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post #1 of 16 Old 05-11-2017, 05:24 AM Thread Starter
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Howdy

New to the forum and just bought my first kawasaki last night. Ive been riding for about two years on a SV650. I have always wanted try something with a high reving inline engine and had an eye for the ZX6R's beauty. After months of lurking on craigslist I finally gave in and purchased a 2005 636. It needs some buttoning up and I plan to tackle a valve check/adjustment within the next couple weeks. Any other recommendations on maintenance or things to look are appreciated. I look forward to joining your online community and hope to see yall out there. Ride safe!

Last edited by DHK7; 05-11-2017 at 05:26 AM.
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post #2 of 16 Old 05-11-2017, 08:05 AM
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Welcome.

best thing you can do is download the shop manual for your bike from this site, and go about performing every scheduled maintenance item it calls out. new filters, new fluids, replace the rubber bits that have aged past their 'use by' dates.....

Get it as close to 'zero hours' as you can, so it is as consistent as possible, for as long as possible. the more uniform it acts, the more confidence you will have in it.
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"Basic stuff fellas. Use your head for something other than to break your next fall."

"There's this adage that we have 2 ears and one mouth so we should listen twice as much as we talk. Unfortunately with the Internet people have taken this old adage and turned it around. They have two eyes and 10 fingers so they think they need to post 5 times as much as they read. And since they have 10 fingers and one brain, they only have to think 10% of the time! "
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post #3 of 16 Old 05-11-2017, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by RJ2112 View Post
Welcome.

best thing you can do is download the shop manual for your bike from this site, and go about performing every scheduled maintenance item it calls out. new filters, new fluids, replace the rubber bits that have aged past their 'use by' dates.....

Get it as close to 'zero hours' as you can, so it is as consistent as possible, for as long as possible. the more uniform it acts, the more confidence you will have in it.


Howdy, back at you.

Yeah, what he said ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Oh, by the way

C8H10N4O2
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post #4 of 16 Old 05-11-2017, 07:36 PM
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Welcome aboard.
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post #5 of 16 Old 05-11-2017, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ2112 View Post
Welcome.

best thing you can do is download the shop manual for your bike from this site, and go about performing every scheduled maintenance item it calls out. new filters, new fluids, replace the rubber bits that have aged past their 'use by' dates.....

Get it as close to 'zero hours' as you can, so it is as consistent as possible, for as long as possible. the more uniform it acts, the more confidence you will have in it.
Just downloaded. I generally do a oil change, brake fluid, and coolant flush no question when I purchase a bike. The chain, sprocket, and filter were just replaced before I purchased it (seller provided receipts for repairs). I should have a weisco shim kit on the way shortly to minimize down time. Im not experiencing any abnormal noises but Im thinking about replacing the chain tensioner as preventative maintenance (oem/aftermarket?). Thanks for the advice
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post #6 of 16 Old 05-11-2017, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ZedExMuse View Post
Howdy, back at you.

Yeah, what he said ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Oh, by the way
Here is a teaser. Ill have more once it gets a good bath and I get it back to the factory ride height this weekend

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Welcome aboard.
Thank you sir
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post #7 of 16 Old 05-11-2017, 09:50 PM
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Nice. Welcome.


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post #8 of 16 Old 05-12-2017, 01:55 AM
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Here is a teaser. Ill have more once it gets a good bath and I get it back to the factory ride height this weekend



Thank you sir
Thanks for the pic. Sweet ride.

C8H10N4O2
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post #9 of 16 Old 05-12-2017, 08:26 AM
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Welcome to the forums. Clean looking bike..stay safe and welcome again.

Something should go here..I just haven't though of anything clever enough yet.
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post #10 of 16 Old 05-12-2017, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHK7 View Post
Just downloaded. I generally do a oil change, brake fluid, and coolant flush no question when I purchase a bike. The chain, sprocket, and filter were just replaced before I purchased it (seller provided receipts for repairs). I should have a weisco shim kit on the way shortly to minimize down time. Im not experiencing any abnormal noises but Im thinking about replacing the chain tensioner as preventative maintenance (oem/aftermarket?). Thanks for the advice
The auto tensioner uses a ratchet and pawl design that has been in use with clockworks since ~ the 17th century. The spring assembly pushes against the shoe, with takes up the slack on the timing chain. The ratchet takes most of the pressure off of the spring, so it can be very light/low pressure.... the holding power is the ratchet assembly.

Works as a one way extension, rather than allowing motion both ways.

The nice part about the OEM setup, is that it would be very difficult for it to put too much tension on the chain. The gap the spring consumes, is all the slack it can take up.

When the motor accelerates, the timing chain will flop about a bit with changes in load.... engine compression puts a different torque on the drive line, compared to acceleration. That flopping, is all the slack there is. Since the chain sits inside the motor, without exposure to the elements (dirt, water, etc.) the rate of wear on the links of the chain is very low. It won't stretch much due to wear between the pins and plates at all. Probably good for the life of the motor, even with poor maintenance.

