Rpms won't go higher than 8k - Page 3 - ZX6R Forum
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post #31 of 75 Old 07-21-2016, 06:14 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by zxnick View Post
got it. will do
Alright! so, current update. not sure if i've solved the problem yet. I disconnected the power commander and took the bike out for a spin. first gear it revved SUPER smooth and went well past 8k rpm. it felt so much quicker than before and very smooth. same thing in 2nd and third gear. then I came back and parked the bike. I took the bike out a second time and it was acting exactly how it did before. stopping at 8k rpm in every gear. so I brought the bike back. I've been working with my roommate on this. he's very mechanically inclined so he's been a great help. so we were looking under the seat and noticed the exhaust valve would kinda move weirdly every time the bike started and would move a little when i revved it. i know the valve is supposed to move but it was very awkward and not smooth moving at all. the whole valve assembly was very loose. but, we also noticed no cables going to it. (the seller probably took them off to eliminate it, but never used a servo dummy clip on (servo buddy) or jumper mod.

so i researched like crazy on this specific situation and everyone who unplugged the cables from the exhaust valve either had a servo buddy or dummied it by jumping cables.

i did a diagnostic test and the FI light came back with a code 63.

so i placed a small wire to jump the cable connector. SEE THE EXAMPLE PHOTO I ATTACHED. it isn't a picture i took, but it's exactly what i did. it's supposed to be a like a dummy sensor to return the signal back to the ecu saying all is good here. instead of the signal coming from the ecu and dying out because there was nothing at the end of that cable.

so i'm going to start her up after work today and see how she does. maybe this will be the fix.
Rpms won't go higher than 8k-jumpmod1.jpg
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post #32 of 75 Old 07-21-2016, 06:28 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by zxnick View Post
Alright! so, current update. not sure if i've solved the problem yet. I disconnected the power commander and took the bike out for a spin. first gear it revved SUPER smooth and went well past 8k rpm. it felt so much quicker than before and very smooth. same thing in 2nd and third gear. then I came back and parked the bike. I took the bike out a second time and it was acting exactly how it did before. stopping at 8k rpm in every gear. so I brought the bike back. I've been working with my roommate on this. he's very mechanically inclined so he's been a great help. so we were looking under the seat and noticed the exhaust valve would kinda move weirdly every time the bike started and would move a little when i revved it. i know the valve is supposed to move but it was very awkward and not smooth moving at all. the whole valve assembly was very loose. but, we also noticed no cables going to it. (the seller probably took them off to eliminate it, but never used a servo dummy clip on (servo buddy) or jumper mod.

so i researched like crazy on this specific situation and everyone who unplugged the cables from the exhaust valve either had a servo buddy or dummied it by jumping cables.

i did a diagnostic test and the FI light came back with a code 63.

so i placed a small wire to jump the cable connector. SEE THE EXAMPLE PHOTO I ATTACHED. it isn't a picture i took, but it's exactly what i did. it's supposed to be a like a dummy sensor to return the signal back to the ecu saying all is good here. instead of the signal coming from the ecu and dying out because there was nothing at the end of that cable.

so i'm going to start her up after work today and see how she does. maybe this will be the fix.
Attachment 41105
i don't know. it could be no help at all the rpm problem. what is really weird is how the bike hit higher rpms with the power commander off. then once i stopped, started her again and rode her again, it went back to fucking up. it was intermittent
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post #33 of 75 Old 07-21-2016, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zxnick View Post
Alright! so, current update. not sure if i've solved the problem yet. I disconnected the power commander and took the bike out for a spin. first gear it revved SUPER smooth and went well past 8k rpm. it felt so much quicker than before and very smooth. same thing in 2nd and third gear. then I came back and parked the bike. I took the bike out a second time and it was acting exactly how it did before. stopping at 8k rpm in every gear. so I brought the bike back. I've been working with my roommate on this. he's very mechanically inclined so he's been a great help. so we were looking under the seat and noticed the exhaust valve would kinda move weirdly every time the bike started and would move a little when i revved it. i know the valve is supposed to move but it was very awkward and not smooth moving at all. the whole valve assembly was very loose. but, we also noticed no cables going to it. (the seller probably took them off to eliminate it, but never used a servo dummy clip on (servo buddy) or jumper mod.

so i researched like crazy on this specific situation and everyone who unplugged the cables from the exhaust valve either had a servo buddy or dummied it by jumping cables.

