636 running lean w/a powercommander - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 05-13-2017, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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636 running lean w/a powercommander

I'm looking for someone who really knows these fuel injected bikes.As mine is running lean and haven't been able to figure out why.I'ved tried to contact a guy named Rivers w/no response and am wondering if there's anybody else who mine be able to point me in the right direction
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post #2 of 9 Old 05-13-2017, 04:34 PM
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What map are you running? What mods are on the bike to need a power commander?


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Wrecked/Sold: 2005 Kawasaki zx-6r 636, 15k mi, k&n air filter, muzzy titanium slip-on, jumper mod, servo eliminator, core moto trans blue SS brake lines, michelin pilot power 2ct front and back, gloss black powder coated rear sets.

The new: 2005 zx-6r 636, Magma Red, 21k mi, full muzzys exhaust, PCIII, k&n air filter, laggy a servo eliminator, jumper mod, core moto trans red brake lines, gloss black powder coated rear sets.
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post #3 of 9 Old 05-14-2017, 05:29 AM
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..... more importantly, how do you know it's running lean?
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post #4 of 9 Old 05-14-2017, 07:43 PM
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What they said and to add.
Was it lean before PC..

Mod's done and tune loaded.

What year bike Which PC and does it have autotune installed.
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post #5 of 9 Old 05-20-2017, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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I did the air into the exhaust port delete,sprint air filter ,Muzzy pipe.When I got the power commander it was set at Zero.Put it on the bike and went for a rode test.I didn't even get out of the driveway.The bike wouldn't accelerate.Thought maybe the power commander was screwed up put it back to stock.Way worse. I did adjust the valves found them all over the place.Set the intakes to .009 and the exhaust to .025 mm.Cams are timed right because I one 1 tooth off and couldn't turn the only so far one way or the other and it would stop.I got the stuff to adjust the settings in the power commander and starter out looking at other maps for a base line and starter there.Rode the bike still very much more than 5000 rpms and it would lay over.I kept pushing the fuel to it until it stopped making a difference still starts laying over about 5500 and won't pull to 7000.Now 2 falls ago I moved to a different storage rode about 4 miles and started losing power and the bike finally quit.I could hear the fuel pump not priming.So I took it apart on the side of the road and found the metal bowl full of rust.I clean all the rust out and flushed with VP 12.Put it back together and no issues.Bought a new pump and put it in.Didn't check fuel pressure.and I haven't done a plug check.I took the injectors out to see if any of the rust had made into them and didn't see anything.I did find one of the boots for the throttle bodies folded over and I straighten that out but that didn't do anything for it.I just now ordered o-rings for the fuel rail as they leaked when I put it back together ,new injector seals, new mounting boots and new vacuum caps for all the stuff I removed associated w/the air injection.I'm going to put it together,do a plug check before I run it and spray ether to see if I have any vacuum leaks. I'ved tried and tried to get ahold of rivers to see if there a place that can calibrate the injector so there all the same and not just clean them but he has never got back to me.Also this bike has sat 7 years because of a crash.I got all the panels replaced and now want to ride it.There diffidently something screwy because with fuel curve I have in it it's getting about 10 mpg.I tapped the upper port and put a plug in it for the block off for the air injection.'04 636
Thank You
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post #6 of 9 Old 05-27-2017, 05:42 AM Thread Starter
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I have the power commander 3 and went to the power commander site and downloaded the tune for for a muzzy pipe and then added it from there.Went I put the bike away it was fine.I adjusted the valves and plugged the exh. air injection ports with plugs and made sure that they were below the mounting surface and removed all the associated pieces for that system.Plugged the vacuum ports on the throttle bodies and added a sprint air filter.I had rust in the fuel bowl of the fuel pump when I put it away so I replaced the fuel pump.I installed the power commanded w/o any tune in it( the guy I bought it from that he would put a tune it and didn't)tried to ride the bike and didn't get it outta 3rd because it was so lean.Took the power commander off as maybe that was causing a problem and I didn't get outta 1st gear on the next test ride.Got the connections so I could adjust the settings in the power commander and I put the Muzzy tune in it and test rode it was slightly better.I checked over my installation of the throttle bodies and found 1 of the boots folded over so I straighten that out but it didn't do much.I kept adding fuel to the tune until I thought I was at a ridiculous amount .Rode the bike to work and back and it is still lean starts at 5500 and won't rev past 7500.I am waiting on new throttle body boots,o-ring,vacuum plugs,and all the seals and o-rings for the injectors as I took them off to see if the rust had migrated to them.I didn't see anything and was looking for a company that could flow them but all I found were companies that could clean and see what they flowed,which to me is senseless if you can't equalize the flow rate.So after I put the injectors back on I have a fuel leak so after I get the parts and put it back together I'm going to do a plug check and put a mercury gauge on it to see if there are any big differences as I have set the throttle bodies so they are as equal as possible
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post #7 of 9 Old 05-28-2017, 02:35 AM
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Wow, you are all over the place. Let's take it back a notch.

