2013 Racing Head Gasket - Page 2 - ZX6R Forum
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post #16 of 27 Old 03-26-2015, 03:03 PM
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48 here.

Daytona is murder on motors too. sounds like his first motor broke a rod, second motor over heated (maybe an air pocket in the cooling system). that last motor had him up front until he crashed.

but, I am with you.... I would rather have the motor live a bit than get everything out of it and have a ticking time bomb. Ski
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post #17 of 27 Old 07-17-2016, 09:50 AM
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RESURRECTING AN OLD THREAD BUT, I'm doing head gasket research and this has led me to another question...

I have watched Farrell spank guys racing 1000's, literally destroying them, on his 636 and taking 1st. (Granted this was on a "slower" technical track... but still impressive). I actually just bought a motor from a parts guy who was like "Yea, I'm on my way to drop off two motors to him. He buys them from me all the time."

Personally, I blew my engine at Road America... Another track that is pretty hard on motors, lots of long fast stretches at full throttle. I had a connecting rod failure. Reading about Farrell's engine failure, and looking at parts on Ebay there seems to be a lack of complete rotating assemblies (pistons, con rods, cranks...) Is the connecting rod failure a common problem with Kawasaki 600 race bikes?

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post #18 of 27 Old 12-03-2016, 01:56 AM
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Good question! I'd like to bump the thread for several reasons, but this is one of them. I've searched and searched and have not found any performance cams for the new 636. No crankshafts or pistons either, but I wonder if 2009-2012 aftermarket pistons would work since it's the same bore, the motor is just stroked, so it's a matter of length of the piston. There are connecting rods you can get from Corrillo. EDR Performance did their normal bolt ons, tuning, etc... but what they did different was Corillo Connecting Rods and rebalanced the OEM crankshaft. They made 130rwhp. Check out their 2013 636 and you can read all about it. That's what I am chasing. 130rwhp.

I have a couple of questions. What compression ratio would I achieve with the following and what octane could I rub minimum and what octane could I optimally run with these gasket sizes?

.60
.55
.50

Also, is it true that I have to buy special spark plugs that are shorter and very expensive ($120 for a set) AND they don't last as long?

Do I have to have my head decked or can I do this on a motor without decking it that has 7900 IMMACULATELY maintained motor? About to send my oil off for analysis.

I have FlashTune so I want to be able to run 93 octane pump gas (or if I have to, I will add some 101 octane in each tank if my minimum is like, 94-96 octane, but would have an entirely different map for my highest octane efficiently for High Power Mode. Plus, if I need to add more fuel, I can always switch over to Map 2 on my Bazzaz Z-Fi, Z-AFM & Dual Map Switch Selector. I just need to know what compression ratio I will end up with and what minimum and maximum (without losing money, octane and power) octane to run.

I want to hit that 130-135rwhp! I've spent money on suspension and will continue to upgrade the suspension even more, but I love being the fastest "600cc" class bike in the Northwestern part of my state. Now I want to make sure I keep that crown as others are starting to challenge me and I also want to run with the 750's. Oh, and for Oklahoma, my Pirelli Rosso Corsa tires have no chicken strips,which among my riding group, I'm the only one; hasn't been on the track...yet

2014 ZX-6R 636: M4 Street Slayer Exhaust, FlashTune Bike Tuning Kit, Bazzaz Z-Fi, Z-AFM, MJS Headers, K&N Race Air Filter, RaceTech Gold Valve Fork Kit w/ Bottom & Top-Out Mod, reshimmed & RT Fork Springs, RaceTech Gold Valve Shock w/ Refreshed internals & RT Powdercoated Lime Green Spring, D.I.D Gold Chain, Vortex -1 front sprocket, PMP Sprockets Anodized Green +2 rear aluminum sprocket (-1/+2), GPVR4, Fender Eliminator Kit, MotoDynamics Smoked Integrated LED Taillight, '13 Lower Green Fairings, R6 Throttle Tube, Pro Grip Padded Tank Pad, Stomp Grip Clear Tank Pads, Pazzo IFX Candy Green Shorty Levers, Raskal Graffiks Wheel Decals, Puig Double Bubble Dark Smoke Windscreen, Driven Block-Off Plates, Driven Gold Spools, Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 Bi-Xenon Projectors, Morimoto 5Five 50w 6000k HID's, (6) Morimoto XC RGB Angel Eyes, Pirelli Diablo Rosso Corsa's, etc...
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post #19 of 27 Old 12-03-2016, 03:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Texas636 View Post
Good question! I'd like to bump the thread for several reasons, but this is one of them. I've searched and searched and have not found any performance cams for the new 636. No crankshafts or pistons either, but I wonder if 2009-2012 aftermarket pistons would work since it's the same bore, the motor is just stroked, so it's a matter of length of the piston. There are connecting rods you can get from Corrillo. EDR Performance did their normal bolt ons, tuning, etc... but what they did different was Corillo Connecting Rods and rebalanced the OEM crankshaft. They made 130rwhp. Check out their 2013 636 and you can read all about it. That's what I am chasing. 130rwhp.

