Questions about replacing 09 Swingarm - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 03-04-2017, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Questions about replacing 09 Swingarm

So i picked up a used swingarm off of Ebay from a 2012 back in November. Winter has been awful here, and my girlfriend's junk is cluttering up my garage so I am just now getting around to swap it out. It looks to be in great condition other than a small dent from where the exhaust must've hit in a low speed crash I am assuming. The reason for replacing, is that mine has hit the ground 3 times and is in way worse condition. Plus I am missing a spool mount and I absolutely hate using the under the swingarm Pit Bull attachment.
I also wasn't 100% certain that mine was straight. What is the best way to verify if they are straight? I am a machinist in the Aerospace industry so I can be a bit OCD when it comes to measuring parts. My concern is that the distance between the swingarm clevis where the wheels locate and axle slides through is .100" wider on my original swingarm. We all know what a pain it is to swap the rear wheel so I am concerned about the used one being .100" narrower. I did take numerous measurements throughout both swingarms and the used one is just narrower all the way through.
By any chance does anyone with an 09-12 happen to have their rear wheel off and can take a measurement between the flats where the wheel spacers fit between? haha
Also, I do have the manual and the castle nut socket but is there any other things I should be weary of when swapping a swingarm? This is a first for me. Thanks!
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post #2 of 13 Old 03-04-2017, 09:06 PM
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I actually do...be back in a jiffy with a number.

Just to be sure we're on the same page though, you are measuring right where the axle goes, from inside of each arm correct?

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post #3 of 13 Old 03-04-2017, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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That's awesome man, thank you! Yeah the distance between at the very rear slots where the spacers mate up and axle slides through. On my original it was about 9.810" and on the used it was 9.710". I used 12" calipers haha

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post #4 of 13 Old 03-04-2017, 09:11 PM
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Unfortunately my calipers are only 8" so I can't be accurate to the nearest .001", but with the tape measure it came out exactly at 9.75".

2007 ZZR600 (sold)
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post #5 of 13 Old 03-04-2017, 09:16 PM
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Also worth mentioning that they flex quite a bit. Since my axle is in (cuz I didn't want to leave it on the floor), I can turn the nut by hand and it will squeeze the arms by at least 1/10th of an inch, and that's just finger tight. I think you'll be fine. Plenty of tolerance.

If you think about it, when you put the rear wheel in with spacers, axle and all that, once you start turning the nut, you can actually turn it quite a bit until you really start feeling a lot of resistance, leading me to believe there's a fair amount of tolerance in that.

Since you have 12" calipers why don't you just put your spacers in the wheel and then measure the distance from the outside to outside of the spacers....assuming the prongs on the calipers are long enough to clear the hub diameter.

EDIT:...now that I think of it, put the spacers in, and lay the wheel down on a flat surface, and use the end of the calipers to measure the height. That should be thinner than the axle so it'll fit. Then measure the rear caliper bracket and add the two together.

2007 ZZR600 (sold)
2006 CBR600 (sold)
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2009 ZX6R (race bike)
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Last edited by sbk1198; 03-04-2017 at 09:19 PM.
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post #6 of 13 Old 03-04-2017, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, that works..did you burn an inch or was there a bit of slop in the end of tape? Lol sorry man. I should be ok on the used one. Maybe mine did get tweaked since its at least a 1/16 wider than yours. I appreciate the help! I figure I will know if something is wrong after I install it.

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post #7 of 13 Old 03-04-2017, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sbk1198 View Post
Also worth mentioning that they flex quite a bit. Since my axle is in (cuz I didn't want to leave it on the floor), I can turn the nut by hand and it will squeeze the arms by at least 1/10th of an inch, and that's just finger tight. I think you'll be fine. Plenty of tolerance.

If you think about it, when you put the rear wheel in with spacers, axle and all that, once you start turning the nut, you can actually turn it quite a bit until you really start feeling a lot of resistance, leading me to believe there's a fair amount of tolerance in that.

