Blood, Sweat & Tears: Totaled to Track in 30 days - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 53 Old 08-07-2011, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Blood, Sweat & Tears: Totaled to Track in 30 days

I recently purchased a 2007 zx6r with 11,000 miles for $2500. It had been totaled by insurance(cosmetic only), but the guy bought it back and put some cheap plastics on it to sell it. I was looking for a track bike and this fit the bill.
Since I decided to toss my other bike at VIR and retire her to the street, I had about a month left to get things done before our organization's track day/ race weekend on 8/26- 8/28. This is what I rolled home:

She came with HID headlights, integrated tail/ turn lights (Ebay'd both) and a Power Commander 5. Chain (RK) and sprockets (SunStar) are pretty new; maybe 1000 miles on 'em. Oh yeah, and a Yoshi slip on. That will stay for now, I can't justify putting a $1500 exhaust on a $2000 bike
This is as she sits now:


What the hell am I thinking?!?! I destroyed a perfectly good bike!

More to come. Brakes, suspension, body and more are on the list!

Edit: got my suspension back today! Full Race Tech internals with custom shim pack for the rear:


The forks look the same, but now with Traxxion Dynamics internals:


Finally, a little "WOAH!" in case I give her too much "GO!" EBC's X-Pro pads:


Got new Spiegler brake lines coming today.....hopefully.

CCS 132 Proudly sponsored by Amsoil, DC-MOTO.net, Manassas Honda Kawasaki and MARRC
2014 #1 RCGT, #2 MWSB, 2014 Sportsman Award, 2013 Amateur of the Year, 2012 Cornerworker of the Year
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R100rs- 66k and counting!
R1200 GS/A- The moose is loose!
KTM 400 XCW- Riding dirty!

Last edited by TheEvilTwin; 08-13-2011 at 06:47 PM.
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post #2 of 53 Old 08-07-2011, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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Wow, went more smoothly than I thought! Forks on, shock on, brake lines and fresh fluid. When I picked up the suspension, new tires were mounted for me... while I waited! I love MHK!! Uh, that is Manassas Honda- Kawasaki for non- locals.
I wore out my hands pumping the brakes to bleed them, so I took a break for paint work. Sanded, cleaned and sprayed the hugger. Holy pumpkin, is it a bright orange! I finished up the brakes after top coating the hugger. Next, I'll throw on the rear tire and exhaust, radiator and God knows what else. So, as she sits now:


8/10/11: Dammit! My torque wrench went to sh!t last night! The band inside the handle with the values on it came loose. Hope Sears has the lifetime warranty on it, otherwise it is going to be another $90. This also means I will have to re torque all the front end stuff to. I don't know for sure that it was not loose then.

8/12/11: Found out that Sears does NOT guarantee their torque wrenches past 1 year. Awesome. Got another and set to work on the above stuff right now.

8/13: Put the rear tire and caliper on and torqued everything down. Went about throwing the exhaust back on and decided to wrap the cat for a little added protection for the belly pan.


Exhaust-done. Radiator-done. Flushed and filled the coolant with about 3 gallons of distilled water. After the final drain, I just topped it up with more water and the proper amount of MoCool. As most of you know, antifreeze is frowned upon at the track and most organizations ban it at track days.
So...... she is starting to look like a bike again, eh?




8/18: Work has been pounding me, but that is what pays the bills. The last two days I have been dealing with the bodywork. I got some cheap-o glass from FormulaOneComposites on ebay. Less than $300 delivered! They were definitely not "ready to paint" but what really is if you are going to do it right. They were sort of primed in gray. First, I drilled out the mounting holes. Most were spot on as in the case with the windshield and fairing stay.


Some, like this one on the side are close.



Trick is to use a very small pilot bit first to make sure you hit the screw hole. Then you can adjust if needed and drill the real hole when you find the center. Once the holes are drilled I started with the painting.


