STUCK oil filter!!!! WTF?!?! Can I heat it? - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 33 Old 04-12-2017, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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STUCK oil filter!!!! WTF?!?! Can I heat it?

Hey guys,

So I'm doing the final preps to get my girl back out on the street and I go for the oil change, drain the oil...etc. but my friggen K&N filter is like WELDED on there.

I've tried everything, oil filter wrench, vice grips, that god damn shitty 17 mm bolt instantly stripped.

Would it hurt to heat up the filter to try and remove it? Heating causes expansion...maybe it'll work? Anyone heated up a filter before and did it work?
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post #2 of 33 Old 04-12-2017, 08:55 AM
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Dont heat the filter. Thats not going to end well. Take the fairing off of that side. Shove a screwdriver all the way through the filter and turn. One of two things will happen:

1) Filter comes off

2) Filter comes off in pieces with out the threaded end at which point you use vice grips to get the rest of that fucker off

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post #3 of 33 Old 04-12-2017, 08:58 AM
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I use a pair of channel lock pliers across the end of the can.... open the jaws up until you can squeeze it across the end, and let them crush into the can. That will give you enough leverage to twist the filter and break it free. You might have to repeat it once or twice to get the gasket to break free.

It will mangle the end of the old filter.... but you don't really need to be concerned with that.

When the filter does come off, make D@MN sure, the O ring comes off as well. You don't want to have a stack of them on the case, it will never seal.

When you install the replacement, use some of the old oil to lubricate the new filter's O ring so it won't cook onto the case and cause this grief the next time.
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post #4 of 33 Old 04-12-2017, 09:53 AM
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Yep Like RJ said.. Channel locks..

My K+N worthless nut that would not fit any socket properly just rounded off.
Used a Large set of channel locks, crushed the hell out of the filter getting a good bite, So use a oil drip pan under it when taking off..
Going back on, don't use a K+N many issues lately with them leaking at bad welds. A dab of oil on the O-ring and hand tight.
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post #5 of 33 Old 04-12-2017, 11:01 AM
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The nut on the end of the filters work well if you don't tighten it to 70 ft lbs of torque. Oh and fill the filter with oil before you put it on. It lubes the threads and primes the oil pump in one action.
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post #6 of 33 Old 04-12-2017, 12:18 PM
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I have no idea why people feel the need to torque down an oil filter to outrageous levels.

Add <technical term> a dollop </technical term> to the new filter and a smear of oil to the o-ring. Install only hand-tight (assuming you don't have the grip strength of a steroid-enhanced gorilla speedlining PCP).

I recall spending over twelve hours (!) under a car with a mallet and drift s-l-o-w-l-y removing the metal bracket of an oil filter after using the screwdriver method, because whatever chimp had installed the last one had gotten VERY overenthusiastic.
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1999 ZX6R (G2) - Pipewerx exhaust (dB killer removed) | Dynojet Stage 1 | K&N air filter | flushmount front LED indicators | Clear LED tail light with integrated indicators | Scottoiler eSystem | Pyramid Plastics hugger | HID headlight | Stubby levers | HEL braided steel lines | 07 ZX6R radial master cylinder | Bar-end mirrors | Double-bubble screen | Crash bobbins | one hell of an anal-retentive owner.
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post #7 of 33 Old 04-12-2017, 01:05 PM
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Screwdriver method has worked for me through 2 filters, the stock filter and a K & N that rounded off. Usually need to hammer it through the middle or else it'll start peeling the outside of the filter. I don't have channel locks so never tried that.

As far as heat, I wouldn't go any further then maybe trying to let the bike sit in the sun.
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post #8 of 33 Old 04-12-2017, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ2112 View Post
I use a pair of channel lock pliers across the end of the can.... open the jaws up until you can squeeze it across the end, and let them crush into the can. That will give you enough leverage to twist the filter and break it free. You might have to repeat it once or twice to get the gasket to break free.

It will mangle the end of the old filter.... but you don't really need to be concerned with that.

When the filter does come off, make D@MN sure, the O ring comes off as well. You don't want to have a stack of them on the case, it will never seal.