Since you have 12" calipers why don't you just put your spacers in the wheel and then measure the distance from the outside to outside of the spacers....assuming the prongs on the calipers are long enough to clear the hub diameter.

EDIT:...now that I think of it, put the spacers in, and lay the wheel down on a flat surface, and use the end of the calipers to measure the height. That should be thinner than the axle so it'll fit. Then measure the rear caliper bracket and add the two together.
I thought about that but for some reason since the jaws weren't long enough I gave up Haha. But yeah, I can just use the calipers as a depth mic through the hub to get the o.d. and add the width if the caliper bracket to get an idea. You're also correct in that they do flex quite a bit at that point. I just panicked because it's already a tight fit and now I just lost another .100" on the used one! Ugh! Lol

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post #8 of 13 Old 03-04-2017, 09:36 PM
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I thought about that but for some reason since the jaws weren't long enough I gave up Haha. But yeah, I can just use the calipers as a depth mic through the hub to get the o.d. and add the width if the caliper bracket to get an idea. You're also correct in that they do flex quite a bit at that point. I just panicked because it's already a tight fit and now I just lost another .100" on the used one! Ugh! Lol

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Generally it's not really that much of a tight fit, it just feels like it because you need like 3-4 hands lol...Gotta hold 2 spacers in, caliper, and axle in one hand, plus the wheel...it's a bitch. Which is why I have captive spacers. Makes it so much better! I can put the axle in just enough to hold the caliper bracket without going past it, then slide my wheel in without worrying about spacers, put the chain on, then slide the axle in and done!

2007 ZZR600 (sold)
2006 CBR600 (sold)
2010 1198 (parted out across North America)
2013 CBR500R (race bike)
2009 ZX6R (race bike)
2015 R3 (project bike and future race bike)

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post #9 of 13 Old 03-04-2017, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sbk1198 View Post
Generally it's not really that much of a tight fit, it just feels like it because you need like 3-4 hands lol...Gotta hold 2 spacers in, caliper, and axle in one hand, plus the wheel...it's a bitch. Which is why I have captive spacers. Makes it so much better! I can put the axle in just enough to hold the caliper bracket without going past it, then slide my wheel in without worrying about spacers, put the chain on, then slide the axle in and done!
Haha yeah I need to put those on my list for this season.

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post #10 of 13 Old 03-05-2017, 08:23 AM
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You say your a machinist in aerospace? You dont happen to work for that plane manufacture out of Gresham?
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post #11 of 13 Old 03-05-2017, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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You say your a machinist in aerospace? You dont happen to work for that plane manufacture out of Gresham?
I do. Arnprior Aerospace Inc. We are right up the street from Boeing (Portland).

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post #12 of 13 Old 03-05-2017, 08:50 AM
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I think you guys do some work for us or use to. Its funny my swing arm is damage as well from a low side but I have been riding that way. Good luck on the swap. I have never done one let us know how it goes.
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post #13 of 13 Old 03-06-2017, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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I think you guys do some work for us or use to. Its funny my swing arm is damage as well from a low side but I have been riding that way. Good luck on the swap. I have never done one let us know how it goes.
Right on. Are you in the Aerospace industry as well? The tools and machines in the shop have come in handy for my bike on numerous occasions. Haha. I was working some OT yesterday so I didn't get too much time to work on the swingarm. I did check my axles for runout while I was at work though

The one i got on ebay was within .002" and the axle that was on bike was a little over .004".
.008" is service limit so they're both good.
I just slapped the new swingarm on a few minutes ago, I think it went well lol. You are supposed to torque the pivot shaft first to 15 ft/lbs which should seat the adjusting collar up against the bearing. Only problem with that is that you can't see in there! I am hoping it is flush. Then you torque that castle nut, and move to the left aide of bike and torque the pivot shaft nut. Is it that easy? Or is there more to that adjustment collar seating flush with the bearing? I am pretty sure it's good to go, but since I have never done it before who knows.
Some in process pics
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Last edited by MotoCT; 03-06-2017 at 09:24 PM. Reason: pics are sideways
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