I have a couple of questions. What compression ratio would I achieve with the following and what octane could I rub minimum and what octane could I optimally run with these gasket sizes?

.60
.55
.50

Also, is it true that I have to buy special spark plugs that are shorter and very expensive ($120 for a set) AND they don't last as long?

Do I have to have my head decked or can I do this on a motor without decking it that has 7900 IMMACULATELY maintained motor? About to send my oil off for analysis.

I have FlashTune so I want to be able to run 93 octane pump gas (or if I have to, I will add some 101 octane in each tank if my minimum is like, 94-96 octane, but would have an entirely different map for my highest octane efficiently for High Power Mode. Plus, if I need to add more fuel, I can always switch over to Map 2 on my Bazzaz Z-Fi, Z-AFM & Dual Map Switch Selector. I just need to know what compression ratio I will end up with and what minimum and maximum (without losing money, octane and power) octane to run.

I want to hit that 130-135rwhp! I've spent money on suspension and will continue to upgrade the suspension even more, but I love being the fastest "600cc" class bike in the Northwestern part of my state. Now I want to make sure I keep that crown as others are starting to challenge me and I also want to run with the 750's. Oh, and for Oklahoma, my Pirelli Rosso Corsa tires have no chicken strips,which among my riding group, I'm the only one; hasn't been on the track...yet
FYI I did the thinnest head gasket available (.45?) and run 93 pump sunoco with it and produce 129 rwhp after degreeing the cams with all the other usual power producing mods. No other internal engine mods. You will not hit 130+ without other internal engine work or if you have access to u4 or other high power fuels it may give you that extra bump. You could easily tune for 93 pump plus whatever you can get your hands on.
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post #20 of 27 Old 12-09-2016, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by PainfullySlo View Post
FYI I did the thinnest head gasket available (.45?) and run 93 pump sunoco with it and produce 129 rwhp after degreeing the cams with all the other usual power producing mods. No other internal engine mods. You will not hit 130+ without other internal engine work or if you have access to u4 or other high power fuels it may give you that extra bump. You could easily tune for 93 pump plus whatever you can get your hands on.
Damn, What compression ratio that get you too? I was thinking .50 to land me at 14.0:1 since I wont be decking my heads. I have no way of doing that here in the middle of nowhere Oklahoma. I also only have 7900 miles on the bike. I wasn't planning on hitting 130hp with just this mod, 130-135hp is just my goal. But this would get me damn close.

Do you have to run shorter spark plugs? I heard you did, they were expensive and had to be changed out rather often.

Unfortunately, what sucks, is I don't have a tuner anywhere near me so when it comes to degreeing my cams, Im screwed. I'd have to take my bike 300 miles to Dallas and find someone who knows that they are doing to get it done. When you say degreeing the cams, do you mean physically degreeing them a certain amount of degrees on the degree wheel by turning it or do you mean by advancing the timing by flashing the ECU?

I have FlashTune and Im so effing disappointment. I bought the entire $400 setup. They dont send you any, nor do they have ANY maps available that actually give you a performance increase. They don't touch the fuel maps nor do they touch the Timing Tables. So when I flashed my bike with their "Unrestricted Map", I got the exact same results on the dyno. So the guy at the dyno, Harley shop, had no idea. I asked if I could play around and take a look. He allowed me and thats when I noticed that nothing was different. I've been battling over email for the past 2 months about this. They expect you to take it to the dyno and do it yourself. But they also sell Canned Tunes where you send in your ECU. So I'm like, WTF? I made a big mistake. I have no idea where I need to increase the timing and how much. I'm looking for a class that I can take for EFI Tuning, but there's nothing around me.