When you install the replacement, use some of the old oil to lubricate the new filter's O ring so it won't cook onto the case and cause this grief the next time.
What worked for me was crushing the filter with vice grips, then attaching more vice grips to the first vice grips and using that as a lever to spin it off. Factory gorilla tight. FYI guys hand tight isn't tight enough for our bike according to the service manual.
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post #9 of 33 Old 04-13-2017, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twistee View Post
I have no idea why people feel the need to torque down an oil filter to outrageous levels.

Add <technical term> a dollop </technical term> to the new filter and a smear of oil to the o-ring. Install only hand-tight (assuming you don't have the grip strength of a steroid-enhanced gorilla speedlining PCP).

I recall spending over twelve hours (!) under a car with a mallet and drift s-l-o-w-l-y removing the metal bracket of an oil filter after using the screwdriver method, because whatever chimp had installed the last one had gotten VERY overenthusiastic.

I both lubed the filter and then hand tightened that sucker (not with the strength of a troglodyte), just normal hand tightened. I'm perplexed as to why this thing is stuck so severely.
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post #10 of 33 Old 04-13-2017, 12:14 PM
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Some people go crazy with their thinking that an oil filter needs to be fastened with crazy levels of torque so that only the turbine of an oil tanker could remove it.

Are you terrified and screw down the filler cap to insane levels too? No? So what makes you think your oil filter is going to be fired across the road from firing up the engine after a change?
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-------------------------------------------------------------

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1999 ZX6R (G2) - Pipewerx exhaust (dB killer removed) | Dynojet Stage 1 | K&N air filter | flushmount front LED indicators | Clear LED tail light with integrated indicators | Scottoiler eSystem | Pyramid Plastics hugger | HID headlight | Stubby levers | HEL braided steel lines | 07 ZX6R radial master cylinder | Bar-end mirrors | Double-bubble screen | Crash bobbins | one hell of an anal-retentive owner.
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post #11 of 33 Old 04-13-2017, 01:29 PM
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Hand tight is never enough for me. You gotta do a bit more than that. Not much but more. I had a filter on my car back off enough to start pouring oil but luckily I caught it before it leaked too much. Thanks Jiffy Lube.
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post #12 of 33 Old 04-13-2017, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the prophet View Post
Hand tight is never enough for me. You gotta do a bit more than that. Not much but more. I had a filter on my car back off enough to start pouring oil but luckily I caught it before it leaked too much. Thanks Jiffy Lube.
The problem with "hand tight" is that there's no actual definition. It depends on your own strength. That said, the only time I've ever needed a filter wrench is to get one off.

The advantage we have is that we can detect leaks, unusual noises, etc far more readily than with a car. Most car drivers don't bother to take any notice unless a warning light flashes up. If you've got a leaking oil filter, that back end slide as it's coating your wheels is usually a lot more effective an indicator that there's a leak than any warning light.

-------------------------------------------------------------

The best advice I ever received was "Just look pretty and try not to break anything."

1999 ZX6R (G2) - Pipewerx exhaust (dB killer removed) | Dynojet Stage 1 | K&N air filter | flushmount front LED indicators | Clear LED tail light with integrated indicators | Scottoiler eSystem | Pyramid Plastics hugger | HID headlight | Stubby levers | HEL braided steel lines | 07 ZX6R radial master cylinder | Bar-end mirrors | Double-bubble screen | Crash bobbins | one hell of an anal-retentive owner.
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post #13 of 33 Old 04-13-2017, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the prophet View Post
Hand tight is never enough for me. You gotta do a bit more than that. Not much but more. ...................
I was taught contact, plus at least 1/4 turn.....
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"There's this adage that we have 2 ears and one mouth so we should listen twice as much as we talk. Unfortunately with the Internet people have taken this old adage and turned it around. They have two eyes and 10 fingers so they think they need to post 5 times as much as they read. And since they have 10 fingers and one brain, they only have to think 10% of the time! "
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post #14 of 33 Old 04-13-2017, 02:46 PM
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a filter strap is a good thin to use ,i sometimes get them tight on hgv truks semis in usa language ,they get that tight that i got to use a 1/2 breaker bar with a filter strap so it will fuck that filter off https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rc...92206307796596

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post #15 of 33 Old 04-13-2017, 05:43 PM
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The manual specifies 17 N-m

If you're worried about it loosening put a hose clamp on it and then safety wire to a fixed point.
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