STUCK oil filter!!!! WTF?!?! Can I heat it? - Page 2 - ZX6R Forum
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post #16 of 33 Old 04-13-2017, 05:56 PM
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Kawasaki should hire the same dude that puts the factory countersprocket nut to tighten the oil filters
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post #17 of 33 Old 04-13-2017, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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FINALLY got that fucker off!!!!

Took me 2 1/2 friggen hours. In the end yanking on it with channel locks crushed the shit out of it and it wouldn't budge.

What I did though was hammer on a 16mm socket OVER the 17mm nut (since I stripped the 17 mm shitty nut). That worked like a dream, took a little yanking but the smaller 16mm socket got enough grip and it cam off!

coated the shit out of the new o-ring on the new filter and lightly hand-tightened it. Heres to hoping that this one won't get locked on again!


Cheers guys and thanks for the advice!
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post #18 of 33 Old 04-13-2017, 07:58 PM
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Wow,, channel locks didn't work.. I crushed the crap out of mine. But it turned. LOL.

Main thing is you got it off. Great work.
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post #19 of 33 Old 04-14-2017, 10:50 AM
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Had the same problem on an '07. After rounding off that crap K&N nut, I lightly tapped the "5/8 - 16MM" Irwin bolt extractor on the nut. It took patience but after the second try it started spinning. $20. Worth every penny.
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post #20 of 33 Old 04-14-2017, 11:16 AM
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Why does no one use a spider clamp? I have a snap on one that will crush a filter before it slips.

Don't be stupid.
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post #21 of 33 Old 04-15-2017, 05:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellonearth View Post
Why does no one use a spider clamp? I have a snap on one that will crush a filter before it slips.
I wouldn't want to crush the filter unless it's necessary. It's not the body that's the problem, but the screw-on base getting stuck. The nut at the end of a filter is largely pointless (no pun intended) if there's nothing to send the torque further down to the base. All that happens is the thin shell crushing and tearing which causes even more woe. My focus is the base rather than the body of the filter.

Of course, this is all a moot point if you don't attach your oil filter like you're trying to demonstrate the latest Loctite product.

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post #22 of 33 Old 04-15-2017, 05:50 AM
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The strap types spread the clamping load over as much of the surface of the can as possible, but the strap itself doesn't have much purchase on the filter body. The spider types use multiple 'fingers', to do pretty much the same thing as the channel locks.... twisting the wrench to turn the spider, causes the fingers to clamp into the filter as well as start the twisting motion.

The end cap designs are meant to use the 'flutes' on the filters end, to use the whole filter like the nut on the end of the K&N design.... again, more surface area should reduce the stress on the sheet metal of the filter.

The K&N nut is a convenience, that only works if the filter wasn't used in that locktite commercial. Since it's stamped into the same sheetmetal as the rest of the filter body, there's not much in the way of mechanical strength to prevent it getting distorted. the only reason it holds up at all, is due to the complex shape it's stamped in. All those 90° bends stiffen it up to a degree.

All of these designs have limited purchase area, with the location of the filter on my '09. There's a gutter sort of arrangement under it, which sticks out from the case to aim any drips away from the motor. That gutter interferes with almost every filter wrench design I have tried -- limits the depth to which I can 'grab' the filter.

All of this has proven to be such a PITA, that I have resorted to the channel lock approach. The only merit of this is that I know it works, every time. I can only get about 1/8th of a turn, so I generally have to do it 2-3 times to break a filter free -- but it gets me where I need to be. My plastic filter end cap 'socket', I use to get that 1/4 turn past contact after I install the new filter. any more torque on the thing than that, and it distorts and pops off the filter.

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post #23 of 33 Old 04-15-2017, 06:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ2112 View Post
The strap types spread the clamping load over as much of the surface of the can as possible, but the strap itself doesn't have much purchase on the filter body. The spider types use multiple 'fingers', to do pretty much the same thing as the channel locks.... twisting the wrench to turn the spider, causes the fingers to clamp into the filter as well as start the twisting motion.

The end cap designs are meant to use the 'flutes' on the filters end, to use the whole filter like the nut on the end of the K&N design.... again, more surface area should reduce the stress on the sheet metal of the filter.

The K&N nut is a convenience, that only works if the filter wasn't used in that locktite commercial. Since it's stamped into the same sheetmetal as the rest of the filter body, there's not much in the way of mechanical strength to prevent it getting distorted. the only reason it holds up at all, is due to the complex shape it's stamped in. All those 90° bends stiffen it up to a degree.

All of these designs have limited purchase area, with the location of the filter on my '09. There's a gutter sort of arrangement under it, which sticks out from the case to aim any drips away from the motor. That gutter interferes with almost every filter wrench design I have tried -- limits the depth to which I can 'grab' the filter.

