05-06 brake master fix inc part list - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 06-21-2014, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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05-06 brake master fix inc part list

ok, there has been enough questions asked, and info given to make a thread on how to correct the mushy brake lever, and losing pressure of the stock 05-06, 14mm radial master cylinder. the best upgrade is stainless lines from one of the major players, (i prefer spiegler).

yes, you can opt for a newer 07-current model zx6r 16mm radial master, which will push more fluid and give more brake feel. but, you have to buy a new brake lever too.

yes, you can opt for the r6 oem brembo 16mm radial master, which will push more fluid, and give more brake feel. and you have to buy their lever too.

yes, you can spend BIG BUX and buy a high end master system, and their levers.

you can upgrade calipers, to further upgrade the system as well. more added cost.

all of this is not required to get a good lever feel.

you can rebuild your 05-06 master in about an hour yourself, for a little over 60.00 in parts, and basic tools, and mechanical ability.

here is your parts list needed from kawasaki

new master rebuild kit p/n 43020-0012 list 45.93
new o-ring for resivor elbow 92055-0741 list 2.80
new elbow cover seal 49016-1147 list 4.29
new elbow for resivor 13159-1061 list 8.86

both the rebuild kit, and the o-ring are updated parts, you may opt to re-use the elbow and cover seal but, for the price and peace of mind, i replaced them.

this all will be, 61.88 plus tax, at the local dealer, or you can call Robby at full throttle motorsports in lansing, mi. 800-393-2600, or 517-646-9850.
if he gets enough interest he will stock these as a kit, and send them to you direct.

you will need a bottle of new brake fluid, (dot 4), a set of snap ring pliers, an 8mm end wrench (to break bleeders open and close, while bleeding the brakes.) 2 empty bottles to catch brake fluid when bleeding, and about 36" of clear hose to put on the bleeders (18" on each caliper). to watch while bleeding. and standard tools to remove brake lever and master from bars. lots of paper towels, and brake cleaner.

if you want to remove the master and do it on a bench (easier than on the bike). you will need to replace 4 crush washers on your brake lines to the master (4 if you have a dual line system, please count before you start, or just plan on buying more than you need, in case you miss count, or lose one or three.) (dont forget to order them, you cannot re-use the crush washers) part number 43067-001 for 1.42 ea.


step one, bleed the sytem dry by opening the bleeders on the caliper, and pumping the brake lever till all the fluid is out of the master resivor and lines. wrap paper towels around any body work to keep fluid off, brake fluid will remove paint if not cleaned and removed from painted surfaces quickly.

loosen the brake line bolt to the master, and remove brake hose/hoses from master and wrap them in paper towel to absorb left over fluid, (yes, it will keep leaking even if you bled it all out).

remove the master resivor hose from the master elbow, again, paper towel is your friend.

remove the brake lever from the master.

remove the brake switch plug wires from the brake switch on the master.

remove the master from the bars.

remove the rubber boot from the master plunger that goes into the brake lever. this exposes the snap ring that must be removed to get to the guts of the master that you are replacing.

remove the snap ring, pull out the inner piston and oring assembly. what you may find is a nasty thick glob of what looks like grease but, it is thickened brake fluid causing your sealing issues, fluid issues, and lever issues. clean this all out with brake fluid, and dry it. make sure you blow through the elbow, and get all small orrifices cleaned.

open the new master kit, notice you have to put the rubber seals on the piston yourself. they are different sizes, and need to go on the correct way, look at the old piston to confirm you are installing these CORRECTLY. work at them slowly, they are tight, you dont want to distort or tear them IN ANY WAY.

once you have the piston seals on, put a little clean brake fluid on the orings to make install and sealing better. install the new plunger, spring, and piston into the bore of the master. install the new snap ring, and the hard part is DONE.

next remove the seal from the elbow, and it's snap ring, remove the elbow, and the elbow oring, and reinstall those new parts, in reverse order.

install the master on to the bars, the lever, resivor hose, the brake lines and configure everything, BEFORE TIGHTENING EVERYTHING DOWN, for the final tighten. make sure to hook your brake light switch wires back on the switch.

once everything is routed, and you are all set, make sure you tighten the brake line banjo bolt with NEW crush washers to oem spec (see your manual).

now fill the resivor with new clean fluid, put a clear hose on the master bleeder, with the hose going into a holding bottle to hold the fluid to dospose of properly later. start bleeding the master first. pump the master, hold the lever, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, and then release the lever and pump up again. it will take a bit of pumping to get the master "primed" because it is ENTIRELY EMPTY from you cleaning it out before the piston install.

once you start getting solid fluid into the hose, close the bleeder on the master, and put the hoses and bottles to hold the bled fluid, on to the calipers once again. bleed the left side (as you are sitting on the bike) first, till no air bubble show up. then go to the right side doing the same. keep and eye one the fluid in the resivor, DO NOT LET IT GET TOO LOW, OR YOU WILL BE BLEEDING EVERYTHING AGAIN.

bleed the master one more time, bleed each caliper one more time, making sure you have a strong solid lever, and no air bubbles when bleeding.

at this point, you should have ALOT BETTER LEVER FIRMNESS, AND FEEL.

i have done this to two 05-06 masters, and with the updated piston kit, the master is very simlar to the 16mm masters on the newer bikes. the lever is firm, not mushy, and holds its pressure like it should. no more pumping them up or bleeding to go for a ride.