I neeed.... my bike needs some serious help here. I barely beat the 600cc class which included two Daytona 675R's by my own fuel map tuning with my Bazzaz Z-Fi & Z-AFM running this bitch rich at 12.8 AFR

2014 ZX-6R 636: M4 Street Slayer Exhaust, FlashTune Bike Tuning Kit, Bazzaz Z-Fi, Z-AFM, MJS Headers, K&N Race Air Filter, RaceTech Gold Valve Fork Kit w/ Bottom & Top-Out Mod, reshimmed & RT Fork Springs, RaceTech Gold Valve Shock w/ Refreshed internals & RT Powdercoated Lime Green Spring, D.I.D Gold Chain, Vortex -1 front sprocket, PMP Sprockets Anodized Green +2 rear aluminum sprocket (-1/+2), GPVR4, Fender Eliminator Kit, MotoDynamics Smoked Integrated LED Taillight, '13 Lower Green Fairings, R6 Throttle Tube, Pro Grip Padded Tank Pad, Stomp Grip Clear Tank Pads, Pazzo IFX Candy Green Shorty Levers, Raskal Graffiks Wheel Decals, Puig Double Bubble Dark Smoke Windscreen, Driven Block-Off Plates, Driven Gold Spools, Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 Bi-Xenon Projectors, Morimoto 5Five 50w 6000k HID's, (6) Morimoto XC RGB Angel Eyes, Pirelli Diablo Rosso Corsa's, etc...
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post #21 of 27 Old 12-11-2016, 04:35 AM
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Damn, What compression ratio that get you too? I was thinking .50 to land me at 14.0:1 since I wont be decking my heads. I have no way of doing that here in the middle of nowhere Oklahoma. I also only have 7900 miles on the bike. I wasn't planning on hitting 130hp with just this mod, 130-135hp is just my goal. But this would get me damn close.

Do you have to run shorter spark plugs? I heard you did, they were expensive and had to be changed out rather often.

Unfortunately, what sucks, is I don't have a tuner anywhere near me so when it comes to degreeing my cams, Im screwed. I'd have to take my bike 300 miles to Dallas and find someone who knows that they are doing to get it done. When you say degreeing the cams, do you mean physically degreeing them a certain amount of degrees on the degree wheel by turning it or do you mean by advancing the timing by flashing the ECU?

I have FlashTune and Im so effing disappointment. I bought the entire $400 setup. They dont send you any, nor do they have ANY maps available that actually give you a performance increase. They don't touch the fuel maps nor do they touch the Timing Tables. So when I flashed my bike with their "Unrestricted Map", I got the exact same results on the dyno. So the guy at the dyno, Harley shop, had no idea. I asked if I could play around and take a look. He allowed me and thats when I noticed that nothing was different. I've been battling over email for the past 2 months about this. They expect you to take it to the dyno and do it yourself. But they also sell Canned Tunes where you send in your ECU. So I'm like, WTF? I made a big mistake. I have no idea where I need to increase the timing and how much. I'm looking for a class that I can take for EFI Tuning, but there's nothing around me.

I neeed.... my bike needs some serious help here. I barely beat the 600cc class which included two Daytona 675R's by my own fuel map tuning with my Bazzaz Z-Fi & Z-AFM running this bitch rich at 12.8 AFR
Best guess on compression ratio is 14.2:1. I did not deck the heads either as the engine was brand new. I was fortunate enough to have the ear of a Kawasaki engineer for a bit and one of the topics that we discussed was the plugs. He felt that I did not need to run anything other than OEM which I have been doing with great success. The gap is incredibly tight however so if you ever end up decking the head after that gasket you would need to move to the electrodeless plugs.

I did the cam degreeing myself: Just a little Sunday project...
It only takes a few tools to do the job but you need to be sure you are doing it right or your valve train will not be happy with you. I don't know how comfortable you are with a wrench in your hand but if you are going to take up racing, I suggest you learn how to work on your own bike or you will be paying LOTS of money to people to fix your broken stuff =)

As for FlashTune...yeah, it isn't anything more than a tool. You need to do the work yourself. Or you ask someone like me who has a timing map all setup =)

I handle fuel management through my Bazzaz so I do not have a modified fuel map in the ECU. I move around a bit much to have to go back into the ECU every time that I want to make a fuel change. The Bazzaz handles that far better IMO.