Yeah, baby! Spray bomb!!! Since I am using a bright color I decided to use a white primer. You can see that I only did the white primer where it will be orange. The blue will easily cover up any primer color.



After the primer dries fully I will start shooting the colors. Best to start with the brightest color so that any over spray can be covered up by the darker one. More on that later.

CCS 132 Proudly sponsored by Amsoil, DC-MOTO.net, Manassas Honda Kawasaki and MARRC
2014 #1 RCGT, #2 MWSB, 2014 Sportsman Award, 2013 Amateur of the Year, 2012 Cornerworker of the Year
Follow Motosylum Racing

R6- Bonnie the Pirate 6
R100rs- 66k and counting!
R1200 GS/A- The moose is loose!
KTM 400 XCW- Riding dirty!

Last edited by TheEvilTwin; 08-18-2011 at 06:23 PM. Reason: Added more.
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post #3 of 53 Old 08-07-2011, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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8/19: I guess I should start with the basics of the paint for those that don't know. With painting, the Devil is in the details. Prep work makes the biggest difference in the end product. I can get very good results with a rattle can because of the preparation. I didn't just pull the body out of the box and start painting. The first thing I did was give it a good rub down with a Scotch- Brite pad to smooth down any rough areas and take off any of the factory primer "boogers". After that I washed the parts with water and dish soap (like Dawn). The dish soap is made to disperse grease and oil so it is a perfect product for this as oil from your hands can cause the paint not to bond. To speed up the process I dried the parts with lint- free towels and set them in the sun for a bit. Just before I started shooting, to ensure a good bond, I gave the part a quick wipe with Acetone to remove any dirt or finger prints. Since Acetone vaporizes quickly there is no dry time after this. Now, the primer coat (as seen in the above post). When the primer is fully dry (about 20 minutes) I would give the surface a sanding with either 300 grit or the Scotch- Brite depending on the condition of the surface. Once you do that you have to repeat the wash/ dry/ wipe process before the color coat.
Now, as I said before, shoot the light color first. Spray just past where you are going to start the next color so you have a good deep coat where the seam will be. Unless you are using two light colors, the dark one will cover the light one and you wont need to re prime before the dark color.


Once the paint cures it is time to start taping up. I use this stuff called Frog Tape. It's got really good adhesion and leaves pretty good lines. Use an X-acto knife or razor blade to trim the tape along the lines if needed, just don't press really hard or you'll cut into the body. Run your finger around the edges to make sure you have a good seal.


When you do the second color be sure not to go too thick, as the solvent in the paint will loosen the tape. Multiple thin coats are best anyway. Just enough paint to make the surface look "wet". Once the final coat is applied and the paint is dry to the touch but still tacky (an hour or two) the tape can be gently peeled off. You can see that there are small areas that I didn't get a good seal with the tape.


I should have everything painted by tomorrow afternoon and then I'll start putting it together. Sheesh, less than a week left! I leave Thursday night!
8/28/11: WOW! The 20th- the 24th were some nerve wracking days! While mounting the bodywork I noticed that one of my forks was leaking. We did not replace the seals because all the internals were changed through the top side.... bad move . I had to strip the front end and get it out and repaired in 3 days. PLUS, the valve clearance check . I did however, manage to get it all done and back together by 8:30pm the night before leaving for the weekend. This is how she turned out:


The bike was set up well out of the box. I turned low 30's/ high 20's by the third session. I paid for all the tire, I might as well use it all

I did not get a chance to paint the tank, but it still looks ok. I'm so wipped I;ll have to do the cost analysis in another post as well
8/30: Cost totals: Bike $2500
Body $295
Drill bits & safety wire $7
DOT 5.1 Brake fluid $13
Heat shielding $19
Subtotal for NECESSARY stuff = $2834
Add for: Suspension $877 (including new fork seals )
Brake pads $110
Brake lines $147
CCT $50
ASV Brake/ Clutch levers $160
Valve check $200 (I had a shop do that but I brought them the bike without fuel tank or airbox)
Paint supplies $56
Angle valve stems $27
Used Windshield $36
Total spent in current state= $4497
I don't figure in coolant, tires or oil/ filter because those are expendable items. I was thinking it would be a $5000 venture and came damn close. I could have just gone with the stock suspension/ brake lines etc but see myself as a fairly experienced track whore and push the bike and myself. A track noob could have a perfectly good ride for the $2834 version. Most of the big costs are one time things anyway; suspension, brake lines, levers.
I'm going to review my notes and review the products I used soon.

