2016 rear shock removal - Page 2 - ZX6R Forum
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post #16 of 50 Old 01-08-2017, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ninjaman89 View Post
Pslow uses fork extenders to get the entire ride height higher, not to raise the front relative to the rear. He has the rear shock at max length.



These bikes definitely benefit from raising the rear some, but just be careful because it will get unstable if you go too far.


I was hoping 8mm would be just right! No a guy that raised his bike 10mm and he couldn't touch the floor anymore lol that was a r6 though.
I will do it and try it out and let you guys no how it felt won't be riding until I go brands on the 23rd march. It's just a novice day but I want the 1 to 1 tuition they give you on those days. Then a open pit day in April.
Won't to visit all the tracks they race in the rookie 600 class for the bmrca so I'm prepared come 2018


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post #17 of 50 Old 01-08-2017, 11:47 AM
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Straight out of the service manual
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Originally Posted by jd41 View Post
Anyone know the socket size needed for the top clevis then? I need to go out and get the deep socket.
Which one is the torque spec for that but at the top? I didn't know so I just put as much pressure as it took to come off. I would much rather go back in and torque it spec though.

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post #18 of 50 Old 01-08-2017, 11:50 AM
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Which one is the torque spec for that but at the top? I didn't know so I just put as much pressure as it took to come off. I would much rather go back in and torque it spec though.
Bracket nut [D], 44 ft-lbs
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post #19 of 50 Old 01-08-2017, 12:01 PM
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I have my forks coming through 10mm above top triple. The sag is set at 30mm. The settings other than that are dialled in as per how I felt riding the bike and the best for me. I am 80kg and am unsure if the spring is correct for me but something definetly isn't right as I feel it just doesn't dive in quickly. Could it be technique, sure! I thought by raising the rear it would give me that sharper turn in, but that's just from reading information about how the geometry affects handling but I'm no specialist so could be completely off. For the sake of a 8mm spacer I thought what the hell, of its crap I can pull it out right?
10mm? Wow! Mine are flush with the triple. My rear sag is at about 25 mm. No extra spacers on the clevis aside from the stock one, which I can't remember what thickness it is. I have an adjustable Ohlins but it's set at 339 mm eye-to-eye length which from what I've been told is the same as the stock shock.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ninjaman89 View Post
Pslow uses fork extenders to get the entire ride height higher, not to raise the front relative to the rear. He has the rear shock at max length.

These bikes definitely benefit from raising the rear some, but just be careful because it will get unstable if you go too far.
Could be right, I don't recall what he did to his rear height. Might as well ask him. @PainfullySlo ...what's your rear height set at, or at least what have you done relative to stock? And while we're at it how much did you increase your front height by?
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post #20 of 50 Old 01-08-2017, 12:06 PM
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I was hoping 8mm would be just right! No a guy that raised his bike 10mm and he couldn't touch the floor anymore lol that was a r6 though.
I will do it and try it out and let you guys no how it felt won't be riding until I go brands on the 23rd march. It's just a novice day but I want the 1 to 1 tuition they give you on those days. Then a open pit day in April.
Won't to visit all the tracks they race in the rookie 600 class for the bmrca so I'm prepared come 2018


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Different bike though, so can't compare. On my 1198 I raised my rear by like 15 mm and the front by just a few mm (can't remember for sure but pretty sure it was less than 5). That helped on that bike for sure, but on the zx6r, like I said I was surprised with how twitchy it was when I got it, and raising the front 5 mm, while leaving the rear at stock height helped a lot. Still feels like it's on rails, and it turns in quicker than any other bike I've ridden and doesn't go wide on exit, and also doesn't put me in a tank-slapper when I get on the gas hard, which is nice lol

Then again, everyone's different, so what works for one person may not work as well for another.
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post #21 of 50 Old 01-08-2017, 12:14 PM
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10mm? Wow! Mine are flush with the triple. My rear sag is at about 25 mm. No extra spacers on the clevis aside from the stock one, which I can't remember what thickness it is. I have an adjustable Ohlins but it's set at 339 mm eye-to-eye length which from what I've been told is the same as the stock shock.



