Oil advice & recommendations from oilman @ Opie Oils - Page 3 - ZX6R Forum
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post #31 of 410 Old 10-24-2012, 03:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rattyzx6 View Post
Hi Oilman, is there a forum that you're not on. You pop up on every forum I have been on since 2003 lol.

What oil do you recommend for a 2010 zx6r used on track. As an instructor I cover slowest of the novices to keeping up with the fastest of the fast group. I also do track days in the UK in December and Spain in the summer.

I am using Putoline Nanotech 10w40 and change it after every 5th day, and the filter every 10th day. I do about 150-200 miles a day.
With that kind of use, I'd go for the Silkolene Pro 4, Motul 300V or Redline 10w-40, changed at about the same rate you do now.

10w-40 Bike Engine Oil

If you're going through loads of oil, give us a shout and we can set up a trade deal for you.

We're getting some of the Putoline Nanotech tested at the moment, but the company doing it isn't the quickest. Millers have a range of Nano technology car oils and they are proving very popular (giving significant power increases by just changing the oil), but not sure if they will be doing a bike version.

Cheers

Tim

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Last edited by oilman; 10-24-2012 at 03:57 AM.
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post #32 of 410 Old 10-24-2012, 03:53 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by d1andonlyant View Post
Hi Oilman. This is really good timing because tomorrow im having a new (to me) gearbox and clutch put in my bike, so i guess this is the perfect time to switch oils as it will be completely empty

You can see all details of the bike in my signature. Its also at 22,xxx miles. Bike is thrashed literally every day, even if its only on the short journey to work. Dont worry, i dont do anything silly like rag the life out of it when its cold! Temp is normally about 65c this time of year. Have no idea what oil's in it now, it was changed at my local kawi dealer earlier this year. My main question is do i want to change to full synthetic or anything like that?? I really know nothing about different oils. Only hard road riding at the moment but i will be doing track days next year, and im not trying to sound like an arsehole, but i couldnt see me riding much, if any harder on the track anyway. I work shifts and see a whole lot of empty roads...

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

As the bike is getting some hard use, I'd probably go for a good 10w-40 synthetic, like the Silkolene pro4/Comp 4, Redline, Motul 7100/300V, Castrol Power 1 Racing or Shell Advance Ultra

10w-40 Bike Engine Oil

If your trip to work is short and you want to thrash it, going for the Silkolene Pro 4 Plus or Motul 300V 5w-40 might be a better option.

5w-40 Bike Engine Oil

Cheers

Tim

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post #33 of 410 Old 10-24-2012, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oilman View Post
Some things I can give my opinions on, other times companies get a little annoyed and threaten legal action (although I haven't been sued so far) and I would rather avoid that kind of hassle for a while.

Redline are great oils- full synthetic, ester based and I know we'd sell huge amounts if it wasn't for the pack sizes/pricing. Their gear oils are some of the best available, although not a lot of use to you guys.

Amsoil - Another good one. All their stuff is fully synthetic and like Redline, we'd sell loads if it wasn't for pack sizes and prices.

Mobil, Shell and Castrol - They make a whole range of oils, from basic to very good, you get what you pay for pretty much, easily available too. Perhaps they are a bit expensive depending on where you buy them. I think Mobil use ester in some of the US oils, making them a very good option. From what I have been told (so not sure if there is much truth in it), some of the US oils from those companies aren't the same or as good as the European versions, although I don't know if that applies to the bike oils.

I can't really discuss a lot of oils out of the US as there are a few I can't be very complimentary about (although there are a few that are good). It's because of the American general attitude to oil - buy cheap and change often. That means there are probably more mineral oils on the market than synthetics and even if a mineral oil is changed on a regular basis, a synthetic will give better protection, even if the service interval is a lot longer. A mineral oil might be fine with a big old lazy V8, but when you are revving a bike engine hard, you want to use something better.

Something that seems to come up on a regular basis with American oils is a high ZDDP content, and very little else is mentioned about the oil. Yes, you want some ZDDP to help with protection, but there are other ways (like synthetic basestocks and esters) that will give better protection than a mineral.