REVIEWS IN POST 53 ON PAGE 2

CCS 132 Proudly sponsored by Amsoil, DC-MOTO.net, Manassas Honda Kawasaki and MARRC
2014 #1 RCGT, #2 MWSB, 2014 Sportsman Award, 2013 Amateur of the Year, 2012 Cornerworker of the Year
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R6- Bonnie the Pirate 6
R100rs- 66k and counting!
R1200 GS/A- The moose is loose!
KTM 400 XCW- Riding dirty!

Last edited by TheEvilTwin; 09-04-2011 at 05:55 AM.
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post #4 of 53 Old 08-07-2011, 05:58 PM
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God damn, $2500 is a deal, even for a salvaged bike. Good luck at the track. I hope to get to VIR next month maybe.

BTW if you decide you don't want that rear hugger, shoot me a PM.
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post #5 of 53 Old 08-07-2011, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Keeping the hugger, track days are rain or shine. I hope it helps, because with my 10 my feet and legs were soaked! Thank you on the offer, though.
FWIW, you will LOVE it at VIR!

CCS 132 Proudly sponsored by Amsoil, DC-MOTO.net, Manassas Honda Kawasaki and MARRC
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post #6 of 53 Old 08-07-2011, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by TheEvilTwin View Post
So this is what I have to look forward for this winter?

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post #7 of 53 Old 08-07-2011, 07:47 PM
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By VIR you would'nt happen to mean Virginia International Raceway would you? I'm looking at getting into some trackdays if I ever decide to pony up the cash for the suit and race body work.

Also if you wouldnt mind an extra set of hands I'd love to help if your fairly close.
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post #8 of 53 Old 08-07-2011, 08:24 PM
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man your bike fell apart!!! the plastics looked good

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post #9 of 53 Old 08-08-2011, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Manolo View Post
So this is what I have to look forward for this winter?
You turning yours into a track bike? It's a learning experience! I figure I can do it in about 3 weeks, but that is relying on parts delivery, shock rebuild, etc. Then, of course, the time it takes to fix the things I screw up

Quote:
Originally Posted by scouterjial View Post
By VIR you would'nt happen to mean Virginia International Raceway would you? I'm looking at getting into some trackdays if I ever decide to pony up the cash for the suit and race body work.

Also if you wouldnt mind an extra set of hands I'd love to help if your fairly close.
Yessir! That is the track that got me! I'm up near D.C, VIR is about 4 hours south of me. Where ya at?

CCS 132 Proudly sponsored by Amsoil, DC-MOTO.net, Manassas Honda Kawasaki and MARRC
2014 #1 RCGT, #2 MWSB, 2014 Sportsman Award, 2013 Amateur of the Year, 2012 Cornerworker of the Year
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R1200 GS/A- The moose is loose!
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post #10 of 53 Old 08-08-2011, 11:12 AM
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damn you did get a good deal, That is if it really was just cosmetic stuff.?
Sure looks good, If only I could find a sweet deal like that.

About that shock, Did Race-tech redo the stock unit?
That is a stock unit is it not? With a new spring & race-tech sticker?
What would it set me back to have them do up my 08 ZX6R shock.
I would like to stick it back on the bike next year.

