My Steady Introduction to the Art of Track Photography - Page 3 - ZX6R Forum
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post #31 of 40 Old 09-04-2013, 09:29 PM
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Some great work. I have yet to shoot at the track. One day I will get my camera out and shoot, but I am always too fucking lazy.
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post #32 of 40 Old 09-04-2013, 10:18 PM
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Much better this time!! I see a big difference. Great shots!

This is my fav, based on the metadata you were 1/800, ISO 200, 300mm on this one.



Free edit. You only get one.

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post #33 of 40 Old 09-05-2013, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, for that corner I played with a few different settings. That one definitely seemed to be the most optimal. That shot is one of my favorites as well.

Not too shabby on the editing. I will probably edit a few just for fun but when it comes to shooting pics for other riders, I prefer to give them the opportunity to have a good quality original pic to do with what they choose. Or if they would like it edited a little, I'd be willing to do that to.

The pro photog doesn't do any editing at all. He simply shoots a massive batch from the day's sessions and then posts them all up on the computers for riders to choose from at the end of each day. He uses much better equipment than I do though so I think it's pretty awesome that I can pull some good quality base pics using such a lower end camera.

There are a lot of shots in this batch that I will edit for artistic purposes. I am really enjoying motorcycle sports photography and I'm looking forward to more opportunities to just do some more casual, personal shooting. I have to say that being a track photographer is a little different than just shooting and editing for fun. It isn't really about what *I* want as much as it's about doing a job in mass quantity. As weird as that sounds.

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post #34 of 40 Old 09-05-2013, 10:04 AM
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Great pics.

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post #35 of 40 Old 09-05-2013, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MistressOfMayhem View Post
The pro photog doesn't do any editing at all. He simply shoots a massive batch from the day's sessions and then posts them all up on the computers for riders to choose from at the end of each day. He uses much better equipment than I do though so I think it's pretty awesome that I can pull some good quality base pics using such a lower end camera.

There are a lot of shots in this batch that I will edit for artistic purposes. I am really enjoying motorcycle sports photography and I'm looking forward to more opportunities to just do some more casual, personal shooting. I have to say that being a track photographer is a little different than just shooting and editing for fun. It isn't really about what *I* want as much as it's about doing a job in mass quantity. As weird as that sounds.
The pro rigs are awesome, but don't downplay your camera. It is still a very powerful tool when you 1) know what you are doing and 2) pair it with good glass. I really like the new crop of photos. Things came out a lot cleaner. Good work! Now, keep playing with it and give it your own flair. Drop the shutter to around 1/300 give or take (speed and distance away dependent) and play with some panning. It'll be a blast.

The best photos I've seen are from folks that are just shooting for fun, not the track photographers trying to put food on their plates. Figure out the sweet spots for the quick and easy cash/free track time and save the artistic photos for friends when you are shooting because you want to shoot.

Sidenote, the picture of the 1199 and R6 is awesome. Same lean angle, but we know who is faster...

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post #36 of 40 Old 09-05-2013, 11:31 AM
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Pics are looking better!

Can i suggest a few things though?

With your camera body and lens, the autofocus is not as fast as say a "pro" camera would be. This might be an issue when trying to get the best shot when the bikes are moving pretty fast. The 55-300mm nikon is also sharper when the aperature is stopped down more.

I would suggest to use a smaller aperature and a slower shutter speed and to also pan the shots as the subject is moving across the frame. These three things would give you a broader focus point (sharper pic) and a sense of motion from the panning. Using a smaller aperature will not work for shots when you only want a certain object in focus though. It is up to you how you like it.

In my experience, depending on the weather/available light, i never needed to be higher than 1/1000 shutter speed with a small aperature of over f/9. This is, of course, when the lighting is available.

I would also try to do center weighted or spot metering for your exposure as well. I believe you can change that under the settings menu.
What that does it it will expose for the focus/center ponits instead of the whole frame. This will help with the subject being inadvertently darker than the rest of the frame. If lighting is off, some parts of the frame will be overexposed though. You can always recover that from using pohto editors like Adobe Lightroom.

IF YOU CAN, ALWAYS SHOOT IN RAW. You can do RAW+JPEG as well if you'd like. Editing in RAW is much more easier than trying to edit and recover colors/sharpness/details in JPEGs.

Good Luck!!
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post #37 of 40 Old 09-05-2013, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by MistressOfMayhem View Post
Yeah, for that corner I played with a few different settings. That one definitely seemed to be the most optimal. That shot is one of my favorites as well.

Not too shabby on the editing. I will probably edit a few just for fun but when it comes to shooting pics for other riders, I prefer to give them the opportunity to have a good quality original pic to do with what they choose. Or if they would like it edited a little, I'd be willing to do that to.

The pro photog doesn't do any editing at all. He simply shoots a massive batch from the day's sessions and then posts them all up on the computers for riders to choose from at the end of each day. He uses much better equipment than I do though so I think it's pretty awesome that I can pull some good quality base pics using such a lower end camera.

There are a lot of shots in this batch that I will edit for artistic purposes. I am really enjoying motorcycle sports photography and I'm looking forward to more opportunities to just do some more casual, personal shooting. I have to say that being a track photographer is a little different than just shooting and editing for fun. It isn't really about what *I* want as much as it's about doing a job in mass quantity. As weird as that sounds.
As someone else said, definitely don't downplay the capabilities of your equipment. IMO skill and creativity is the biggest factor. I know guys (amateurs like me) that have Mark II's and I can shoot better with my old XSi Rebel any day.