Cheers

Tim
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post #34 of 410 Old 10-24-2012, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oilman View Post
As the bike is getting some hard use, I'd probably go for a good 10w-40 synthetic, like the Silkolene pro4/Comp 4, Redline, Motul 7100/300V, Castrol Power 1 Racing or Shell Advance Ultra

10w-40 Bike Engine Oil

If your trip to work is short and you want to thrash it, going for the Silkolene Pro 4 Plus or Motul 300V 5w-40 might be a better option.

5w-40 Bike Engine Oil

Cheers

Tim
Thanks for the reply, you have given me some idea of what i want to buy, although when i looked at the list of oils on the site i was still pretty bewildered. There's silkolene PR0 4 10w40 full synthetic ester engine oil, and MOTUL 300V 100% synthetic double ester lubricant, which stand out the most. Would i be right in guessing the MOTUL is better because of the double ester (and price)? and is the fact 1 is called engine oil and the other's called lubricant just different ways of wording it and they both do the same job? I honestly have no idea about oil except its pretty much the life blood of an engine... Normally i'd be paying someone to change my oil.

Thanks again

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post #35 of 410 Old 10-24-2012, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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As much as the oil companies will not like me saying it, those two oils are very similar in results. Even though the Silkolene uses one ester and the Motul two, what they achieve is very similar in the end. Some companies use three esters (Millers), but they are all basically each companies offerings of the same thing - a top end race quality oil. A lot of people are very loyal to one brand or another and will not use one of the other oils. It may be for a reason, like they found their engine burned more of the Silkolene, so they go for the Motul, but there are just as many that say the same thing, but the other way round. If I could say 'this one is the best, go for that' I would, but there is nothing in it.

Cheers

Tim

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post #36 of 410 Old 10-24-2012, 02:15 PM
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Now we're on the same page

Thanks

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Ram Air Mod - Kleen Air Mod
Short Stacks Mod - MWR Filter
MHP Full Exhaust - PCIII W/Custom Map
SP Quickshifter - 2012 Shock
SS braided Lines - GPR V4 Damper
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post #37 of 410 Old 10-24-2012, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oilman View Post
It's not something that I'm familiar with so I've had a look at their data sheet.

http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_fil...707%20Logo.pdf

What concerns me is that a lot of the figures seem to cover a large band (like the viscosity at 100C can be 16.5-20.00cSt). To me that shows the oil you'd get isn't very consistent - with one service you might get some that is 16.5cSt at 100C and give you an increase in bhp, next time it might be 20cSt and you end up with less power than before. That explains the power increase you got compared to the Amsoil as they state 20.1cSt at 100C, so it could be that the Super 707 that you have is a lot thinner. In fact, an oil that is 16.5cSt at 100C is pretty close to a SAE40 anyway.

Cheers

Tim
See that is what I have always been curious about. The oil is labeled as a 20w40 but pours like a 0w oil. It is very thin in consistency it seems.

In the end, all you really have is body and mind.
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post #38 of 410 Old 10-26-2012, 11:57 AM
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Oil came this afternoon it's now in the bike cheers Oil man!

