ZX6R.com

Chaos · 06-12-2011, 11:10 PM

I can't take full credit for this how to as I found it on zx-10r.net written by hellsrazor. Figured I'd rewrite it following the steps I took. THIS IS ONLY FOR THOSE OF YOU USING AN AFTERMARKET SLIP-ON/FULL EXHAUST.

*Note: After attempting this thing numerous times and putting quite a bit of time and money into it I can't get it to work properly for my 2011 zx6r. Other people have also tried this to no avail. I'm going to mark this as a BETA til I can get my hands on a servo buddy and dissect it to see what's going on in there. Normally I don't beg for money, but to help me figure this out faster, feel free to donate to the cause by going to my website and clicking the yellow PayPal "donate" button on the right sidebar. Thanks for the help!

DIY Servo Remover (Currently in BETA)

Disclaimer: Neither myself nor zx6r.com are reliable for anything that goes wrong in your installation/modification. If any part of this how to seems out of your league you're better off getting help or finding someone else to do it.

Note: If you really want to have this done but are totally clueless about electronics PM me and I'll give you a price to do it for you. I won't charge labor, just supplies and shipping. You'll also have to send your servo or servo harness.

What you need:

Wire cutters & strippers

Soldering Iron & solder

Dremmel with grinder/sander and buffer (or something similar)

Heatshrink & torch/lighter (optional)

1/2 watt 220 ohm resistor (red, red, brown, gold)

1/2 watt 4.7k ohm resistor (yellow, purple, red, gold)

470 microfarad(uF) w/35v max capacitor

servo motor harness

epoxy

wire tape

Step 1:

If you are using the servo motor out of your bike remove it now (two screws and 2 harness plugs - yellowish and white).

Step 2:

Cut the harness from the servo motor. Depending on preference you can make the wires longer or shorter, I made mine longer, but sort of regret that.

You can cut the gray and white wires as they will not be used.

Step 3:

Following this schematic solder everything together.

Actual photo comparison: (the black line on the capasitor is ground and MUST be connected to the black wire. Resistors can go on either way as they are not polarity sensitive)

Step 4:

Now it's time to mix up some epoxy and submerge the circuit. Don't worry about being perfect, you'll have to grind it down and buff it once it dries. Just make sure there are no air bubbles as it could screw you up when you start grinding it down (as it did to me).

Step 5:

For extra protection i wrapped the circuit in wire tape. To prevent the circuit from bouncing around under the seat i used some of that 3M locking velcro you get with an EZpass.

Now just plug it in and viola! No more FI light!

Learn from my mistakes!
I could have made this thing significantly smaller and neater but was pressed on time. The epoxy job came out pretty crappy considering this was my first time working with the stuff. Ended up having to make a second trip to walmart to get another tube cause i ran into a few air pockets that opened up once i sanded down. I recommend making the circuit a little closer together. Trim the resistors if you need to. Making it smaller is a big plus. Also, when shopping for epoxy, try to get the stuff that comes with the mixing tray...the plastic box likes to melt...

rolledoats · 06-13-2011, 05:18 AM

great write up!

usdsk8er540 · 06-13-2011, 05:49 AM

+1. great writeup. will this work on the 05 636 as well or would it be different? if so, i may have to do this later this week.

thecarter0 · 06-13-2011, 05:59 AM

Do you have to grind it down? Or is it optional?

rolledoats · 06-13-2011, 06:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by usdsk8er540

+1. great writeup. will this work on the 05 636 as well or would it be different? if so, i may have to do this later this week.

should work from 05 to present

usdsk8er540 · 06-13-2011, 06:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rolledoats

should work from 05 to present

sick! im makin a trip to radio shack and wally-world this week!

Chaos · 06-13-2011, 07:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thecarter0

Do you have to grind it down? Or is it optional?

you don't HAVE to...but it'll look nicer and be easier to tape up

Chaos · 06-13-2011, 07:22 AM

Bad news...i got to test the bike out today, the FI light still comes on at higher RPMs. Not sure if this is a problem with only the 2011, or I screwed up with my capacitor size. It's def. 470uF but I may hav to limit it to 16v instead of 32v.

I need to check the schematic for my 2011's servo.

If you follow my it won't screw up ur bike, the worse thing that could happen is a blown capacitor. If someone wants to try it, test it without the epoxy and report back.

Any other electric gurus on here that can shed some light?

Chaos · 06-13-2011, 08:58 PM

Ok...so I have a feeling this is a problem with the newgen models (2011). It seems the FI light turns on intermittently...kinda weird really...sometimes i start it up its off, other its on. Sometimes i'll drive for a while go into high rpms, no FI light, others it'll turn on after riding for 5min.

Maybe i have a bad solder point that jiggles loose...hrmm...im 99.9% sure my schematic is right tho...if someone with a pregen does this can you let me know what your outcome is? thanks.

usdsk8er540 · 06-17-2011, 05:45 AM

did you get any of this figured out? like test a different capacitor or check your connections? i would like to do this but i dont really want my FI light coming on intermittently.

Chaos · 06-18-2011, 03:20 PM

I made up a new circuit. I think there is a problem with the newgen bikes. usdsk8er how good are you with electronics? If you know what your doing, would you mind helping out this how to? You'd just hav to make the circuit (just cut the wires in half) and see if it works without epoxying it. If it doesn't work you could just solder the servo back together.

In fact if anyone wants to try it and report back that'd be great it would give me more data to compare to.

If anyone is willing to donate their servo motor (pre-2011, no harness needed) I'll pay shipping via USPS flat rate. It would really help my research and get this how to situated.

usdsk8er540 · 06-19-2011, 06:34 AM

i will give it a shot. where did you find the schematic for the servo motor? if i could find one for my year bike i could look at it and see what i could do. just dont wanna go chopping the plugs off my servo motor and then not have it work. lol guess i could just splice in more wire if needed. might test it out with a temporary circuit board or something that i can take apart and redo without soldering. were you thinking that you needed a lower voltage capacitor or something? anyways, get at me about the schematic and i will see what i can do. thanks

Chaos · 06-19-2011, 08:17 AM

I was not able to find a schematic for the servo. I looked at the repair manual for my year bike and read what the outputs should be. I tore the servo apart though. Basically there are no resistors or caps. instead it looks like the circuit board has a built in voltage regulator. The upper part of the servo (where the cables connect) has 2 thin metal arms that contact either side of the regulator and that's how the bike knows what position the butterfly valve is in so it can compensate RPMs with distance to open/close.

I built a circuit on my bread board so i can just play around with it. I'm not 100% sure that it need more voltage...but maybe something to trick it into thinking it's working...I'll be taking a few readings from it when the FI light comes on today.

Let me know how you make out!