White smoke in air box

This is a discussion on White smoke in air box within the Mechanical and Technical forums, part of the ZX6R Forum category; I installed some driven block off plates, took the bike out and started it, the FI light came on (i don't think i used a ...

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Old 02-19-2012, 06:24 AM   #1
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White smoke in air box

I installed some driven block off plates, took the bike out and started it, the FI light came on (i don't think i used a big enough wire to jump the smog pump connection) , i rode it about a 3 mile and came home. i noticed the smell of burning oil, so i get off and look around. My oil fill cap is off...
I didn't think much of the oil cap being off( i checked the oil and it was at a reasonable level) so work on fixing the smog pump connection. as i lift the top of the air box off white smoke comes out.
does anyone know whats going on?

Also, is it absolutely necessary to have a Power Commander with block off plates ?
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:38 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dcook0 View Post
I installed some driven block off plates, took the bike out and started it, the FI light came on (i don't think i used a big enough wire to jump the smog pump connection) , i rode it about a 3 mile and came home. i noticed the smell of burning oil, so i get off and look around. My oil fill cap is off...
I didn't think much of the oil cap being off( i checked the oil and it was at a reasonable level) so work on fixing the smog pump connection. as i lift the top of the air box off white smoke comes out.
does anyone know whats going on?

Also, is it absolutely necessary to have a Power Commander with block off plates ?
I used a 20 ohm resistor to jump the connector. The switching valve coil resistance is 22.5 ohms which is why. I don't know if the ECU is looking for feedback or what, but so far every time I have done that mod and used resistors there is no FI code.
I can't be absolutely sure, but I doubt that having your cap off contributed to anything except the smell. However, that could affect crankcase pressure (not oil pressure). There are 2 vent lines: one goes from the crankcase to the valve cover and the other from the valve cover to the airbox. The airbox is usually under a negative pressure which pulls vapors out of the crankcase and top end. They are sucked in and burned off. I suspect that when you pulled the box off there was still unspent fuel/ oil vapors inside. It is really no big deal. On older carburated bikes it is quite often seen when they are shut off.
It is not necessary at all to have a PC for the block off mod. The emissions system does nothing to change the A/F mix. It only serves to help completely burn off hydrocarbons in the exhaust. Truthfully, it is the reverse: If you have a PC then the plates should be installed. Especially if you want a custom tune.
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Old 02-19-2012, 01:47 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEvilTwin View Post
I used a 20 ohm resistor to jump the connector. The switching valve coil resistance is 22.5 ohms which is why. I don't know if the ECU is looking for feedback or what, but so far every time I have done that mod and used resistors there is no FI code.
I can't be absolutely sure, but I doubt that having your cap off contributed to anything except the smell. However, that could affect crankcase pressure (not oil pressure). There are 2 vent lines: one goes from the crankcase to the valve cover and the other from the valve cover to the airbox. The airbox is usually under a negative pressure which pulls vapors out of the crankcase and top end. They are sucked in and burned off. I suspect that when you pulled the box off there was still unspent fuel/ oil vapors inside. It is really no big deal. On older carburated bikes it is quite often seen when they are shut off.
It is not necessary at all to have a PC for the block off mod. The emissions system does nothing to change the A/F mix. It only serves to help completely burn off hydrocarbons in the exhaust. Truthfully, it is the reverse: If you have a PC then the plates should be installed. Especially if you want a custom tune.

Thanks ET
When it comes to electrical components, im lost in the woods LOL
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Old 02-19-2012, 02:00 PM   #4
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will a 20 ohm 1/4 watt work?
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Old 02-19-2012, 02:35 PM   #5
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Oops, I mis spoke. I think I used 22 ohm 1/2 watt at 5%. The bands are red, red, black, gold. Pretty sure that is 22. I don't see where 2 ohms would make a difference, but I can't be certain. On mine (2007) the specification calls for 18-25 ohms when checking the switching valve. If the ECU is getting a feedback from it, then 20 ohm is still in the acceptable range.
FWIW, I cut the plug off and soldered the resistor to the wires and shrink-wrapped it.
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Old 02-19-2012, 02:42 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by TheEvilTwin View Post
Oops, I mis spoke. I think I used 22 ohm 1/2 watt at 5%. The bands are red, red, black, gold. Pretty sure that is 22. I don't see where 2 ohms would make a difference, but I can't be certain. On mine (2007) the specification calls for 18-25 ohms when checking the switching valve. If the ECU is getting a feedback from it, then 20 ohm is still in the acceptable range.
FWIW, I cut the plug off and soldered the resistor to the wires and shrink-wrapped it.
I just ordered a pack of 10 (20 ohm 1/2 w)
because no one will ship 1 to and Apo address.
So, if you know anyone who needs a resistor or 2 LOL
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Old 02-19-2012, 03:25 PM   #7
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Bah, shit man. I'd have mailed you one! Damn. Would have been the least I could have done for a serviceman.
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Old 02-19-2012, 03:33 PM   #8
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Its all good.
No worries.

Btw are the battery operated soldering irons good?
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Old 02-19-2012, 03:38 PM   #9
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Truthfully don't know, as I have never used one. Doubt it though. I use a butane one, or a plug- in.
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Old 02-19-2012, 03:58 PM   #10
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Cool, Thanks!
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