DIY: 2013+ Syncing Throttle Bodies - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 12-20-2014, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
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DIY: 2013+ Syncing Throttle Bodies

DIY: 2013+ Syncing Throttle Bodies (cause I don't know about the setup on the previous generation models):

So, the information here is purely for educational purposes and I am in no way responsible for what ever you do to your bike. All that legal jargon, etc.

FYI. This is photo intensive cause you know... detail.

I have struggled to find a detailed throttle bodies sync for the zx6r, and those who are following my 2013 636 Vibration thread can see that I've been playing with it. The main reason for this is because I have found a few things that I feel are important for those who plan to do a throttle bodies sync on their bike (and most of these are for the 2013+ 636). I am in no way a genius at this, I've been performing the sync under trial and error, so if anyone has corrections or suggestions, please put them forward to help everyone.

A lot of issues will relate specifically with the 2013+ 636, so please bear in mind that it is not this hard on every bike. Models will change, as will their layouts.

Things you will need (essentials to the sync):
  • Tiny flat head screw driver (less than 4mm) that is less than 10cm total length. Make sure it has a thin shaft - none of that security bit bullshit.
    You can get away with this: but prepare for painful fingers:

    I used something more like this (and it only just fit for Cylinder #2):

    Or get this if you can afford it (the proper tool they recommend):
  • Vacuum Gauge
    You can go all out and get a proper set, I just picked up a Carbtune (uses cm Hg as its measuring scale):
  • IMPORTANT: 3 way 5mm (external diameter) hose fitting (the one fish tanks use). Absolutely friggin necessary for syncing which is not included in the Carbtune package.
    or

Option stuff that could make your life way easier:
  • Needle nose pliers (seriously, so worth it)
  • Flashlight - like a powerful LED one
  • Quarter to Half a tank of fuel. A full tank is heavy and will spill. A lighter tank is easier to work with.
  • OEM extension hose for the fuel tank - frees up room, but they are like $120. (edit: these are about 1m long, not the 15-20cm you find on ebay. Though I am considering purchasing one and chopping it up to make a proper one)
  • PCV and Laptop to monitor RPMs - for accurate rev monitoring. I didn't bother after a while. Depends on what you are actually trying to accomplish.
  • A roof or a rack with a piece of string hanging just above the bike - to hang the Carbtune off - see photos for what I had to do.

Seriously don't bother starting the sync without the essential tools. The nice to haves just make it easier or more accurate.


Instructions:
  • 1. Warm up the bike
Most people say to take the bike for a decent ride so everything is warmed up. I agree, BUT, the bike and its engine will be hot. When I'm lazy, I'll just let the bike warm up with everything hooked up - but I seriously don't plan to accomplish much when I don't do a proper warm up.

Conclusion: Take the bike for spin, let it cool down enough to not burn you. Then commence.

  • 2. Put the bike on a rear stand
This is to get the bike upright. I have sync'd with the bike on it's side stand, and there is a slight difference but not much. The biggest thing you will notice is that: with the bike on a stand, you can easily access everything because the tank is not leaning.

Conclusion: Get a rear stand, paddock bobbins (8mm) if you don't have them, and get that bike upright.

  • 3. Take the fairings, seat, tank, airbox off and get to the throttle bodies
I really don't want to describe this step, so I won't.
There are enough posts about how to get that stuff off.
But, word of advice, actually take the tank off the bike, don't just prop it back. This will make your life a lot easier when trying to figure out where everything is. Also, disassemble your airbox properly. Don't just pull it off - check the filter condition, and learn how to put it back on properly because you will do this quite a few times.
You should see this:


  • 4. Set up Carbtune
Just follow their instructions.
Add the 3-way fitting to one of the hoses before the damper (on the short side). This is for Cylinder 4:


  • 5. Take off Throttle Body plugs
On the front of the throttle bodies (facing the bike), you will see 3x of these black plugs on Cylinders 1, 2, 3:


Pull them off (using the needle nose pliers, but don't damage them) and DON'T LOSE THEM. Put them somewhere safe.


  • 6. Hook up Cartune hoses
You'll notice Cylinder 4 doesn't have a plug. It has a sensor hooked up instead. Hence Step 4. Don't bother with syncing if you haven't put the 3 way fitting onto the hose. That sensor does the same thing you're about it do, and monitors the amount of air coming through. If you disconnect it, the bike will fault and won't run smoothly. And you want all 4 cylinders hooked up cause they all change with each adjustment.


Hook up the other hoses to each plug. Make it clear which hose is hooked to which Cylinder #, just so you can put them in corresponding spots when you hook them onto the Carbtune.
Should look like this when complete:


  • 7. Plug Airbox AIS feed
You don't need to remove the AIS. Just plug this hole on the base of the airbox. Just use tape unless you have a block off kit, like Ivans, where you can use their plug.


