Post Master General
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Bowling Green, VA
I Ride: '09 ZX6R
Thanks for that.
Cable action is perfectly smooth..... I have been a proponent of not injecting problems where there wasn't one before, and still haven't seen any reason to change this approach.
The way I think of it, the cable mfg installed the cable within the sheathing when they built the assembly, and they used cable that was loaded with lubricant when they did. As there is almost no way for dirt to work it's way inside the sheathing, except at the ends, the central part of the cable shouldn't ever see any change in environment. I'm guessing that dirt and moisture can't migrate far enough into the sheathing to create a rough spot, unless something is done to propel it in further. Aside from submerging the cable overnight in water, the ends of the cable are the only places that will be exposed to grit and moisture. Keep them clean and well lubed and the main span of the cable should take care of itself.
Just like with an O ring chain..... if something is sprayed into the sheathing, there has to be a solvent involved. The solvent is almost certainly going to dissolve the lubricant the mfg put there. I cannot imagine that the replacement material is going to be as uniformly distributed, and you have the added friction modifiers that were carried in from the exposed ends of the cable.
The way the rubber boot covers the clutch end tip of the cable..... no dirt is going to get in there until the boot fails. Mine's 8+ years old and is still in good shape.
At the lever end, the tip of the cable is pointed towards the ground, then loops up before descending into the chassis to route to the clutch... gravity is being used to keep moisture out of the sheathing. Add to that the knurled adjuster, with the slot (keep that pointed down, if you can), and the shoulders on the adjuster parts so that the sheathing is covered and you have a quite limited area that can get dirty.
I believe the lever pivot was actually dirty... but it seems more like most of the issue was that it was too tight. The action improved drastically, as soon as I backed the lock nut off less than 1/8th of a turn, and became silky smooth with a touch of machine oil.
When I pick up some of the lube PSlo identified, I will almost certainly take the whole thing apart again and actually lube the pivot directly. It's already a night and day difference; if I can make that permanent I will jump at the opportunity.
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