First, thanks for taking the time to do the project.
On your problem, check the manual. Confirm crank sensor is working.
Also on my bike I have a cam sensor, confirm it's working.
Get on the R6 forum, ask them for some help as in GOOD WORKING PARTS to swap out to eliminate items.
Can you send me the PDF of the electrical section, and troubleshooting section of your bike.
Since your getting voltage to the coil and not getting spark the ECU is either bad or isn't getting something it wants to fire a cylinder.
Should be able to prove the sensors they will be open, close readings on the ohm meter.
Lastly, because of what your doing. I would without one seconds hesitation contact a local service department. Tell them what your doing.
If you would be happy to post up anytime, anywhere that the SO and SO dealer supports these kids. This should be a pretty simple project, you don't want there labor just some phone time. Great community relations and warm fuzzy's for all involved.
So, most of these things I have actually tried.
I have the manual and have been using it extensively. However, either I'm missing something (definitely possible) or there isn't really any instruction on how to check whether sensors are behaving properly. And I don't know enough about how they work to do it without any instruction.
The R6 forum is somewhere I've spent some time, but they are neither as active nor as helpful as you lot. So in terms of getting help there, I've essentially struck out: R6 Forum Thread
My thought was exactly the same as what you are proposing - if the coils are getting power, but the plugs aren't sparking, then there must be something causing them not to receive the go-ahead signal - either a sensor telling the ECU not to spark or the ECU itself screwing up. Is that basically what you're getting at? Anyone care to correct that impression?
With the various sensors, any way to know whether they are supposed to be open or closed in order to allow starting?
I have contacted every service shop in town and absolutely nobody has been willing to come in and teach me/my kids how to troubleshoot our way through this, let me bring them things to test for us, anything...nobody at any of the repair shops has been willing to donate anything at all including minor supplies, time, service, anything...probably the most disappointing part of this project for me. We have been met with such generosity elsewhere and to be completely shut down in this area is somewhat depressing...
What I have attached is the diagram for the continuity that all the switches should have. Most of the troubleshooting in the manual is related to this diagram. However, I don't know how to test continuity with my multimeter - I'm not sure what they mean by "continuity." Does that just mean that there should be little to no resistance there?
Again, thanks to all for all the help so far and thanks in advance for the help that's still coming!