DIY: 2013+ Syncing Throttle Bodies (cause I don't know about the setup on the previous generation models): So, the information here is purely for educational purposes and I am in no way responsible for what ever you do to your bike. All that legal jargon, etc.
FYI. This is photo intensive cause you know... detail.
I have struggled to find a detailed throttle bodies sync for the zx6r, and those who are following my 2013 636 Vibration thread can see that I've been playing with it. The main reason for this is because I have found a few things that I feel are important for those who plan to do a throttle bodies sync on their bike (and most of these are for the 2013+ 636). I am in no way a genius at this, I've been performing the sync under trial and error, so if anyone has corrections or suggestions, please put them forward to help everyone.
A lot of issues will relate specifically with the 2013+ 636, so please bear in mind that it is not this hard on every bike. Models will change, as will their layouts. Things you will need (essentials to the sync):
- Tiny flat head screw driver (less than 4mm) that is less than 10cm total length. Make sure it has a thin shaft - none of that security bit bullshit.
You can get away with this: but prepare for painful fingers:
I used something more like this (and it only just fit for Cylinder #2):
Or get this if you can afford it (the proper tool they recommend):
- Vacuum Gauge
You can go all out and get a proper set, I just picked up a Carbtune (uses cm Hg as its measuring scale):
Option stuff that could make your life way easier:
- IMPORTANT: 3 way 5mm (external diameter) hose fitting (the one fish tanks use). Absolutely friggin necessary for syncing which is not included in the Carbtune package.
- Needle nose pliers (seriously, so worth it)
- Flashlight - like a powerful LED one
- Quarter to Half a tank of fuel. A full tank is heavy and will spill. A lighter tank is easier to work with.
- OEM extension hose for the fuel tank - frees up room, but they are like $120. (edit: these are about 1m long, not the 15-20cm you find on ebay. Though I am considering purchasing one and chopping it up to make a proper one)
- PCV and Laptop to monitor RPMs - for accurate rev monitoring. I didn't bother after a while. Depends on what you are actually trying to accomplish.
- A roof or a rack with a piece of string hanging just above the bike - to hang the Carbtune off - see photos for what I had to do.
Seriously don't bother starting the sync without the essential tools. The nice to haves just make it easier or more accurate. Instructions:
Most people say to take the bike for a decent ride so everything is warmed up. I agree, BUT, the bike and its engine will be hot. When I'm lazy, I'll just let the bike warm up with everything hooked up - but I seriously don't plan to accomplish much when I don't do a proper warm up.
Conclusion: Take the bike for spin, let it cool down enough to not burn you. Then commence.
- 2. Put the bike on a rear stand
This is to get the bike upright. I have sync'd with the bike on it's side stand, and there is a slight difference but not much. The biggest thing you will notice is that: with the bike on a stand, you can easily access everything because the tank is not leaning.
Conclusion: Get a rear stand, paddock bobbins (8mm) if you don't have them, and get that bike upright.
- 3. Take the fairings, seat, tank, airbox off and get to the throttle bodies
I really don't want to describe this step, so I won't.
There are enough posts about how to get that stuff off.
But, word of advice, actually take the tank off the bike, don't just prop it back. This will make your life a lot easier when trying to figure out where everything is. Also, disassemble your airbox properly. Don't just pull it off - check the filter condition, and learn how to put it back on properly because you will do this quite a few times.
You should see this:
Just follow their instructions.
Add the 3-way fitting to one of the hoses before the damper (on the short side). This is for Cylinder 4:
- 5. Take off Throttle Body plugs
On the front of the throttle bodies (facing the bike), you will see 3x of these black plugs on Cylinders 1, 2, 3:
Pull them off (using the needle nose pliers, but don't damage them) and DON'T LOSE THEM. Put them somewhere safe.
You'll notice Cylinder 4 doesn't have a plug. It has a sensor hooked up instead. Hence Step 4. Don't bother with syncing if you haven't put the 3 way fitting onto the hose. That sensor does the same thing you're about it do, and monitors the amount of air coming through. If you disconnect it, the bike will fault and won't run smoothly. And you want all 4 cylinders hooked up cause they all change with each adjustment.
