PowerGroove

hahahahaha.... thanks dude.

Trust me... these tires had plenty more left. I've never had any issues with them hooking up. The day these pics were taken it was around 95* out. Last time it wasn't so hot and they didn't get quite so bad... but still scrubbed up pretty good... my suspension is set better now too which helps them wear more even.

But yes... I'll be moving to more of a DOT tire the less this bike sees public roads. But for now... I need the best of both worlds.

TheEvilTwin

To the OP, two words: track day.
However, you do not necessarily need to use all the tire to be fast.

Ya might try a click on the rear rebound too. My Pures looked like your rear tire after 9 laps. One click and it is even nearly everywhere after another 9 laps.

kawasakifreak77

Very true.

Monster

i couldnt agree more!! thats what my pures look like after a good canyon run!! lol. !!!

PowerGroove

Thanks man... Actually did that after those pics were taken. Had been working out some issues that day. Since then I've got her pretty dialed in. Tires wear much more even and the bike has been hooking up really nicely.

We'll run her hard the next couple of days at the track and make sure.

Schooley

this is a great thread..

I usually do not have a problem getting low, but there is this one curve on my way home from work that I will not even try on because it has some weird high and low spots.. It actually makes the rear tire feel like its gonna wobble right off.


I need to find a track here in NC

nos gt

i have no promblam getin down on my chickin strips in curves if u have a good curve ride in the crown all roads have whats called road cron just dont try to lean all the way if ur in the middel of the curve

tgold

The fastest way around a racetrack is not necessarily hitting each apex perfectly, getting on the gas as early as possible, nor (necessarily) braking as late as possible. All of these [I]can[I] be components of fast cornering but there are many ways to get around a racetrack quickly.

Braking as late as possible is often a very bad habit that new racers get into, and they upset the bike badly while doing so.

I'll agree that using your knee is great as a lean angle indicator, but it's much more than that. If you have your knee on the pavement and the front starts to slide, you can recover from the slide by taking some of the weight on your knee. There are some corners where I have my knee puck pretty firmly planted just because of this. Not all the time though. Getting your knee down is just one possible tool.

As for getting to the point where you get your knee down. It won't work if you don't have confidence in what your tires are telling you. Make sure that your bike is set up properly first, not according to the pressures indicated on the side of the tire, but start with what the manufacturer recommends for the type of riding that you are doing. Also get help to properly set your suspension for your weight, the correct sag, and ride height for the front and rear. It will help your confidence tremendously when you are riding a properly set up bike.

Throttle control is important as well. Once you are finished with braking into a turn, you should immediately transition to at least a bit of throttle. Bike suspensions are designed to work either braking or under acceleration, not coasting. Being off the gas in the middle of a corner puts extra weight on the front end and can invite a lowside.