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post #11 of 53 Old 08-08-2011, 11:21 AM
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Looking good man, can't wait to see the transformation. I would Love to build a dedicated track bike....One day soon hopefully

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post #12 of 53 Old 08-08-2011, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by oldninjadude View Post
damn you did get a good deal, That is if it really was just cosmetic stuff.?
Sure looks good, If only I could find a sweet deal like that.

About that shock, Did Race-tech redo the stock unit?
That is a stock unit is it not? With a new spring & race-tech sticker?
What would it set me back to have them do up my 08 ZX6R shock.
I would like to stick it back on the bike next year.
Yup, couple of scratches on the swing arm plus a bunch of plastic will total a bike in a hurry. With a salvage title, the value drops big time.
The shock is a stock shell. It has been fitted with all new internals (valves, adjusters, separator valve, O-rings, etc.) as well as the bottom- out bumper and the spring. New fluid, of course. Basically, the guts are new. Same with the forks, but I had to go with TD due to time constraints as some items were back ordered. I'm not winning any expert classes so I couldn't see going with complete new units for the $$$. Swapping out the internals ran a bit over $800 for it all. I think the shock was about half of that.
An acquaintance works at a local shop, and is Ohlins/ TD/ Penske/ Race Tech certified. He's been to all the factory programs so I took it to him. That is the beauty of living in the Washington D.C. area-- the economy justifies some of these shops dumping money into specialties like suspension and engine building.
My advice (take it as you will) is if you cant do it all at once to do the forks first. They take more abuse than the shock due to braking and impact forces. Even then, the correct spring in your shock or fork can do wonders without changing the valving. For street use it may be more than enough.
Now, if you will excuse me, I have a bike to work on

CCS 132 Proudly sponsored by Amsoil, DC-MOTO.net, Manassas Honda Kawasaki and MARRC
2014 #1 RCGT, #2 MWSB, 2014 Sportsman Award, 2013 Amateur of the Year, 2012 Cornerworker of the Year
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R100rs- 66k and counting!
R1200 GS/A- The moose is loose!
KTM 400 XCW- Riding dirty!
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post #13 of 53 Old 08-08-2011, 12:43 PM
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I redid the forks last year,
Put sonic springs & Redline fluid in. Cut myself 3 sets of spacers.
Was a vast improvement over stock. Certainly good enough for street riding.

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post #14 of 53 Old 08-08-2011, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEvilTwin View Post
You turning yours into a track bike? It's a learning experience! I figure I can do it in about 3 weeks, but that is relying on parts delivery, shock rebuild, etc. Then, of course, the time it takes to fix the things I screw up
Yea, I been on the ropes about it but i finally made the decision to go that route... I order a used Ohlins rear shock that came in the other day, I tried to get the fork cartridge kit but its been discontinued by Ohlins, so i order used black forks and going to change the internals and also have the rear shock sprung for my weight and serviced. Today I order a scotts damper...
I'm still debating either to get used oem plastics or get race plastics (fiberglass).. I'm debating it becuz for now I might have to ride to the track for now.... Everything going to be done over the winter... looking forward for next season

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post #15 of 53 Old 08-08-2011, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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OND, you are one step ahead of me, sir!

Manolo, take my advice: go fiberglass. I learned the hard way. A while back I took a street bike out and wadded her up. The cost added up with a quickness. For just the replacement headlight alone I could have bought a set of track glass. I use Formula One Composites. Like $300 a set to your door. Not as nice as Hot Bodies or Armor Bodies, but half the price. I'll be reviewing them later in this thread.

More stuff added in the second post

.

CCS 132 Proudly sponsored by Amsoil, DC-MOTO.net, Manassas Honda Kawasaki and MARRC
2014 #1 RCGT, #2 MWSB, 2014 Sportsman Award, 2013 Amateur of the Year, 2012 Cornerworker of the Year
Follow Motosylum Racing

R6- Bonnie the Pirate 6
R100rs- 66k and counting!
R1200 GS/A- The moose is loose!
KTM 400 XCW- Riding dirty!
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