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post #1 of 20 Old 04-11-2017, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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Hello!

Just upgraded to a 2014 zx6 from my ninja 650.. Bike is mint with only 120 miles on it, got a great deal from craigslist (its not stolen), breaking it in slowly. Any input on the break in process would be appreciated, I was planning on keeping it under 10k rpms until 600 miles and then doing oil/filter.. Got some simple mods such as integrated taillight, fender eliminator, frame sliders and spools for the back. Maybe future mods would be a slip on but im pretty content with the stock exhaust note, just dont like the bulkiness. Input on tank pads would be appreciated as well.

uhhhh i think thats about it, unless anybody wants to buy my 650 or 750 track bike
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post #2 of 20 Old 04-11-2017, 09:23 AM
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Welcome! Sounds like a nice bike and a good plan.
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post #3 of 20 Old 04-11-2017, 11:05 AM
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Great find, that sounds very similar to how I got mine! I don't know if I like my tank pads or not. They came with the bike already so I am getting used to it. I do notice it really helps with gripping for turns though. That is also an extra layer to save the tank. Also welcome to the forum and also. My post with pictures of my bike including the tank pads is in the new user thread as well.
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post #4 of 20 Old 04-11-2017, 11:17 AM
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I Ride: 2015 30th anniversary ZX-6R
Welcome to the ZX Forum family.

If you are into carbon fibre, these Clever Wolf (Japan) tank guards are stunning. I've used them on (2) R1s, a CBR 1000RR, and now on my '15 636. It's usually one of the very firsts mods I perform on any new bike.

https://japan.webike.net/ps/#!p.m=425&p.b=152

There also some fairly nice and unassuming ones from TechSpec. They never seem to wear, wearing like iron. I also have a 2-piece small tank side to go along with the tank pad. I have both tank guard and tank sides for sale for sale, if anyone else is interested. $10.00 + postage (~ $5.00) for either the (1-pc) tank guard and the (2-pc) tank side, $18.00 for both, plus postage. I use large TecSpec on the sides of the tank to 'stick to' whilst cornering.

Bonus, here's my pick for rear light, it is by MotoDynamics. Several of us on the Forum have gone this route, it is a completely simple plug-n-play format: un-bolt the OEM item, detaching wires. Attach new unit wires, install. Done, drop the mic. And this little bugger seems to be well built. If I might add, go with their Fender Eliminator, too. I really feel this combo ought to be offered as a all inclusive pkg.

https://www.motodynamic.com/kawasaki...hts-smoke.html

https://www.motodynamic.com/kawasaki...nja-zx-6r.html

There is a literal wealth of knowledge on the Forum, don't hesitate to ask question.

Pic.1) Close-up of Clever Wolf tank protector.
Pic. 2) Extended view of Clever wolf tank protector.
Pic. 3) TecSpec tank protector.
Pic. 4) TecSpec tank side protectors.
Pic. 5) MotoDynamic smoke integrated rear lights.
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post #5 of 20 Old 04-11-2017, 12:08 PM
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I Ride: Ninja 300 (Traded) 2015 Zx6r 636 30th Anniversary Edition
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZedExMuse View Post
Welcome to the ZX Forum family.

If you are into carbon fibre, these Clever Wolf (Japan) tank guards are stunning. I've used them on (2) R1s, a CBR 1000RR, and now on my '15 636. It's usually one of the very firsts mods I perform on any new bike.

https://japan.webike.net/ps/#!p.m=425&p.b=152

There also some fairly nice and unassuming ones from TechSpec. They never seem to wear, wearing like iron. I also have a 2-piece small tank side to go along with the tank pad. I have both tank guard and tank sides for sale for sale, if anyone else is interested. $10.00 + postage (~ $5.00) for either the (1-pc) tank guard and the (2-pc) tank side, $18.00 for both, plus postage. I use large TecSpec on the sides of the tank to 'stick to' whilst cornering.

Bonus, here's my pick for rear light, it is by MotoDynamics. Several of us on the Forum have gone this route, it is a completely simple plug-n-play format: un-bolt the OEM item, detaching wires. Attach new unit wires, install. Done, drop the mic. And this little bugger seems to be well built. If I might add, go with their Fender Eliminator, too. I really feel this combo ought to be offered as a all inclusive pkg.

https://www.motodynamic.com/kawasaki...hts-smoke.html

https://www.motodynamic.com/kawasaki...nja-zx-6r.html

There is a literal wealth of knowledge on the Forum, don't hesitate to ask question.

Pic.1) Close-up of Clever Wolf tank protector.
Pic. 2) Extended view of Clever wolf tank protector.
Pic. 3) TecSpec tank protector.
Pic. 4) TecSpec tank side protectors.
Pic. 5) MotoDynamic smoke integrated rear lights.
We have the same bike! I just ordered my MTD Tail light and fender eliminator today actually!
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post #6 of 20 Old 04-12-2017, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VohrteFahrt View Post
We have the same bike! I just ordered my MTD Tail light and fender eliminator today actually!

Sir, I applaud your obvious good taste.