Black double bubble screen, Pro Grips black and green, Shorty levers, Moto gp carbon stubby can "Loud As Hell" Aluminium pegs with ZXR engraved in them, R&G Tail tidy, Green wheel rim tape, Bright white LED side lights, Decals removed, Rear seat cowel, Carbon petrol cap cover, Front and rear tinted lights, ZX6R Monster tank pad, Zip tie mod, Clean air mod
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post #39 of 410 Old 10-26-2012, 01:13 PM
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Hi I've got a question or five for you oilman. 2012 zx6r with 7000 km on it. First oil change at 1000 km with motul mineral oil as per some recommendations for the break in period. Im about to do a pre storage oil change and then change it again when season starts. Is this double change excessive and useless ? If not, should i invest the extra money in synthetic oil pre storage or just put some mineral in again while it sits then go synthetic ?Second question if you think that its a good idea to do a pre storage change, should i change the filter out as well, or just do that when it will get ridden again. Thanks.
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post #40 of 410 Old 10-27-2012, 04:04 AM
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Originally Posted by sparkybp View Post
Hi I've got a question or five for you oilman. 2012 zx6r with 7000 km on it. First oil change at 1000 km with motul mineral oil as per some recommendations for the break in period. Im about to do a pre storage oil change and then change it again when season starts. Is this double change excessive and useless ? If not, should i invest the extra money in synthetic oil pre storage or just put some mineral in again while it sits then go synthetic ?Second question if you think that its a good idea to do a pre storage change, should i change the filter out as well, or just do that when it will get ridden again. Thanks.
Just change the oil for storage there is no need to change it a second time when its time to ride again.

As for the filter it wont hurt it by putting a new one on.

Black double bubble screen, Pro Grips black and green, Shorty levers, Moto gp carbon stubby can "Loud As Hell" Aluminium pegs with ZXR engraved in them, R&G Tail tidy, Green wheel rim tape, Bright white LED side lights, Decals removed, Rear seat cowel, Carbon petrol cap cover, Front and rear tinted lights, ZX6R Monster tank pad, Zip tie mod, Clean air mod
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post #41 of 410 Old 10-27-2012, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Fletch View Post
Just change the oil for storage there is no need to change it a second time when its time to ride again.

As for the filter it wont hurt it by putting a new one on.
Tx but thats not detailed enough bro. So change the oil pre storage only but should it be changed to synthetic or mineral for another little while? Thanks
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post #42 of 410 Old 10-27-2012, 10:41 AM
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Tx but thats not detailed enough bro. So change the oil pre storage only but should it be changed to synthetic or mineral for another little while? Thanks
synthetic will be fine mate

Black double bubble screen, Pro Grips black and green, Shorty levers, Moto gp carbon stubby can "Loud As Hell" Aluminium pegs with ZXR engraved in them, R&G Tail tidy, Green wheel rim tape, Bright white LED side lights, Decals removed, Rear seat cowel, Carbon petrol cap cover, Front and rear tinted lights, ZX6R Monster tank pad, Zip tie mod, Clean air mod
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post #43 of 410 Old 10-27-2012, 02:12 PM
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synthetic will be fine mate
Does everyone agree with this statement?

If your going to do your first year's winter storage and your bike has 7000 km on the clock, you may as well change the oil to synthetic and also change the filter right before storage and then ride next year with that same oil and filter?
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post #44 of 410 Old 10-28-2012, 07:30 AM
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Engine type: I'm not sure how to answer this one..
Performance modifications: K&N race filter, akrapovic slip on, (Planning over the winter gutting the cats and doing a PCIII
Driving style: I do about half and half cruising through town ride as well as some agressive riding as well.


I am currently using Amsoil 10W-40 full synth. with a Hi-flo oil filter. I change my oil at 3000 regardless, would like to know if this is an ideal oil for what I am running and what I do.


THANKS OIL MAN!
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post #45 of 410 Old 10-28-2012, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by sparkybp View Post
Does everyone agree with this statement?

If your going to do your first year's winter storage and your bike has 7000 km on the clock, you may as well change the oil to synthetic and also change the filter right before storage and then ride next year with that same oil and filter?
I'm telling you it will be ok mate, I've just changed my oil and stored it away for the winter.
I will take it out of storage April next year and ride it until its time for another oil change at 2-3K depending how hard I ride it.

Black double bubble screen, Pro Grips black and green, Shorty levers, Moto gp carbon stubby can "Loud As Hell" Aluminium pegs with ZXR engraved in them, R&G Tail tidy, Green wheel rim tape, Bright white LED side lights, Decals removed, Rear seat cowel, Carbon petrol cap cover, Front and rear tinted lights, ZX6R Monster tank pad, Zip tie mod, Clean air mod
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