even with the stock tokico calipers... with good lines, good pads ( i prefer carbonne lorraine c59 pads), rebuilt master bled well, with good fluid (i prefer motul rbf600 dot4), the stock calipers and master will do a great job. i use this set up on our track bikes, and i can one or two finger brake, from 150 mph, to 75-85 mph at our home track from the front straight, to corner one with no issues on lever feel, fluid, or brake fade.

hope this helps those that may not want to replace the ENTIRE brake system, to get rid of the mushy master/lever feel that the 05-06 are "known for". it really isnt as bad as it is made out to be on the internet, and it can be fixed quickly and inexpensively. Ski

Last edited by skidooboy; 06-21-2014 at 04:18 PM.
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post #2 of 17 Old 06-21-2014, 01:30 PM
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Nice post. Thanks for the info.

edit: Makes me wonder if my 43020-0001 that I got last week is the old version.

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post #3 of 17 Old 06-21-2014, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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the 43020-0001 is the part number in the fische/computer but, when you order it, the part number should supercede to the new updated number 43020-0012. did you get the part yet? do you know the number you recieved, or they ordered? Ski
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post #4 of 17 Old 06-21-2014, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skidooboy View Post
the 43020-0001 is the part number in the fische/computer but, when you order it, the part number should supercede to the new updated number 43020-0012. did you get the part yet? do you know the number you recieved, or they ordered? Ski
An excellent point sir. Went to the tool room to verify the number. it is the -0012 label.

So now for the testing. I have the rebuilds now with the stock tokicos and also a couple sets of nissins on the shelf for testing. (I run the nissins on my 10r as well)

edit: Curious to see if this works for both rides now.

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Last edited by Dragone; 06-21-2014 at 02:35 PM.
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post #5 of 17 Old 06-21-2014, 04:11 PM
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Much thanks ski....( neede some part numbers myself for future ) should cover all questions and searches.
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post #6 of 17 Old 07-14-2014, 11:24 PM
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You have no idea how timely your post is for me. Just in the last 30 days I have been having issues with the formerly excellent front brakes. I was getting tired of bleeding the brakes every time I went for a ride and so tried to search for solutions. Thanks to your post I have a lot more knowledge and even a parts list. Thank you very much.
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post #7 of 17 Old 07-15-2014, 03:04 AM
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post #8 of 17 Old 07-15-2014, 05:29 AM
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Good info, and I am sick of seeing all the posts about the mushy 05/06 brake lever to which I always respond with a blurb about the known issue from Kawi which they addressed with a redesigned piston, bla bla bla.

One thing, though. Pretty sure the 05/06 levers are interchangeable with the later model 07+ levers, no?

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post #9 of 17 Old 07-15-2014, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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no they are not interchangeable. black master 07+ has one lever, brown master 05-06 has a different one. newer master is 16mm, older is 14mm. levers have a different actuator length. Ski
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post #10 of 17 Old 07-15-2014, 01:24 PM
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Great write up!!!
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post #11 of 17 Old 09-08-2014, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reed12b View Post
You have no idea how timely your post is for me. Just in the last 30 days I have been having issues with the formerly excellent front brakes. I was getting tired of bleeding the brakes every time I went for a ride and so tried to search for solutions. Thanks to your post I have a lot more knowledge and even a parts list. Thank you very much.
Oh man I have the same problem…. Did you fix the issue with the rebuild kit?
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post #12 of 17 Old 09-08-2014, 06:30 PM
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Yes, it was pretty easy. The only extra tool I had to purchase was a set of snap ring pliers. I don't think you could do the job without those. And I had two full track days without any brake issues at all. I don't see a need to change master or calipers, I have EBC pads and new brake lines. No problems with fade or lack of feeling. Just my opinion.
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post #13 of 17 Old 09-08-2014, 07:36 PM
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So timely....as i was about to buy a newer model master cylinder....
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post #14 of 17 Old 09-08-2014, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reed12b View Post
Yes, it was pretty easy. The only extra tool I had to purchase was a set of snap ring pliers. I don't think you could do the job without those. And I had two full track days without any brake issues at all. I don't see a need to change master or calipers, I have EBC pads and new brake lines. No problems with fade or lack of feeling. Just my opinion.
Cool. I assume it's pretty straight forward. How long did it take you to get the job done? I need get the rebuild kit from the website asap.
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post #15 of 17 Old 06-30-2015, 01:02 PM
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thanks for this great post skidooboy.
Since i bought my bike (2 years ago) i have this problem with the mushy lever.
It feels mushy and the pressure point moves neraly every time i pull the brakes.
Sometimes i can pull it allmost to the bar, and half a minute later i pull the brakes 1-2cm, with great breaking power, no mushy feel, just like they should be. Next time i hit the brake i pull the lever straight to the bars and clamp my fingers while braking with 2 fingers.

So i found your thread, bought the rebuild kit and rebuild my master cylinder yesterday.
i worked slowly, and tripple checked everything, bled the brakes twice and was ready to go.

Test rode it today, same mushy lever, same moving pressure point.
I'm a bit disappointed, maybe i have to spend more money on a 07 or r6 master cylinder, maybe my stainless lines (came with the bike) are the problem.


Thanks for thi great post anyway.
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