You'll be happy with your choices, MD really did their homework when designing both kits. They button up completely like O.E.M. pieces - very seamless.

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post #7 of 20 Old 04-12-2017, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jktinen View Post
Hello!

Just upgraded to a 2014 zx6 from my ninja 650.. Bike is mint with only 120 miles on it, got a great deal from craigslist (its not stolen), breaking it in slowly. Any input on the break in process would be appreciated, I was planning on keeping it under 10k rpms until 600 miles and then doing oil/filter.. Got some simple mods such as integrated taillight, fender eliminator, frame sliders and spools for the back. Maybe future mods would be a slip on but im pretty content with the stock exhaust note, just dont like the bulkiness. Input on tank pads would be appreciated as well.

uhhhh i think thats about it, unless anybody wants to buy my 650 or 750 track bike



All new-comers need to snap a few pix of their steed. Continual updates are also appreciated, too.
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post #8 of 20 Old 04-12-2017, 10:47 AM
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I Ride: Ninja 300 (Traded) 2015 Zx6r 636 30th Anniversary Edition
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZedExMuse View Post
Sir, I applaud your obvious good taste.

You'll be happy with your choices, MD really did their homework when designing both kits. They button up completely like O.E.M. pieces - very seamless.
I bought the taillight for my ninja 300 (never opened it) They are doing a 1 for 1 for the new zx6r taillight. Awesome customer service! I had a yoshi on my old one but if its the same thing I don't see why I have to drop $100 for something if MTD has for 44.
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post #9 of 20 Old 04-12-2017, 01:19 PM
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To your mods, the integrated tail light and fender eliminator are cosmetic, but I get wanting to do them. Makes it look good. The frame sliders and spools will hopefully protect it if you lay it down.

Anything after that I really think should be rider instruction first. Before you go and get a full exhaust and dyno tune and power commander, make sure you can tell what the bike is doing, make the bike do what you want. No point in dropping $1k on a bike if you can't yet properly use the stock capabilities, no?

As to break in, it's a contested topic. Racers break in their new bikes on the dyno under high rpm and high load. So is high RPMS bad or not? Anyway, up to you in the end. I feel like varying the RPM up and down and mid and down and up and down is more important than 'don't go over x, then don't go over y'
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post #10 of 20 Old 04-12-2017, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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awesome! thanks for the input everyone! @commiehunter I agree with your mod advice as I have not gone out of power mode 2 and probably (hopefully) will not for the next couple hundred miles. This bike has plenty of power!
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post #11 of 20 Old 04-12-2017, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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heres the booty with the motodynamic taillight and fender eliminator!
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post #12 of 20 Old 04-12-2017, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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I dont know if I want to taint my beautiful white tank with carbon fiber, I was thinking about going the clear route
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post #13 of 20 Old 04-12-2017, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by commiehunter View Post
To your mods, the integrated tail light and fender eliminator are cosmetic, but I get wanting to do them. Makes it look good. The frame sliders and spools will hopefully protect it if you lay it down.

Anything after that I really think should be rider instruction first. Before you go and get a full exhaust and dyno tune and power commander, make sure you can tell what the bike is doing, make the bike do what you want. No point in dropping $1k on a bike if you can't yet properly use the stock capabilities, no?

As to break in, it's a contested topic. Racers break in their new bikes on the dyno under high rpm and high load. So is high RPMS bad or not? Anyway, up to you in the end. I feel like varying the RPM up and down and mid and down and up and down is more important than 'don't go over x, then don't go over y'


I just get on the bitch and ride - like I normally do - like I'm running late for an appointment - like I usually am.

I had the chance to visit a friend of mine back in late '80s/early 90s who worked for American Honda down in So-Cal; we were talking about reliability issues 'cuz Honda had some issues with their early V-4s, but then they changed the valve actuation and became renowned for their bullet proof motors. I asked what did they do? He said they went with gear driven cams... and they always warm the motors up to to "operating temp" before the bike is ever snicked into gear.

So far, it's worked for me. BTW, lugging a motor around in a higher gear than normal is horrid on a combustion engine.

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post #14 of 20 Old 04-12-2017, 07:37 PM
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When I picked mine up it had 2 miles on it. Rode 98 miles to spend the night with my son. Kept the RPMs under 4K for a while then moved to 5K and finally 6K as I didn't want to get run over. Tried to continuously vary RPMs. My wrists and back were hurting from having no wind prop! Next day rode 260 miles home and switched to the break it in hard method! Started off keeping it under 6K, then moved to 7K and kept doing that so that by the time I was home was running to 9 or 10K. A 4,000 miles it runs great. IMO it's more important for an bike to ride easy until engine and fluids are up to near normal temperatures.

It is interesting to me that the break-in RPM limit is the same for the 636 which has a 15K redline as for bike with redlines much lower.
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post #15 of 20 Old 04-12-2017, 11:32 PM
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Hello and welcome! Congrats on the new bike!

I did the hard break in when I bought my bike brand new, and it now has over 65,000 miles on it and still runs like new. So I recommend this break in method: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

As far as tank grips/pads, I have TechSpec tank grips on mine, and I like them.
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