384 miles too late...should I be worried? - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 31 Old 01-11-2017, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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384 miles too late...should I be worried?

Just realized I forgot about Motoman's break in technique where I should had change the oil the first 20 miles and how I should use car based engine oil...That I did with my 2010 ZX6R. (With 18,000 miles which engine's still perfect and purrs well.)

I've been riding it hard for the past 384 miles on my 2016 ZX6R just like I did to my older 6R but was foolish enough to forget to recheck Motoman's website of breaking in when I thought it was the first 500 miles of hard riding. Now that I realized I did it wrong and about to change oil filter and oil asap now that I realized...So the question is...

Should I now have to watch out for the potential engine problems of not changing the oil at first 20 miles on my new 636? So much regrets are filling in me right now.

Expecting to see A LOT of metal shavings soon as well when draining....


[EDIT] Would Mobil M1-110 fit on my 636 fine? Been using it on my 2010 6R all the time.

Last edited by GNeo; 01-11-2017 at 02:11 PM.
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post #2 of 31 Old 01-11-2017, 02:20 PM
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Change the oil and filter immediately with good quality oil and filter and don't look back.

yes I am an advocate for the 20-25 mile oil/filter change...........

but you cannot go back in time, so move ahead....
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Stupid people say stupid things on the internet, so be wary of who those people are. If you solicit advice on the internet, just keep in mind 99% of what you'll receive is not based on fact or science-and likely atleast 95% of it is based on bullshit and bravado regurgitated from some other schlub who also did not experience any of what they claim and are also full of shit. If you don't like my bluntness- too bad. I am not here to please you, so move along, your approval is not desired nor is it needed. So before opening your pie hole and adding more stupidity, perhaps sit back, listen, absorb and learn something. You know that saying, it is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt!
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post #3 of 31 Old 01-11-2017, 02:31 PM
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Change the oil and ride on.....



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post #4 of 31 Old 01-11-2017, 02:35 PM
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WTF is this shit about using car engine oil? Motorcycle oils are there for a reason (they have to deal with a gearbox as well). And yes I'm a big Mobil 1 fanboy too - just will never waste car oil in a bike or vice-versa.

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post #5 of 31 Old 01-11-2017, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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WTF is this shit about using car engine oil? Motorcycle oils are there for a reason (they have to deal with a gearbox as well). And yes I'm a big Mobil 1 fanboy too - just will never waste car oil in a bike or vice-versa.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

There you go. He recommended using car oil for the first 1,500 miles. I'm a mobil 1 fan boy too, but I was asking about the oil filter though. So M1-110 will work on newer 6R then?


Another question, can I use 2 quarts of unused Mobil1 oil to wash down the existing oil that has been going through the engine, before draining it again, not riding it but idle it for a good enough time... I just drained the oil that had seen 384 miles... Will be buying new oil and filter this Friday. Until then, no more riding.
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post #6 of 31 Old 01-11-2017, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GNeo View Post
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

There you go. He recommended using car oil for the first 1,500 miles. I'm a mobil 1 fan boy too, but I was asking about the oil filter though. So M1-110 will work on newer 6R then?


Another question, can I use 2 quarts of unused Mobil1 oil to wash down the existing oil that has been going through the engine, before draining it again, not riding it but idle it for a good enough time... I just drained the oil that had seen 384 miles... Will be buying new oil and filter this Friday. Until then, no more riding.

I am not going to read the article but.........

car oil (all except 20w50) has additives that are must not ~and~ is also missing additives that are a must for your motorcycle

So run motorcycle specific oil.....short of that...run diesel oil---no bullshit additives that are bad for the bike, it actually is very similar to motorcycle oil (but that can be a different discussion)

As far as the worth of installing 2 quarts of new oil and running that for a bit and then draining again to "flush" the system.........will you also be running a new filter and changing that? Will you also be creating more damage by not having enough oil in the bike?

It would be one thing to pour a little clean oil through to "wash" the oil pan.........but even that would have minimal gains, but hey it could have some gains......