Also, keep in mind that those 675Rs have a serious displacement advantage. It is pretty normal to be pulled by them on the straights on just about any 600 (except ours hahaha). Judge your performance against the R6 and I bet you will find you are doing better than you think.

Finally, and I mean no disrespect here, but beating any bike at your skill level is far more a function of rider skill and not bike performance. It isn't until you get to the top of the bracket you are in (whether that is novice, amateur, or expert racing) where the bike performance starts to matter more. I used to beat faster bikes all the time on my VERY under powered GSXR (104hp lol). It wasn't until I started fighting for podiums where I moved to a more competitive platform because the gap in rider skill is much smaller at that end of the class so we need to grab any advantage at that point.

In closing: it is great that you want to do these mods if time and budget allows. Right now you may be better served improving your skills which will yield bigger gains on the racetrack. All a few extra HP will do is allow you to pull a gap on the straights. If someone is a better rider, they will still catch right back up in the first corner and pass you in the second.

Now, there is no reason why you can't work on your skills AND make these mods at the same time. Just be sure that you do not use that extra HP as a crutch that keeps you from maximizing your corner speed. That is where the racing happens and no amount of engine tuning can fix that for you =)

Last edited by PainfullySlo; 12-11-2016 at 04:44 AM.
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post #22 of 27 Old 12-23-2016, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PainfullySlo View Post
Best guess on compression ratio is 14.2:1. I did not deck the heads either as the engine was brand new. I was fortunate enough to have the ear of a Kawasaki engineer for a bit and one of the topics that we discussed was the plugs. He felt that I did not need to run anything other than OEM which I have been doing with great success. The gap is incredibly tight however so if you ever end up decking the head after that gasket you would need to move to the electrodeless plugs.

I did the cam degreeing myself: Just a little Sunday project...
It only takes a few tools to do the job but you need to be sure you are doing it right or your valve train will not be happy with you. I don't know how comfortable you are with a wrench in your hand but if you are going to take up racing, I suggest you learn how to work on your own bike or you will be paying LOTS of money to people to fix your broken stuff =)

As for FlashTune...yeah, it isn't anything more than a tool. You need to do the work yourself. Or you ask someone like me who has a timing map all setup =)

I handle fuel management through my Bazzaz so I do not have a modified fuel map in the ECU. I move around a bit much to have to go back into the ECU every time that I want to make a fuel change. The Bazzaz handles that far better IMO.

Also, keep in mind that those 675Rs have a serious displacement advantage. It is pretty normal to be pulled by them on the straights on just about any 600 (except ours hahaha). Judge your performance against the R6 and I bet you will find you are doing better than you think.

Finally, and I mean no disrespect here, but beating any bike at your skill level is far more a function of rider skill and not bike performance. It isn't until you get to the top of the bracket you are in (whether that is novice, amateur, or expert racing) where the bike performance starts to matter more. I used to beat faster bikes all the time on my VERY under powered GSXR (104hp lol). It wasn't until I started fighting for podiums where I moved to a more competitive platform because the gap in rider skill is much smaller at that end of the class so we need to grab any advantage at that point.

In closing: it is great that you want to do these mods if time and budget allows. Right now you may be better served improving your skills which will yield bigger gains on the racetrack. All a few extra HP will do is allow you to pull a gap on the straights. If someone is a better rider, they will still catch right back up in the first corner and pass you in the second.