Hook up the other hoses to each plug. Make it clear which hose is hooked to which Cylinder #, just so you can put them in corresponding spots when you hook them onto the Carbtune.
Should look like this when complete:
You don't need to remove the AIS. Just plug this hole on the base of the airbox. Just use tape unless you have a block off kit, like Ivans, where you can use their plug.
- 8. Locate the Throttle Body Adjustment Screws
Before putting the Airbox back on, locate the adjustment screws.
From the manual:
This looks easy to get to with the airbox off and tank out of the way. But once you put it all on, you will swear and struggle more than you ever thought you would.
This is the view you may see:
Word of advise.
- 9. Put the bike back together
Cylinder 2's adjustment screw is near fucking impossible to get to with the airbox and tank back on. If you don't believe me, put it back on and try and get to it. Go on. I'll wait...
Now that you've realised how fucking impossibly cramped the area is, I recommend you grab your screw driver and put it into the screw before you put the airbox and tank back on. Get it to sit in a spot where it won't fall out, but where you can feel it has a firm grasp and can turn the screw. This way, once everything is back on, you can adjust cylinder 2 first,without having to search for it.
This is the view:
This is Cylinder 1:
This is Cylinder 2 (insert whatever joke you want here):
Once you have that set up, put the bike back together properly. Move the hoses to the side and run them in a way that won't squish or get them caught under anything. If you want, you can hook up the Carbtune before you put the airbox and tank back on so you know which hose is for which cylinder. Note
: The way you put the airbox on (properly whether you've disassembled it and put it back on properly, or whether you were a lazy fuck, and took the whole box off, and just pushed it back on, will determine how accurate the sync results are.
Should start to look like this:
As you can see, the position of the Carbtune is why I recommend doing this under a roof, where you can hang it off something to see it, and keep it out of the way. The Carbtune is super sensitive to lean, so it's suppose to hang from the clip on the top of the unit.
Also follow the instructions about how to run the hoses and stuff.
Once the airbox is back on securely, put the tank back on. You'll need to prop the tank back during the sync unless you have the extension hose.
- 10. Turn the bike on and let it warm up again
I don't know any universal rule, but I'll get the bike to at least 65 degrees Celsius BUT, you will be running the bike so you are limited on time and how long you can sync before you start overheating the bike.
Don't walk away. Watching the Carbtune results is pretty interesting. Each blip from the throttle will pretty much reset the system. You have to keep blipping during the sync. Note
: Don't prop the tank yet. Your fuel pump can't handle the stress of being half submerged, and if you have a full tank, prepare for fuel on the ground.
Now is the time to prop the tank back. I used a tie down strap:
Notice the available space to work on have been reduced to this? Yeah, have fun!
There are a lot of different pieces of advise on the actual syncing process.
The general list of steps is:
- Look for cylinders that aren't aligned on Vacuum Gauge
- Adjust screw for that cylinder.
Clockwise = More Air and higher bars, Counter clockwise = Less Air and lower bars
- Don't completely tighten the screws
- Lather, rinse, repeat.
The general thing is to blip after every change. You generally won't see changes instantly till after a blip.
Some people will say adjust it at idle, then raise the revs to highway cruising speed (say 6000rpm), hold it at 6000rpm and adjust screws, blipping in between and stuff to keep it resetting. I did this and it's a long process. I have found a lot of different things on this and more input about this process is appreciated.
This is mine at idle:
So yes, keep doing it for as long as it takes to get it within a sync you are happy with. You should notice a smoother engine noise if your sync was off.
You won't be able to get them all perfectly aligned because the bars on the Carbtune are all fluctuating. Note
: Each time you shut your bike off, put the tank down. You will have troubles starting up (engine will fire and die instantly) after a long period with the tank propped up. Best way to get around this - no clue. I tried priming the tank multiple times before starting, but it didn't change. I just had to let the tank sit properly for 10 minutes.
I settled for this. I could do a lot better, but it was like 40, and in the sun. No.
Once you are happy. Turn it all off. Disconnect the hoses and put the plugs back on. Put the bike back together properly, making sure all the connections are back on properly.
Take your time. and Enjoy the hopefully noticeable and improved results from your bike.
Feedback appreciated. Esp if I missed anything, or if there's more info to add.