a small screwdriver & patience will remove it from around the shaft.
File the rough spots on the shaft where the screws went through as these spots won't allow the shaft to pull out the TB holes.
As you slide the shaft out, try to catch as many little springs, washers & spacers as you can. Something went flying across my dining room, I hope I don't need it later!
Here you can see I used the highly scientific 't-shirt on lap' recovery method!
Now this is how throttle bodies should look as God intended.... No crap above the blades!
There's three 8mm bolts that connect the two Tb assemblies together. I thought I was going to have to remove the number two injector there's just enough space for it to unscrew. It won't come out so you can't loose it either! Also, take the vacuum hoses apart inbetween number two & three here.
As you easily pull the two assemblies apart get your third hand out & catch these two springs. In an attempt to not disrupt the sync, I didn't touch any adjustment screws.
Then you have this.
I re-assembled the assemblies a couple times double checking the sync. They still all snap close in one nice, sharp, loud click!
That's all the farther I made it last night, catch ya'll on the flip side!