For the edit, I just sharpened it up a bit and put a vignette on it. There's not much of a difference from the original since it's a great shot to begin with. I love getting creative at times but didn't want to take away from your shot!

I recently got Final Cut Pro X and am trying to do some things with my GoPro footage. That is not an easy task! Video is so much different to work with IMO. It's a big challenge and I suck at it so far. Once I get bored of that hopefully I can get some stills of my bike up soon once the trees change color. Will make for a nice photo shoot.

Keep up the good work!
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post #38 of 40 Old 09-05-2013, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hzhong456 View Post
Pics are looking better!

Can i suggest a few things though?

With your camera body and lens, the autofocus is not as fast as say a "pro" camera would be. This might be an issue when trying to get the best shot when the bikes are moving pretty fast. The 55-300mm nikon is also sharper when the aperature is stopped down more.

I would suggest to use a smaller aperature and a slower shutter speed and to also pan the shots as the subject is moving across the frame. These three things would give you a broader focus point (sharper pic) and a sense of motion from the panning. Using a smaller aperature will not work for shots when you only want a certain object in focus though. It is up to you how you like it.

In my experience, depending on the weather/available light, i never needed to be higher than 1/1000 shutter speed with a small aperature of over f/9. This is, of course, when the lighting is available.

I would also try to do center weighted or spot metering for your exposure as well. I believe you can change that under the settings menu.
What that does it it will expose for the focus/center ponits instead of the whole frame. This will help with the subject being inadvertently darker than the rest of the frame. If lighting is off, some parts of the frame will be overexposed though. You can always recover that from using pohto editors like Adobe Lightroom.

IF YOU CAN, ALWAYS SHOOT IN RAW. You can do RAW+JPEG as well if you'd like. Editing in RAW is much more easier than trying to edit and recover colors/sharpness/details in JPEGs.

Good Luck!!
Yeah, I shot all of these in RAW format and it took over 13 hours for my little latop to convert them to JPEGs. I actually did use centerweighed metering this time around, which is why I think the shadow details came out clearer and the light definitely looks much more balanced. It made a huge difference but some shots still came out kinda bleached looking; of course that was because I forgot to adjust my aperture and shutter speed.

For the turn 1 shots (the left handers) those were all done by panning. I apparently used too fast of a shutter speed to really capture the background/foreground blur, and in a few shots I didn't let the focus lock before I released the shutter so everything came out kinda fuzzy. But these mistakes were pretty few and far between in the grand scheme of things. Maybe the smaller aperture and slower shutter speed will help with this. I hadn't really thought of it that way but I will try that and see how it goes.

Also: I don't mean to infer that I need to jump to a better camera (isn't that the same as the dudes who bump up to a liter bike hehehe ), but there are definitely limits to the scope of how much I can zoom and capture. The picture of the three bikes making a right hand (front facing) is the perfect example. It was just way too far for me to get a good lock and most of them came out fuzzy or distorted.

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post #39 of 40 Old 09-05-2013, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MistressOfMayhem View Post
Yeah, I shot all of these in RAW format and it took over 13 hours for my little latop to convert them to JPEGs. I actually did use centerweighed metering this time around, which is why I think the shadow details came out clearer and the light definitely looks much more balanced. It made a huge difference but some shots still came out kinda bleached looking; of course that was because I forgot to adjust my aperture and shutter speed.

For the turn 1 shots (the left handers) those were all done by panning. I apparently used too fast of a shutter speed to really capture the background/foreground blur, and in a few shots I didn't let the focus lock before I released the shutter so everything came out kinda fuzzy. But these mistakes were pretty few and far between in the grand scheme of things. Maybe the smaller aperture and slower shutter speed will help with this. I hadn't really thought of it that way but I will try that and see how it goes.

Also: I don't mean to infer that I need to jump to a better camera (isn't that the same as the dudes who bump up to a liter bike hehehe ), but there are definitely limits to the scope of how much I can zoom and capture. The picture of the three bikes making a right hand (front facing) is the perfect example. It was just way too far for me to get a good lock and most of them came out fuzzy or distorted.
Try slowing the shutter to say about 1/640 while doing panning shots but also keeping the frame exposed correctly.

In a really really really sunny day with no clouds, it may be close to overexposure though. You can try getting ND filters to drop the lightning even more.

have you tried using P mode? i think it works pretty well. Set your perferred ISO and shutter/aperture and it will adjust accordingly. I use it sometimes when I'm in a hurry and dont have time to set up right away.

iF you need more zoom, getting a better camera will not help. Lenses are way more important than the camera body. I don't like to use them since it cuts a lot of light, but you can get a teleconverter to make your zoom longer if you need it.

Also, just for you to keep in mind, please remember that the more you zoom in on a subject, the flatter it will look. It is called perspective distortion.
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post #40 of 40 Old 09-06-2013, 12:41 PM
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Some pics my wife and I took at TMP this weekend. (the one of the red ZX6 #71 is me, so obviously my wife took that one. The others I took.)

We have a nikon D5100 with a 50-300mm nikor lense. Not the greatest but works for our level.

I usually leave it on aperature priority mode and then manually adjust the shutter speed. Leave it on autofocus and pre adjust the focus on the corner I want to take the picture. Then I pan the camera with bike and use continous shutter mode and hope at least one of the shots looks good LOL!
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Last edited by Todd; 09-06-2013 at 12:44 PM.
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