  • 8. Locate the Throttle Body Adjustment Screws
Before putting the Airbox back on, locate the adjustment screws.
From the manual:

This looks easy to get to with the airbox off and tank out of the way. But once you put it all on, you will swear and struggle more than you ever thought you would.
This is the view you may see:



  • 9. Put the bike back together
Word of advise. Cylinder 2's adjustment screw is near fucking impossible to get to with the airbox and tank back on. If you don't believe me, put it back on and try and get to it. Go on. I'll wait...
Now that you've realised how fucking impossibly cramped the area is, I recommend you grab your screw driver and put it into the screw before you put the airbox and tank back on. Get it to sit in a spot where it won't fall out, but where you can feel it has a firm grasp and can turn the screw. This way, once everything is back on, you can adjust cylinder 2 first,without having to search for it.

This is the view:


This is Cylinder 1:


This is Cylinder 2 (insert whatever joke you want here):


Once you have that set up, put the bike back together properly. Move the hoses to the side and run them in a way that won't squish or get them caught under anything. If you want, you can hook up the Carbtune before you put the airbox and tank back on so you know which hose is for which cylinder.

Note: The way you put the airbox on (properly whether you've disassembled it and put it back on properly, or whether you were a lazy fuck, and took the whole box off, and just pushed it back on, will determine how accurate the sync results are.

Should start to look like this:


As you can see, the position of the Carbtune is why I recommend doing this under a roof, where you can hang it off something to see it, and keep it out of the way. The Carbtune is super sensitive to lean, so it's suppose to hang from the clip on the top of the unit.

Also follow the instructions about how to run the hoses and stuff.

Once the airbox is back on securely, put the tank back on. You'll need to prop the tank back during the sync unless you have the extension hose.

  • 10. Turn the bike on and let it warm up again
I don't know any universal rule, but I'll get the bike to at least 65 degrees Celsius BUT, you will be running the bike so you are limited on time and how long you can sync before you start overheating the bike.

Don't walk away. Watching the Carbtune results is pretty interesting. Each blip from the throttle will pretty much reset the system. You have to keep blipping during the sync.

Note: Don't prop the tank yet. Your fuel pump can't handle the stress of being half submerged, and if you have a full tank, prepare for fuel on the ground.

  • 11. Start Syncing
Now is the time to prop the tank back. I used a tie down strap:


Notice the available space to work on have been reduced to this? Yeah, have fun!


There are a lot of different pieces of advise on the actual syncing process.
The general list of steps is:
  • Blip
  • Look for cylinders that aren't aligned on Vacuum Gauge
  • Adjust screw for that cylinder.
    Clockwise = More Air and higher bars, Counter clockwise = Less Air and lower bars
  • Don't completely tighten the screws
  • Blip
  • Re-adjust
  • Lather, rinse, repeat.

The general thing is to blip after every change. You generally won't see changes instantly till after a blip.

Some people will say adjust it at idle, then raise the revs to highway cruising speed (say 6000rpm), hold it at 6000rpm and adjust screws, blipping in between and stuff to keep it resetting. I did this and it's a long process. I have found a lot of different things on this and more input about this process is appreciated.

This is mine at idle:


  • 12. Repeat and Adjust
So yes, keep doing it for as long as it takes to get it within a sync you are happy with. You should notice a smoother engine noise if your sync was off.

You won't be able to get them all perfectly aligned because the bars on the Carbtune are all fluctuating.

Note: Each time you shut your bike off, put the tank down. You will have troubles starting up (engine will fire and die instantly) after a long period with the tank propped up. Best way to get around this - no clue. I tried priming the tank multiple times before starting, but it didn't change. I just had to let the tank sit properly for 10 minutes.

I settled for this. I could do a lot better, but it was like 40, and in the sun. No.


  • 13. Finish and pack up

Once you are happy. Turn it all off. Disconnect the hoses and put the plugs back on. Put the bike back together properly, making sure all the connections are back on properly.

Take your time. and Enjoy the hopefully noticeable and improved results from your bike.


Done.

Feedback appreciated. Esp if I missed anything, or if there's more info to add.

Last edited by bobbehp; 12-21-2014 at 12:22 AM.
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post #2 of 19 Old 12-20-2014, 06:28 AM
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VerY well done fuck that though lol

At least it's not a 2007-2008
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post #3 of 19 Old 12-20-2014, 07:55 AM
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I nominate this thread for a sticky.
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post #4 of 19 Old 12-20-2014, 08:05 AM
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Nicely done. AND you did it in the blazing sun!
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post #5 of 19 Old 12-20-2014, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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VerY well done fuck that though lol
I swear this DYI is less of a DIY, and more of a "don't bother trying to DIY, see how hard it is, give up and go cry in the corner" post.

It's not too hard tbh, but it's very time consuming and tedious.
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post #6 of 19 Old 12-20-2014, 11:30 PM
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Awesome write up!!!! Synced a lot of carbs and throttle bodies in my day I feel your pain!

I do miss the carb days when you could just run a longer fuel line. I think I have an idea to make a fuel line extension for the 2013 though.
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post #7 of 19 Old 12-21-2014, 12:18 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Crashz28 View Post
Awesome write up!!!! Synced a lot of carbs and throttle bodies in my day I feel your pain!

I do miss the carb days when you could just run a longer fuel line. I think I have an idea to make a fuel line extension for the 2013 though.
Thanks.

Totally interested in your idea.