Now, there is no reason why you can't work on your skills AND make these mods at the same time. Just be sure that you do not use that extra HP as a crutch that keeps you from maximizing your corner speed. That is where the racing happens and no amount of engine tuning can fix that for you =)
Thank you for all of that information. I really appreciate it. I myself use my Bazzaz Z-Fi & Z-AFM for my fuel, but what I did with my fuel map, is I loaded a map from a flashed file on FTECU's database to get me started, but I let my Bazzaz do the fuel map. What upsets me with FlashTune, is that they didn't touch a damn thing with their fuel map or ignition tables. I literally got no performance increase. Honestly did not get as much ride-ability improvement as I expected, because the only thing they did was select "True" for Decel Injector Cut, which I could have done. Now that I have a project bike, which I am restoring; 2007 GSX-R 750, because the previous owner ONLY changed the oil. 38k miles on this bike and it was the dirtiest bike I have ever encountered in my life. Im not talking about the fairings. Im talking on the inside. The K&N air filter had about 3mm worth of grime for instance. I also have to replace the steering bearings, which I am in the middle of doing now (so yes, I have no problem with tools and turning a wrench, You should see my work area. I've just never dove into an engine like this before. Sure, I've changed transmissions. wheel hubs, etc... in vehicles, but never degreed cams or anything like that.), but I also have to find a company to rebuild the steering damper (just because it has 38k miles on it, have my guys at RaceTech rebuild the rear shock, buy some stock dog bones and sell these lowering links to raise it back up, either rebend or buy a used stock kickstand, replace the tires that have plenty of tread on them, but they are Full Bore, so I'll put some Q3's on them, sprockets, chain, etc....

But anyway, what I was getting at, was I looked up the files they had for this GSX-R. The difference between the stock restricted map, stock restricted European map and then their Unrestricted maps was huge. I feel like I got robbed. The difference in ignition, ignition advance, fuel map and a few other parameter files was changed and changed big! But this 636 got nothing! I've been emailing them back and forth expressing my displeasure about this and the fact that I don't have near the options that the Suzuki has nor can I raise my rev limiter to 500rpm+ or at all. I mean, what I have access to is half of what I can on my bike. For $450, other than getting the cable to flash my ECU anytime I want or flash other people's bikes ($50 on bike harness + $100 license), I expected to get an actual flashed ECU file just like what people are very happy with their ECU flashes on performance with ECU Unleashed, GUHL, Brock's Performance, etc... They all got fuel, ignition and other changes.

So I wish I would have bought the ECU Unleashed kit instead. They can do many more bikes. FTECU can only do the Big 4 manufacturers and it also depends on what bike model also. If it's not a supersport, they probably can't support it. However they can do a GSX-S to my surprise.

Anyway, I already have your link pulled up. I will bookmark it and keep it. Im really thinking of going to school for motorcycle EFI Tuning, but I also don't want to restrict myself just to bikes so I have a safety net. My idea, since I'm in Oklahoma, is to lease a mobile DynoJet dyno and go from dealership to dealership across the states that touch Oklahoma and have ECU Flashing Dyno events. Obviously I know there's red tape, but it's no different than any other performance shop. But anyway...


I read that if I went with the .45 gasket, 10hp from pump gas and 13hp from VP Racing MR12. Well, I checked the prices on MR12 and HELL NO! That shit is $140 for a 5 gallon can. I can get VP MS109 for $80, which I believe is ethanol base, which I only run 100% gasoline in my bike, the only pro to Oklahoma, but the con is that our premium is 91 octane, not 93. But that's why I will have to dilute my gasoline with some 101 pump gas everytime I ride to get to the magical number that I can run, which I don't know what that magical number is at 14.1:1 - 14.2:1 compression ratio. If I can run 93 pump gas, then I assume the highest octane I can run without wasting money and actually decreasing power is roughly 98 octane.

I would like to convert my bike over to be able to run E-85. I mean, I have 4 different fuel maps to switch with on the fly. Low Power Mode, High Power Mode and my Bazzaz Dual Map Switch Selector.

I'm also rattling the idea of running water/meth injection if it's not going to add anymore than 8lbs max.



Now, no, I'm not your average, must get power to be fast kind of person. I just want to squeeze the power out of this bike that it has. It's a stroked 599cc and it's been limited by compression, the intake & exhaust valves, the heads, crankshaft (EDR Performance only flashed their bike, installed Corillo Connecting Rods, intake, full exhaust & rebalanced the OEM crankshaft to make 130rwhp), intake, heavy components, bearings inside the motor, connecting rods and weight. Obviously corners have also been cut with the suspension too, but I've upgraded that... for now and I'm going to work with it for a while till upgrading to cartridges and a completely new shock. I believe in order to be a better rider, you don't just throw the best parts on it and then try to figure out how to ride the bike. If I threw on an Ohlins cartridge kit and rear shock, I wouldn't know what to feel, what direction to go with and I would never get it dialed in right. Honestly, I'd probably have it set up worse than my current setup or just flat out stock.