All of this has proven to be such a PITA, that I have resorted to the channel lock approach. The only merit of this is that I know it works, every time. I can only get about 1/8th of a turn, so I generally have to do it 2-3 times to break a filter free -- but it gets me where I need to be. My plastic filter end cap 'socket', I use to get that 1/4 turn past contact after I install the new filter. any more torque on the thing than that, and it distorts and pops off the filter.
It sounds like you've got the approach that works for you, RJ. Necessity is, after all, the mother of invention.

Perhaps, instead of designing a better mousetrap, I should try to design an oil filter that doesn't make us emit howls of anguish and the loss of layers of flesh from our knuckles?

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post #24 of 33 Old 04-15-2017, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twistee View Post
I wouldn't want to crush the filter unless it's necessary. It's not the body that's the problem, but the screw-on base getting stuck. The nut at the end of a filter is largely pointless (no pun intended) if there's nothing to send the torque further down to the base. All that happens is the thin shell crushing and tearing which causes even more woe. My focus is the base rather than the body of the filter.

Of course, this is all a moot point if you don't attach your oil filter like you're trying to demonstrate the latest Loctite product.
The issue is that from the factory Kawasaki seems to put the filter on insanely tight. Even with vice grips I couldn't twist it off.

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post #25 of 33 Old 04-15-2017, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gawernator View Post
The issue is that from the factory Kawasaki seems to put the filter on insanely tight. Even with vice grips I couldn't twist it off.
If you buy a bike new, you typically get a first service (including oil and filter) after 500 miles. This would indicate that it's not the factory so much as the empty-skulled intern mechanic who feels the need to apply so much torque that it's a wonder the threads on the mount don't strip.

If you do every single service yourself
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1999 ZX6R (G2) - Pipewerx exhaust (dB killer removed) | Dynojet Stage 1 | K&N air filter | flushmount front LED indicators | Clear LED tail light with integrated indicators | Scottoiler eSystem | Pyramid Plastics hugger | HID headlight | Stubby levers | HEL braided steel lines | 07 ZX6R radial master cylinder | Bar-end mirrors | Double-bubble screen | Crash bobbins | one hell of an anal-retentive owner.
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post #26 of 33 Old 04-15-2017, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twistee View Post
If you buy a bike new, you typically get a first service (including oil and filter) after 500 miles. This would indicate that it's not the factory so much as the empty-skulled intern mechanic who feels the need to apply so much torque that it's a wonder the threads on the mount don't strip.

If you do every single service yourself
No it was the factory. Did my first oil change at 598 miles

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post #27 of 33 Old 04-16-2017, 07:55 AM
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I was taught contact, plus at least 1/4 turn.....
Many bikes specifically state;
contact plus 1 full turn,
contact plus 1.5 full turns and even
contact plus 2 full turns...............

I would not think 1/4 turn is enough ever.......... but I also safety wire every oil filter, even my car and truck

Stupid people say stupid things on the internet, so be wary of who those people are. If you solicit advice on the internet, just keep in mind 99% of what you'll receive is not based on fact or science-and likely atleast 95% of it is based on bullshit and bravado regurgitated from some other schlub who also did not experience any of what they claim and are also full of shit. If you don't like my bluntness- too bad. I am not here to please you, so move along, your approval is not desired nor is it needed. So before opening your pie hole and adding more stupidity, perhaps sit back, listen, absorb and learn something. You know that saying, it is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt!
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post #28 of 33 Old 04-18-2017, 02:25 PM
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I bought my ZX-6R brand new, and I did the first oil change myself at ~60 miles. I had to use the screwdriver method to remove the factory installed oil filter. I only hand tighten my filters, and I haven't had any issues since. I use Purolator PurONE PL14612 oil filters.

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post #29 of 33 Old 04-18-2017, 02:30 PM
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In light of this anecdotal evidence, I stand corrected.

Even so, if you need anything beyond your own hands to remove an oil filter, it was put on too bloody tight!

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1999 ZX6R (G2) - Pipewerx exhaust (dB killer removed) | Dynojet Stage 1 | K&N air filter | flushmount front LED indicators | Clear LED tail light with integrated indicators | Scottoiler eSystem | Pyramid Plastics hugger | HID headlight | Stubby levers | HEL braided steel lines | 07 ZX6R radial master cylinder | Bar-end mirrors | Double-bubble screen | Crash bobbins | one hell of an anal-retentive owner.
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post #30 of 33 Old 04-18-2017, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strider View Post
I bought my ZX-6R brand new, and I did the first oil change myself at ~60 miles. I had to use the screwdriver method to remove the factory installed oil filter. I only hand tighten my filters, and I haven't had any issues since. I use Purolator PurONE PL14612 oil filters.
Keep lookin for that oil, eventually you will see it. Like the man said, hand tight is not gonna be enough.
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