I couldn't find the fitting ends on the hose at any local hose fitting dealer (e.g. Pirtek):


If I could get those two ends, you can make the rest up yourself. Would just have to prime multiple times to fill the hose up before starting.

Couldn't even find the male end from the tank at Pirtek...

Edit: having though about it, you could buy a cheap normal hose, cut the ends off and make your own?
They are like $20 off ebay.
Would just need a couple decent hose clamps to secure it on properly.
Am now considering this option. Was this close to what you were thinking?

Last edited by bobbehp; 12-21-2014 at 12:24 AM.
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post #8 of 19 Old 12-21-2014, 06:13 AM
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awesome writeup, attention to detail, and great info! Thank you for posting.

Mayhaps a sticky?
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post #9 of 19 Old 12-21-2014, 12:23 PM
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This was very interesting, Call me stupid for asking but why would someone need/want to do this on a fairly new bike?

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post #10 of 19 Old 12-21-2014, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PainfullySlo View Post
awesome writeup, attention to detail, and great info! Thank you for posting.

Mayhaps a sticky?
Do I do the sticky? I haven't started many threads. So not sure how to...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Pcervant136R View Post
This was very interesting, Call me stupid for asking but why would someone need/want to do this on a fairly new bike?
I have huge vibration issues with my bike. So I've been syncing the throttle bodies in case they were causing it.
Long ass story here:
2013 636 vibration issue
TL,DR; new bike vibrates and I still haven't found the cause after 6 months and prob $1000 spent on replacing stuff and having dealers look at it.

You generally shouldn't need to sync throttle bodies unless you have an older bike that sounds like it's idling a bit rough, has uneven engine noises but performance is fine, and if the bike vibrates. Or if you're super keen on the best possible performance cause you've changed a whole bunch of stuff over like new high flow air filter, new velocity stacks, etc
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post #11 of 19 Old 12-21-2014, 09:24 PM
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Do I do the sticky? I haven't started many threads. So not sure how to...
Mods will have to do it for you but it is definitely worth a sticky. Awesome write up man, I realize the level of pain in the ass this is but I like challenging projects/maintenance work on my bike so you have inspired me to do this. Thanks for the write up!
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post #12 of 19 Old 12-23-2014, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by itsmy04wrx View Post
Mods will have to do it for you but it is definitely worth a sticky. Awesome write up man, I realize the level of pain in the ass this is but I like challenging projects/maintenance work on my bike so you have inspired me to do this. Thanks for the write up!
No problem dude.

Worst feeling when you think you have everything ready, and you're all keen but it turns out you don't actually have everything you need. Happened to me the first time I tried to sync, didn't have that 3 way fitting, and tried to sync 3 cylinders at a time by moving that air flow sensor around. Didn't really work tbh.

I'm honestly not sure how similar the different generation models are, but I would think that the 09-12 gen is the same process as the 13+, and that the pre-09 models would have a slightly easier time syncing due to their layout.

The hardest thing about all this is really the available work space. You spent more time looking for those damn screws than you do actually syncing and adjusting.

I do wish it was a bit more like a Triumph. The Daytona 675 is electronically controlled, so if you use a Tuneboy, you can actually see the sensor values and make changes through the ECU! Does remove the challenge, but man, that is an easy setup.
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post #13 of 19 Old 01-11-2015, 07:46 PM
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Holy hell where was this write up when I was syncing my throttle bodies? This write up is AMAZING. My bike is a 2010 and nowhere in the manual does it say anything about adding a T to connect the vacuum line for cylinder 4. Is it in the manual for 2013s and newer? Makes me wonder if my bike is synced properly but everything seemed to work out when I did it.

Let me tell ya it's no joke when bobbehp talks about how much of a PITA it is to get to those flat head adjustment screws. I had to refrain from throwing tools quite a few times for cylinders 1 and 2. My trick to get to the adjusters was using one of those flexible screwdriver adjustments with a bit driver set. Also since I have a bazzaz ZFi in my bike I just had the ZFi software running when I did my adjustements to fine tune my idle speed.
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post #14 of 19 Old 01-11-2015, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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I found the biggest issue when I first tried to sync, is that no one actually describes the PITA steps and the little things that can really make or break the process. All the videos and DIYs I found are very generic and pretty much say to just hook everything up... I ended up taking my bike apart, about to sync, and didn't have half the things I actually needed.

The 2013 manual doesn't say anything about the T connector. From memory, the manual doesn't even tell you to hook all 4 cylinders up. I tired syncing it 3 cylinders at a time and eventually found that it didn't work too well. Tbh, I just got a bit creative and put one on based on the error codes and engine response I was getting during my sync. I think you can do with just 3 cylinders at a time, but for the sake of a 30 cent piece, it was well worth getting the part.

Absolutely use the Bazzaz. I used my PCV when I had it hooked up.

I should have changed the title so it goes back to the previous models, but I wasn't too sure about the differences between gens. I imagine the 2007+ zx6r's are all the same.

Hope this helps more people in the future.
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post #15 of 19 Old 03-10-2015, 10:07 AM
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Does the airbox really need to be installed during the sync process?
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