i did a diagnostic test and the FI light came back with a code 63.

so i placed a small wire to jump the cable connector. SEE THE EXAMPLE PHOTO I ATTACHED. it isn't a picture i took, but it's exactly what i did. it's supposed to be a like a dummy sensor to return the signal back to the ecu saying all is good here. instead of the signal coming from the ecu and dying out because there was nothing at the end of that cable.

so i'm going to start her up after work today and see how she does. maybe this will be the fix.
Attachment 41105
I'd suggest you remove that wire you put there...Kawis want either the servo motor plugged or a servo eliminator.
Also, if you just unplug the exhaust servo and run the bike, the only sideeffect you should have is an FI light and nothing more.Bike should run normal.You said there are no cables going to the servo at all?Don't mess with that.It's not the problem.
Fueling is you issue and since it run nice while it was still cold...Is it really a 2006 or a 2005? Seems like a fried ECU situation. 2005 models kept having strange issues when bike got hot, after some time riding and it was the ECUs' fault.
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post #34 of 75 Old 07-21-2016, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MrZ View Post
I'd suggest you remove that wire you put there...Kawis want either the servo motor plugged or a servo eliminator.
Also, if you just unplug the exhaust servo and run the bike, the only sideeffect you should have is an FI light and nothing more.Bike should run normal.You said there are no cables going to the servo at all?Don't mess with that.It's not the problem.
Fueling is you issue and since it run nice while it was still cold...Is it really a 2006 or a 2005? Seems like a fried ECU situation. 2005 models kept having strange issues when bike got hot, after some time riding and it was the ECUs' fault.
Yeah I'm starting to realize it's most likely a fuel issue. It's definitely an 06. should I test the fuel pump? The voltage and check and make sure it's clean?
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post #35 of 75 Old 07-21-2016, 11:22 PM
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The exhaust butterfly valve is spring-loaded to go to the fully open position when there are no cables attached to it. If it is stuck in any other position for any strange reason, then fix it.

Did u test out the secondary fuel injectors?
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post #36 of 75 Old 07-22-2016, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Scorpi0 View Post
The exhaust butterfly valve is spring-loaded to go to the fully open position when there are no cables attached to it. If it is stuck in any other position for any strange reason, then fix it.

Did u test out the secondary fuel injectors?
So I just took the bike out with the bypass wire. Bike revved smooth and hit 9k, then I let off the throttle a little bit and it went up to 13k, where I let off the throttle because I was going 70 in a 40 at that point. It did the same thing in 2nd. Went up to 8-9k, I let off the throttle a little bit and it climbed up again. I did not test the injectors yet. I don't have the resources at home. My roommate works at a fuel injection shop for race engines. He said they can flow them for me.
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post #37 of 75 Old 07-23-2016, 06:16 AM
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Its your fuel pump, im willing to bet. $30 online all over. Take tank off, pull sending unit from tank, disassemble to get to pump, replace, & put back together. I can do it in 30 minutes. Might take an hour the first go around.

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post #38 of 75 Old 08-05-2016, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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Its your fuel pump, im willing to bet. $30 online all over. Take tank off, pull sending unit from tank, disassemble to get to pump, replace, & put back together. I can do it in 30 minutes. Might take an hour the first go around.
so i finally had time to work on the bike and replace the fuel pump. so, i emptied the fuel tank into a clean fuel canister that my roommate had, i did it by running the ORIGINAL fuel pump to pump the gas into the canister. the pump was pumping fine into the canister. to pump the fuel, i turned the key on until the gas stopped pumping, then turned the key off, then repeated that until i had only a little fuel left in the tank. i did this to make replacing the fuel pump easier with a close to empty tank. first question, if the pump itself was the issue, would it still be able to pump fuel like that?

i got my replacement pump in a couple days ago. i pulled off my original pump. the fuel strainer looked a little jammed up, but wasn't clogged. only a little debris was on the strainer.

the new fuel pump fuel strainer is a little bigger than the original one. i'm worried about it being too big and getting kinda jammed up in the metal base.

any thoughts?
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post #39 of 75 Old 08-08-2016, 06:30 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by zxnick View Post
so i finally had time to work on the bike and replace the fuel pump. so, i emptied the fuel tank into a clean fuel canister that my roommate had, i did it by running the ORIGINAL fuel pump to pump the gas into the canister. the pump was pumping fine into the canister. to pump the fuel, i turned the key on until the gas stopped pumping, then turned the key off, then repeated that until i had only a little fuel left in the tank. i did this to make replacing the fuel pump easier with a close to empty tank. first question, if the pump itself was the issue, would it still be able to pump fuel like that?

i got my replacement pump in a couple days ago. i pulled off my original pump. the fuel strainer looked a little jammed up, but wasn't clogged. only a little debris was on the strainer.

the new fuel pump fuel strainer is a little bigger than the original one. i'm worried about it being too big and getting kinda jammed up in the metal base.

any thoughts?