1) just because it wont go over 7k rpm does not mean it is lean.
2) I am a little concerned about someone who is able to check their own valve clearances but does't know that you cant ride a PC without a map. I mean absolutely no offense here but without knowing your prior experience I might say that this is the time to take your bike to a shop before you go any further down the rabbit hole.
3) with all the time and $ you have put into throwing parts at this bike, it would have been cheaper to take it to a dyno and get a proper tune although at this point I doubt that the PC map is the issue. It sounds like you have something mechanically wrong.

My advice is to get it to a shop, preferably one with a dyno so they can fix the running issue and also tune your bike in the process. Be prepared to spend some $.
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post #8 of 9 Old 05-28-2017, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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Well when I bought the pc it was suppose to have the right map in it.It wasn't until the bike didn't run right that I got what I needed to see what was in it.And so far I haven't found anyone with any experience in my area to take it to that's why I'm asking on here.And the local dyno shop that comes up nobody knows if he knows anything about injected bikes as he does drag cars.I am an old drag racer who has built ALL my own stuff from the tires to the paint,engines ,transmissions and rear ends so this doesn't scare at all it's just finding someone who is familiar with trouble shooting this issue which I am not afraid to say that I am not familiar with.But I hopefully will find someone to help or I will get it on my own.But thank you for the advise and as far as the lean part thats just something you learn over the years of tuning things and as I add more % fuel to the map the bike does respond but it should way to rich at the point I'm at right now.Like I said there's really no one in this area that is familiar with a fuel injected bike or I wouldn't be here asking all of you for your thoughts from your experience
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post #9 of 9 Old 05-28-2017, 08:23 AM
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It isn't the map!

With just a slip on and an air filter the bike would run perfectly fine (slightly lean) without a pc at all (nothing else you did would require jetting changes)

So

You say the tank is rusty and the bottom of the fule pump pick up was full of rust......... Besides "rinsing" the tank of the loose rust have you done anythning to actually stop the rust from continuing to be the problem?

The cam timing you had one tooth off and couldn't turn the engine over........ Are you sure it is correct now, one tooth off one direction- yep the valves hit, one tooth off the other direction...nope they do not (true on either cam on that bike)

Bike sat for 7+ years......... Have you checked everything else electronic? Have you checked compression and done a leak down test?

Finally just because you have worked on some cars, doesn't mean shit about having actual knowledge about anything motorcycle.......I have dozens of ASE certified car mechanics as customers who all think they are great mechanics.......none of them know dick shit about motorcycles!!!

Dyno at this time is likely way premature! Although it is useful tool in diagnosing, but to try and jet the bike when you have major issues is a waste of time and money!

and you tried contacting me how

Stupid people say stupid things on the internet, so be wary of who those people are. If you solicit advice on the internet, just keep in mind 99% of what you'll receive is not based on fact or science-and likely atleast 95% of it is based on bullshit and bravado regurgitated from some other schlub who also did not experience any of what they claim and are also full of shit. If you don't like my bluntness- too bad. I am not here to please you, so move along, your approval is not desired nor is it needed. So before opening your pie hole and adding more stupidity, perhaps sit back, listen, absorb and learn something. You know that saying, it is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt!
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