Rpms won't go higher than 8k - Page 4 - ZX6R Forum
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post #46 of 75 Old 08-12-2016, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by PowerGroove View Post
I would almost bet money that it has something to do with a sensor. I know that when my bike was apart and I was synching the CARBS I had the air sensor off which caused an FI light. It wouldn't run above 8k like yours. When I plugged that sensor back in it revved to the moon.
Carbs?!
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post #47 of 75 Old 08-12-2016, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Duc995 View Post
Carbs?!
yeah mine's injected, so i'm not sure if that situation would be related to mine. but i do agree a sensor issue makes sense.
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post #48 of 75 Old 08-22-2016, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Sabotage View Post
I'm not sure what bike you have, but you should be able to trace that wire away from the kick stand that connects to a connector. Unplug it and if it's only two wires you just bridge the wires from the connector coming from the wire harness side. Take it for a spin to make sure your not shorting with the excess vibration while in motion. Real simple and quick check.
so Im pretty sure I found out what's going on.

my bike went completely back to stopping at 8-9k rpms.

the tank was venting fine, i bypassed the kickstand sensor, that was fine. no coil issue.

however. i ran a diagnostic test because the FI light came back on. i got code 32 and 62. and then 62 was the only code i got. secondary throttle valve actuator. malfunctioning. well, every time i turn the bike on, the secondary throttle chugs and chugs and chugs sometimes for a very long time before it finally stops. if i start the bike before the secondary throttle valve is done grinding, the bike will idle horribly. so i tested the resistance on the secondary throttle valve and it was fine. no resistance. but i do know the throttle plates are fucked up with that noise.

now it could also be the ecu that's malfunctioning. so, i ordered a throttle sensor tester where I can connect from the ecu to the secondary throttle actuator and test the voltage between the two with my meter. that way i can figure out if it's the ecu or the secondary throttle that is bad.

so either my ecu is bad, or the secondary throttle actuator is bad. either way the fix is going to cost a shit ton of money unless i buy used.

i just don't understand why the secondary throttle valve wasn't making noises after I replaced the fuel pump. and then after a week or so, it went back to being fucked. the intermittant-ness of it is weird.

but nonetheless, i'm so annoyed. maybe this is why the seller sold his bike. i don't know. but its discouraging and frustrating as hell because i purposely waited about a month until i even attempted to ride above 6-7 rpms. to take my time. the moment i was ready it wouldn't go. and now even though im still riding and getting good practice in all the time, its really frustrating knowing my bike isn't running to it's full potential. maybe it's a good thing though. maybe the problem was here so if i did impatiently go past my limits, i wouldn't be able to hit the powerband or anything.

i just want this to be taken care of before the season turns.

has anyone had a problem with this issue?
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post #49 of 75 Old 08-22-2016, 02:13 PM
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If your secondary throttle valves are acting up, it could be possible they are going to a closed position when riding, choking the engine off from air. Try this: When you first turn the key and the secondary valves are doing their test, disconnect the electrical plug so they stop in the fully open position. Keep the plug disconnected and take the bike for a ride. See if it acts up again.
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post #50 of 75 Old 08-23-2016, 05:58 AM Thread Starter
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If your secondary throttle valves are acting up, it could be possible they are going to a closed position when riding, choking the engine off from air. Try this: When you first turn the key and the secondary valves are doing their test, disconnect the electrical plug so they stop in the fully open position. Keep the plug disconnected and take the bike for a ride. See if it acts up again.
ahh that's genius. i will try that. thanks!
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post #51 of 75 Old 08-27-2016, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Scorpi0 View Post
If your secondary throttle valves are acting up, it could be possible they are going to a closed position when riding, choking the engine off from air. Try this: When you first turn the key and the secondary valves are doing their test, disconnect the electrical plug so they stop in the fully open position. Keep the plug disconnected and take the bike for a ride. See if it acts up again.
see the below link. this is what my flies do everytime i turn the key on. the servo sounds like its functioning, but the sensor seems to be telling the servo incorrect open/close information causing it to stutter and then stay shut.

let me know if this helps

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...XZfTDY3WVZuYTQ
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post #52 of 75 Old 08-27-2016, 02:11 PM
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They all do that kinda shit during startup. Each bike differs from the other. Did u try unplugging them in the full open position and taking it for a ride?
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post #53 of 75 Old 08-27-2016, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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They all do that kinda shit during startup. Each bike differs from the other. Did u try unplugging them in the full open position and taking it for a ride?

Yep the weather finally cleared. Just took it out with the flies full open. Bike idles high at 3k rpm. But shoots right through the rpm range in all gears. It's sad I'm just now feeling the real power of a 636.

Any ideas now?
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post #54 of 75 Old 08-27-2016, 11:17 PM
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So u are able to hit redline now?

And what do u mean by shoots thru the RPMs?


Also, adjust the idle to 1600 for the time being.
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post #55 of 75 Old 08-28-2016, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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So u are able to hit redline now?

And what do u mean by shoots thru the RPMs?


Also, adjust the idle to 1600 for the time being.
Yes it goes to redline. Which way do I turn the adjuster knob to lower the idle? The revs won't go below 3k no matter which way I turn it
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post #56 of 75 Old 08-28-2016, 10:33 AM
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I think it turns to the left to lower the idle. Start the engine and keep turning it. Might take a couple turns til u actually notice anything.
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post #57 of 75 Old 08-28-2016, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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I think it turns to the left to lower the idle. Start the engine and keep turning it. Might take a couple turns til u actually notice anything.
The knob won't turn for some reason. I'm gonna fuck with it a little more but I thought it would kind of unscrew smoothly
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post #58 of 75 Old 08-28-2016, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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I think it turns to the left to lower the idle. Start the engine and keep turning it. Might take a couple turns til u actually notice anything.
The knob is definitely stuck. Won't turn in either direction. Weird
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post #59 of 75 Old 08-28-2016, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by zxnick View Post
The knob is definitely stuck. Won't turn in either direction. Weird
Inspect the idle knob assembly. Should be attached to the left side of the throttle bodies.
Might have to remove the tank to see it.

Last edited by Scorpi0; 08-28-2016 at 11:29 PM.
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post #60 of 75 Old 08-30-2016, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Scorpi0 View Post
Inspect the idle knob assembly. Should be attached to the left side of the throttle bodies.
Might have to remove the tank to see it.
since i've targeted the secondary servo/sensor to be the problem as far as the rpm problem goes, should i look into replacing the throttle assembly? i noticed the servo isn't sold separately really nor the sensor
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