Could be right, I don't recall what he did to his rear height. Might as well ask him. @PainfullySlo ...what's your rear height set at, or at least what have you done relative to stock? And while we're at it how much did you increase your front height by?
Quote:
Originally Posted by sbk1198 View Post
Different bike though, so can't compare. On my 1198 I raised my rear by like 15 mm and the front by just a few mm (can't remember for sure but pretty sure it was less than 5). That helped on that bike for sure, but on the zx6r, like I said I was surprised with how twitchy it was when I got it, and raising the front 5 mm, while leaving the rear at stock height helped a lot. Still feels like it's on rails, and it turns in quicker than any other bike I've ridden and doesn't go wide on exit, and also doesn't put me in a tank-slapper when I get on the gas hard, which is nice lol

Then again, everyone's different, so what works for one person may not work as well for another.
lol I admire your cander SBK, you don't like to step on toes huh? You basically said "mmmm I think you're wrong, but let's ask Pslow just in case!"
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post #22 of 50 Old 01-08-2017, 12:29 PM
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lol I admire your cander SBK, you don't like to step on toes huh? You basically said "mmmm I think you're wrong, but let's ask Pslow just in case!"
lol, no not all! I honestly don't know for sure. I thought I did, but you made me question myself, so thought I'd ask the source directly, that's all You may very well be right.
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post #23 of 50 Old 01-08-2017, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sbk1198 View Post
Different bike though, so can't compare. On my 1198 I raised my rear by like 15 mm and the front by just a few mm (can't remember for sure but pretty sure it was less than 5). That helped on that bike for sure, but on the zx6r, like I said I was surprised with how twitchy it was when I got it, and raising the front 5 mm, while leaving the rear at stock height helped a lot. Still feels like it's on rails, and it turns in quicker than any other bike I've ridden and doesn't go wide on exit, and also doesn't put me in a tank-slapper when I get on the gas hard, which is nice lol

Then again, everyone's different, so what works for one person may not work as well for another.


I'll have to have a play around and see where I get, when I first got the bike the ohlins damper was set to soft and it was twitchy as fuck, soon as I took it up 7 clicks the bike was lovely. I feel very planted on the bike for sure. But now I'm starting to get serious about starting racing I need the bike tonne as good as for this year so I can work on all my techniques comfortably.


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post #24 of 50 Old 01-08-2017, 12:47 PM
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I'll have to have a play around and see where I get, when I first got the bike the ohlins damper was set to soft and it was twitchy as fuck, soon as I took it up 7 clicks the bike was lovely. I feel very planted on the bike for sure. But now I'm starting to get serious about starting racing I need the bike tonne as good as for this year so I can work on all my techniques comfortably.


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Post some on-track videos later on! It'd be cool to see some of the BSB tracks that I've seen only on TV. You guys have some pretty nice tracks there, especially for bikes....and you don't have to drive like 12 hours to get to them.
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post #25 of 50 Old 01-08-2017, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Yer I have brands hatch just up the road so is great. Although this year they aren't doing that many open pit lane days for bikes! Theres only 4 in the calendar at the mo. I am going to install the go pro 5 on the tail this year to get some good footage of how I progress. Haven't got any track videos of me yet, i will be logging all this year though for sure. And now with the camper it will be easier to bring a lot of stuff and can also get the mrs filming fly bys from track side.


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post #26 of 50 Old 01-08-2017, 01:45 PM
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I agree that Andi0 needs to be very careful adding an 8 mm shim while having that much of the fork tubes prodruding above the top triple clamp! You do realize that adding an 8 mm shim will raise the rear ride height at least DOUBLE that due to the shock linkage. I added a 6 mm shim to the clevis of my '12 (stock shock length 339 mm) and it raised the rear above the axle over 14 mm, causing me to "tippy-toe" with my feet now; 32 in inseam. Oh, and my forks were lengthened 15 mm by the Racetech kit, and lengthened another 5 mm by running flush with the top triple. I know it's not the same bike, but ...