If you really wanted to do something to really clean it out.......

go ahead and do a complete change now....run bike for 5 minutes-an hour-a tank of fuel or two and then change oil/filter again

or you could go all in...........pull the exhaust, remove the oil pan and clutch cover then clean it out completely

But I most certainly would not be running the bike on 2 quarts of oil when it requires 4

Stupid people say stupid things on the internet, so be wary of who those people are. If you solicit advice on the internet, just keep in mind 99% of what you'll receive is not based on fact or science-and likely atleast 95% of it is based on bullshit and bravado regurgitated from some other schlub who also did not experience any of what they claim and are also full of shit. If you don't like my bluntness- too bad. I am not here to please you, so move along, your approval is not desired nor is it needed. So before opening your pie hole and adding more stupidity, perhaps sit back, listen, absorb and learn something. You know that saying, it is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt!
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post #7 of 31 Old 01-11-2017, 03:26 PM
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There's nothing in that article that makes me want to follow their method. Especially the bit that goes...

Quote:
Q: What about motorcycle V.S. car oils ?
A: This is a topic all by itself !! It will be covered in a future issue of Power News.
Oh yeah? I'm sitting here waiting. Why don't you title it "How to fuck an engine 101".
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post #8 of 31 Old 01-11-2017, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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Hmmm, okay sounds like I have nothing much to worry considering two of you last posters with vast experience..I'm assuming more than 10 years (9 years exp here.)

So what I'm going to do is just leave the bike alone until Friday which I get paid. Then fill it with new motorcycle oil and filter, start riding the shit out of it for another good 1,116 miles until odometer says 1,500 (because I like to even it all.) and change oil once again.

For some reason, I'm feeling better now. haha
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post #9 of 31 Old 01-11-2017, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by riverszzr View Post

go ahead and do a complete change now....run bike for 5 minutes-an hour-a tank of fuel or two and then change oil/filter again
Similar to what I did recently. Just finished throwing everything back together from having the head off completely. Just in case I didn't clean everything well enough, I put in cheapish fresh 10w-40, ran it for about 10 minutes, then flushed it and refilled with quality oil👍🏻

Might've been overkill, but hey, pretty cheap insurance
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post #10 of 31 Old 01-11-2017, 03:56 PM
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What is this "oil" thing you guys speak of??
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post #11 of 31 Old 01-11-2017, 04:40 PM
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You did it now. You'll probably have chunks of valves and pistons come out when you drain your oil.
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post #12 of 31 Old 01-11-2017, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by trackdayhero View Post
You did it now. You'll probably have chunks of valves and pistons come out when you drain your oil.
Damn, that explains all those big hard chunks when I drained earlier.


Just realized I got a store credit account at local motorcycle dealership so I went in and asked for the best non-synthetic oil which was Lucas oil (Of course, motorcycle specific oil.) and new oil filter...

Cause you know...I cannot breathe without riding for days. The mechanic said I should be fine anyways as I explained the situation. Really, I shouldn't just have freaked out hard. The bike smells good as hell too with the fresh oil and whatnot!

Time to ride the shit out of it soon!
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post #13 of 31 Old 01-11-2017, 06:16 PM
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Yeah you'll be fine. I've never heard of a bike on which you should change the oil after only 20 miles. All the manuals that I've seen usually state after about 500-600 miles depending on the bike. Are there different ways of breaking in a bike? Sure. There are various schools of thought on that, and I've seen people follow the manual exactly as it states, while others did the good old "break it in like you're gonna ride it later on anyway by riding the shit out of it on the track", and other variations in between. All have had good results, because you're likely not going to find any issues early on. It's not like the pistons, rods, valves, etc. are simply going to disintegrate if you do it differently.

But using car oil....no. Don't do that, regardless of when you change the oil. Also, why non-synthetic? Is that simply because you wanted to cheap out on the oil or is there another reason behind it? I'd recommend going with synthetic.
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post #14 of 31 Old 01-11-2017, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbk1198 View Post
But using car oil....no. Don't do that, regardless of when you change the oil. Also, why non-synthetic? Is that simply because you wanted to cheap out on the oil or is there another reason behind it? I'd recommend going with synthetic.
Because a monkey on the internet recommended it. After all nothing's ever incorrect on the interwebs, right?
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post #15 of 31 Old 01-11-2017, 08:42 PM
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Pick your favorite brand.... just use an oil that meets or exceeds all manufacturer specifications for JASO MA.

That is your wet clutch requirement.


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