I replaced the fuel pump yesterday. started the bike up in the garage, revved it in neutral and it went all the way to redline no problem. shut it off. repeated that a couple times and the rpms were fine. took the bike out and it started doing the same fuckin thing again. bike throttle would stop responding at around 8k rpms. i would let off the throttle a hair, and the rpms would climb a little further. but, the problem is still here. I'm getting my injectors flowed probably next week, but fuck man. its frustrating
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post #40 of 75 Old 08-08-2016, 07:04 PM
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Did you do the following?

1) bypass kick stand safety switch then take a ride (vibration could cut spark)
2) take a ride with the gas cap cracked open to make sure its venting
3) warm up your coil to around engine temperature in an oven or something and check that the resistance is still within spec
4) the problem appears to manifest when there is load or heat. Two things that happens while riding.
5) another option is your injectors may be partially clogged and with load more fuel is needed
6)and stop just replacing part, we said check your fuel pump, if everything looked good why change it.
7) with stupid gremlins like yours it can be fuel or spark that is the problem. They will look a like under certain situations. Check then eliminate if everything check out. Start with easy quick checks to more complicated ones.
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post #41 of 75 Old 08-11-2016, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Sabotage View Post
Did you do the following?

1) bypass kick stand safety switch then take a ride (vibration could cut spark)
2) take a ride with the gas cap cracked open to make sure its venting
3) warm up your coil to around engine temperature in an oven or something and check that the resistance is still within spec
4) the problem appears to manifest when there is load or heat. Two things that happens while riding.
5) another option is your injectors may be partially clogged and with load more fuel is needed
6)and stop just replacing part, we said check your fuel pump, if everything looked good why change it.
7) with stupid gremlins like yours it can be fuel or spark that is the problem. They will look a like under certain situations. Check then eliminate if everything check out. Start with easy quick checks to more complicated ones.
How do I bypass the stand safety switch? I attached a photo. Do I cut the cord and tie the wires together? The rpms go straight to redline no problem in neutral by the way.
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post #42 of 75 Old 08-11-2016, 04:02 PM
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I'm not sure what bike you have, but you should be able to trace that wire away from the kick stand that connects to a connector. Unplug it and if it's only two wires you just bridge the wires from the connector coming from the wire harness side. Take it for a spin to make sure your not shorting with the excess vibration while in motion. Real simple and quick check.
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post #43 of 75 Old 08-11-2016, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Sabotage View Post
I'm not sure what bike you have, but you should be able to trace that wire away from the kick stand that connects to a connector. Unplug it and if it's only two wires you just bridge the wires from the connector coming from the wire harness side. Take it for a spin to make sure your not shorting with the excess vibration while in motion. Real simple and quick check.
2006 zx6r 636. But yeah I'm having a hard time locating where it's connected to. I don't want to pull too much of the bike apart if I can jump it where it connects to the kickstand. But I'll see again if I can find it without moving too much
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post #44 of 75 Old 08-11-2016, 05:04 PM
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I would almost bet money that it has something to do with a sensor. I know that when my bike was apart and I was synching the carbs I had the air sensor off which caused an FI light. It wouldn't run above 8k like yours. When I plugged that sensor back in it revved to the moon.

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post #45 of 75 Old 08-11-2016, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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I would almost bet money that it has something to do with a sensor. I know that when my bike was apart and I was synching the carbs I had the air sensor off which caused an FI light. It wouldn't run above 8k like yours. When I plugged that sensor back in it revved to the moon.
Well my bike definitely has improved since I replaced the fuel pump. It primes much faster than before, and I can hit power band in first and second gear on the main roads. It doesn't struggle either. It's when I'm on the highway at 60-70 mph in 4th or so gear that it struggles. It's not flatlining anymore, if I stay on it the bike will move up to 9-10k rpms. But it definitely won't go to redline with how much throttle input I'm giving.
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