Finally, the comment by the OP about the "twitchiness" of the front end until the steering damper was turned up implies the rear is too high relative to the front already. You shouldn't use the damper to cover up an underlying problem. I even watched a YouTube video recently by West coast suspension guru Dave Moss to the same effect: you should fix the problem of the head shake being caused by the bike's geometry before utilizing the steering damper.

If the OP's rear shock spring is too soft and the rear is sinking down excessively I can see ... but if not the raising of the rear end should proceed with extreme caution; especially at track pace. Just be careful...
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Last edited by Duc995; 01-08-2017 at 01:48 PM.
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post #27 of 50 Old 01-08-2017, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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I agree that Andi0 needs to be very careful adding an 8 mm shim while having that much of the fork tubes prodruding above the top triple clamp! You do realize that adding an 8 mm shim will raise the rear ride height at least DOUBLE that due to the shock linkage. I added a 6 mm shim to the clevis of my '12 (stock shock length 339 mm) and it raised the rear above the axle over 14 mm, causing me to "tippy-toe" with my feet now; 32 in inseam. Oh, and my forks were lengthened 15 mm by the Racetech kit, and lengthened another 5 mm by running flush with the top triple. I know it's not the same bike, but ...

Finally, the comment by the OP about the "twitchiness" of the front end until the steering damper was turned up implies the rear is too high relative to the front already. You shouldn't use the damper to cover up an underlying problem. I even watched a YouTube video recently by West coast suspension guru Dave Moss to the same effect: you should fix the problem of the head shake being caused by the bike's geometry before utilizing the steering damper.

If the OP's rear shock spring is too soft and the rear is sinking down excessively I can see ... but if not the raising of the rear end should proceed with extreme caution; especially at track pace. Just be careful...


I always listen to feedback and will only try this setting, if it's no good I'll go for a thinner spacer. I will ride try ride try! At the beans day on the 23rd there is going to be some suspension specialist so throughout the day I will get there assistance with the setup and hopefully dial it in.


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post #28 of 50 Old 01-08-2017, 02:31 PM
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Geometry differences between 09 and 13

Fork height / shock shim

09-12 zx6r
5mm / 4mm

13+ zx6r
7mm / 2mm

Martillo y Mantequilla #99
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post #29 of 50 Old 01-08-2017, 02:38 PM
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I would really recommend going and having an experienced tuner set up your bike. Just kinda guessing at it based on what someone else has done who may or may not not have any idea what they are doing can get your bike all screwey pretty quick. You have to set the rear ride height based on the swing arm angle you need. That's just a physical property there is no other way to get around, then once that is where it needs to be you have to move the front to get rake/trail to where it needs to be (to make it all oversimplified). Which is how people end up with fork extenders. But, in order to get all that right you really need to know what numbers you are trying to achieve and someone who makes a living setting bikes up will know what you need to get too. Then you are in the ballpark and can make small adjustments from there if you really want to.

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Since I'm doing this today I figured I'd add a quick tip: use a 16mm nut instead of washers. Mine is 6mm thick instead of the stock 2mm shim, but this allows me to adjust it to anything I'd like without taking off the entire clevis
Uh, might not be an issue but the threads were not meant to take the load like that... you check they will be ok and not strip?
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post #30 of 50 Old 01-08-2017, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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I would really recommend going and having an experienced tuner set up your bike. Just kinda guessing at it based on what someone else has done who may or may not not have any idea what they are doing can get your bike all screwey pretty quick. You have to set the rear ride height based on the swing arm angle you need. That's just a physical property there is no other way to get around, then once that is where it needs to be you have to move the front to get rake/trail to where it needs to be (to make it all oversimplified). Which is how people end up with fork extenders. But, in order to get all that right you really need to know what numbers you are trying to achieve and someone who makes a living setting bikes up will know what you need to get too. Then you are in the ballpark and can make small adjustments from there if you really want to.







Uh, might not be an issue but the threads were not meant to take the load like that... you check they will be ok and not strip?


Like said above I will be getting assistance when at the track from a suspension specialist. I'm not one to jump into anything until the full knowledge is there.


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