A manual tensioner allows the owner to apply as much pressure to the shoe that takes up the slack as they desire. These are FREQEUNTLY over tightened. If they are, the chain will start to cut into the chain guides that route the chain between the crankshaft and the cam shafts. When they cut into the material, that will make the chain loose.... which means the cycle has to repeat, if you want the thing to remain quiet. Who knows how long it will be, before the chain cuts all the way through the guides......

But I can tell you that it will almost certainly require dropping the motor out of the frame to replace them.

"Basic stuff fellas. Use your head for something other than to break your next fall."

"There's this adage that we have 2 ears and one mouth so we should listen twice as much as we talk. Unfortunately with the Internet people have taken this old adage and turned it around. They have two eyes and 10 fingers so they think they need to post 5 times as much as they read. And since they have 10 fingers and one brain, they only have to think 10% of the time! "
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post #11 of 16 Old 05-14-2017, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ2112 View Post
The auto tensioner uses a ratchet and pawl design that has been in use with clockworks since ~ the 17th century. The spring assembly pushes against the shoe, with takes up the slack on the timing chain. The ratchet takes most of the pressure off of the spring, so it can be very light/low pressure.... the holding power is the ratchet assembly.

Works as a one way extension, rather than allowing motion both ways.

The nice part about the OEM setup, is that it would be very difficult for it to put too much tension on the chain. The gap the spring consumes, is all the slack it can take up.

When the motor accelerates, the timing chain will flop about a bit with changes in load.... engine compression puts a different torque on the drive line, compared to acceleration. That flopping, is all the slack there is. Since the chain sits inside the motor, without exposure to the elements (dirt, water, etc.) the rate of wear on the links of the chain is very low. It won't stretch much due to wear between the pins and plates at all. Probably good for the life of the motor, even with poor maintenance.

A manual tensioner allows the owner to apply as much pressure to the shoe that takes up the slack as they desire. These are FREQEUNTLY over tightened. If they are, the chain will start to cut into the chain guides that route the chain between the crankshaft and the cam shafts. When they cut into the material, that will make the chain loose.... which means the cycle has to repeat, if you want the thing to remain quiet. Who knows how long it will be, before the chain cuts all the way through the guides......

But I can tell you that it will almost certainly require dropping the motor out of the frame to replace them.
I work on cars for a living so im familiar with how everything works. Im just not sure which way to go. It looks like alot of people side with manual due to price, but im big on using OEM parts as im a dealership technician. I dont mind paying more for piece of mind. I also wasnt sure if its necessary to replace the guides and chain as you mentioned. The bike has 20k miles, and it doesnt seem to have had the tensioner replaced previously. I havent noticed any abnormal noise i just plan on replacing it knowing its a weak link. Is it normal to replace the guides or should i plan on doing the tensioner and valves and maybe inspect the chain and guides (if thats possible) and make a decision from there?

Last edited by DHK7; 05-14-2017 at 12:14 PM.
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post #12 of 16 Old 05-14-2017, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Welcome to the forums. Clean looking bike..stay safe and welcome again.
Thank you. It looks and rides alot better now with fresh fluids, a bath, and the proper ride height.
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post #13 of 16 Old 05-14-2017, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHK7 View Post
I work on cars for a living so im familiar with how everything works. Im just not sure which way to go. It looks like alot of people side with manual due to price, but im big on using OEM parts as im a dealership technician. I dont mind paying more for piece of mind. I also wasnt sure if its necessary to replace the guides and chain as you mentioned. The bike has 20k miles, and it doesnt seem to have had the tensioner replaced previously. I havent noticed any abnormal noise i just plan on replacing it knowing its a weak link. Is it normal to replace the guides or should i plan on doing the tensioner and valves and maybe inspect the chain and guides (if thats possible) and make a decision from there?
I'm over 48K on my 09, with the OEM auto tensioner.

Set up like this, I expect the guides to last the life of the motor. 100K or more.

"Basic stuff fellas. Use your head for something other than to break your next fall."

"There's this adage that we have 2 ears and one mouth so we should listen twice as much as we talk. Unfortunately with the Internet people have taken this old adage and turned it around. They have two eyes and 10 fingers so they think they need to post 5 times as much as they read. And since they have 10 fingers and one brain, they only have to think 10% of the time! "
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post #14 of 16 Old 05-14-2017, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ2112 View Post
I'm over 48K on my 09, with the OEM auto tensioner.

Set up like this, I expect the guides to last the life of the motor. 100K or more.
Is it the original or has it been replaced? Sorry about the 50 questions its just my first high milage bike and i want to make sure everything is kosher before i start riding it more.
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post #15 of 16 Old 05-14-2017, 06:33 PM
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Original.

When you took the tensioner out, and followed the shop manual setting the valves.... I expect that you also reset the tensioner as described. Maybe even cleaned it first.

When you reinstalled it, it automatically reduced the slack in the cam drive. It might click once more, then do nothing further for the rest of the time between clearance checks.

Nothing further need be done.

"Basic stuff fellas. Use your head for something other than to break your next fall."

"There's this adage that we have 2 ears and one mouth so we should listen twice as much as we talk. Unfortunately with the Internet people have taken this old adage and turned it around. They have two eyes and 10 fingers so they think they need to post 5 times as much as they read. And since they have 10 fingers and one brain, they only have to think 10% of the time! "
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