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2013 636 track base suspension setup

5K views 13 replies 9 participants last post by  kk2hernandez 
#1 ·
#2 ·
The short version:
Kawasaki ZX-6R 636 track settings
Forks:
Pull through height above top yoke: 9mm
Spring Preload: 11 turns (from fully anti-clockwise)
Compression damping: 5.5 turns (from fully clockwise)
Rebound damping: 4.5 turns (from fully clockwise)
Shock:
Height: 8mm spacer on top shock mount
Preload: 6 turns (in from stock position – see manual)
Compression: 2.25 turns (from fully clockwise)
Rebound: 1 turns (from fully clockwise)
 
#4 ·
While that has merit to it I don't feel it is completely true. If you take a completely stock bike, and are trying to get it to be as good as possible for the track, I think you'll get to your final set-up faster if you follow the basic advice flow of someone else's track set-up. For instance I would compare the above settings to the stock settings on the 636 and see how they changed, that will at least point me in the right direction of where I need to go from stock.
 
#6 ·
Can one of you guys explain this 8mm spacer to me. Where do I get one and where exactly on the shock does it mount? I just put in an Ohlins MK2 so I am familiar with the shock mounts but I don't understand where a spacer would go to make the bike taller?

This article described 100 % of how I feel about this bike and the issues I'm having.
 
#8 ·
from thread in main forum. Ski

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedAndBlack View Post
wow. very interesting article. This is 100 % how I feel about this bike. Everything is great from the smoothness of the shifting, clutch, and powerband, but I feel the bike is just on egg shells cause of the bottoming out suspension.

What is an 8MM spacer though? I don't understand where it goes or where to buy one. I absolutely want to try this modification out.

with your ohlins you have adjustable ride height so, you shouldn't need the spacer. just read the manual, and lengthen your shock with the ride height adjuster. measure your stock shock eye to eye (center to center) and then measure and adjust the ohlins to 8mm longer than stock. viola, you have your ride height adjusted. if your ride height adjuster on the ohlins isn't long enough for 8mm, find the correct thickness shim, and shim the top clevis mount to get the overall length needed.

but, in a nutshell... they put a spacer in the top of the rear shock mount clevis to increase the ride height in the rear. you can buy shims, or use washers, or buy the 6mm thick adjustable nut from Kawasaki so you can have an adjustable rear ride height tool at your disposal for fine tuning. the nut part number from kawi is:
92015-1953



see here for a tutorial, it is on a different year but, same principal Adjusting rear ride height (how to) http://zx6r.com/mechanical-technical/56348-adjusting-rear-ride-height-how.html

Ski
 
#9 ·
We set my sag this summer before my first track day on the bike and left all damping alone. On one very slight downhill right I was using all but maybe 25mm of the fork slider. Not sure how much travel that leaves. Was going to increase forks comp damping last track day but the layout changed and didn't use that turn and I used all but maybe 50mm of slider so i left the forks alone. I guess if I extend the forks all the way and measure how much slider there is and then subtract 4.7 inches for travel I can see how close I am coming to bottoming. Does that make sense or maybe extend fork and measure to where zip tie moved to and subtract from 4.7 to get travel used? Thanks.
 
#11 ·
PS you have aftermarket fork cartridges and rear shock. the set up and clickers will not be anywhere near those listed. those listed are for bone stock nothing done to the unit.

I have racetech front internal set up from Jason Farrell, at Farrell performance. (he figured out something with them). and a JRI rear triple clicker shock. I could not use that set up listed either.

my base set up for geometry is: front 4mm tubes showing over the clamps, rear shock set short with a 6mm shim (347-348mm total length). I am still working with the clickers to get comfortable, and get better tire wear.

the thing changes direction on a dime. the front seems very close, the rear is vague feeling, and needs some work.

too bad track days, and racing are all but over, up here. start over fresh next spring. Ski
 
#12 ·
I am more concerned with the basic geometry. I am using stock fork tubes and my front end height is drastically different than what this article recommends.
 
#13 ·
what front height are you using? I believe you have fork extender caps on you forks too correct?

having more sharing of info on race set ups, can only help all of us in the smaller kawi race bike brotherhood.

if you prefer pm's on subject I totally understand. willing to trade info and settings. Ski
 
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