I'm just wanting to chase that 130hp mark for fun. Just want the baddest most powerful 600cc class bike around, let alone the baddest & most powerful 636 when I'm getting outran by 2 other 636's with Guhl Motorsports flashed ECU & the other flashed by ECU Unleashed. It's embarrassing! Yes, I will be improving my riding skills at the same time, but I do need to say this. I'm not a new rider. I'm 30 and have been riding for 10 years. Sales Manager at a Kawasaki, Yamaha & Honda dealership. Everyone comes to me for advice, want me to help them improve their riding, advice on gear, aftermarket accessories, want their bike fixed, repaired, maintained, suspension setup, you name it. I'm also an authorized RaceTech Suspension dealer so I get everything at cost and since I don't have a store front myself, I'm about to lose that once I leave the dealership, but currently I don't have to hold to MSRP's.

My skill level is higher than probably 75% on this board, however its nowhere near as good as I want it to be at. I'm limited because I have to live in Oklahoma with no twisties, all straight roads instead of Dallas. I could atleast find twisty roads outside of Dallas. Next Spring, I plan on bringing as many friends as possible, once my trailer is finished, and go to Northern Arkansas where I use to visit my grandmother in Batesville, AR. It's beautiful, elevation changes like crazy, no straight roads, just turns on a very nice 2 lane blacktop.

But I have a couple bigger things I need to make happen first. A job is #1 priority. It's hard to find a job in this shitty small city of 60k due to either getting minimum wage or manual labor, which I cannot perform due to my disability with my ankle from a car accident.

There's a track 2 hours away. I go every month for their trackdays to watch and sometimes twice a month for when they host the CMRA races. I've always wanted to get on the track. Even said I was going to this year, said last year, but I lost my job when I thought I could sell cars and make more money than selling bikes making less money per sale. Not the same. I hate sales anyway and have been trying to get out of it ever since I got into it 10 years ago. I'm more of on operations guy. But bikes.... I can sell. I broke every sales record for that company that's been in business for 25 years. One of them, I completely shattered it. I also left because the GM, been there for 15 years, was impossible to work for, but he hired a guy shortly after me to take his place in 2 years for when he retired. We were friends. But working together, he had power trips and demanded respect so he got no respect and I stood up to him. The GM, Dwight, turned him into Dwight Junior. Worked there twice. Didn't work out either times. They just kept screwing with me. When your'e the best sales person, yet the Sales Manager and things are running smoothly & improving overall in the department, they micromanaged me and my department. You don't screw with your best sales person. That's at EVERY dealership whether it be cars, boats, bikes, ... The top salesman gets to do whatever he wants. I've seen it and I've heard it. People who work at car dealerships have worked at other dealerships.

But anyway, sorry. Didn't mean to get on a personal story. My other reason, also financially, is because (other than the 2007 GSX-R 750) the 2014 636 is my baby. It;s my only bike and I still owe $5800 on it, which isn't bad after 2 1/2 years. Bought it at cost minus $500 rebate in May 2014, since I worked at the dealership @ $11,7xx. Forgot the exact amount, but I only financed $10,2xxx due to $1000 down & the $500 rebate. Had to go with a super high APR at the time of 24% for a year, only due to medical bills, till I refinanced a year ago at 4.74%. So once I get this GSX-R all fixed and road worthy to my satisfaction, which is very high, with a few performance upgrades as long as I can gain profit from it, hell... I might even leave the shit brand tires on it, I'm selling it to pay off my bike then buy my street literbike or wait & MAYBE putting that money in a 1 year CD to wait to see if Aprilia makes 2 improvements on their RSV4 RR or one improvement on their RF Factory bike ($15k bike vs $20k bike.) The RR needs to shed some weight, but both bikes needs a much much narrower gas tank, which even Sport Rider complains about. The RF Factory bike already weighs under 400lbs so it doesn't need to shed any weight, but man, I'd hate to replace that Carbon Fiber bodywork or just a piece of it.

It's my dream bike. It's the bike I will ride on the street. Then the ZX-6R, paid off, will be my dedicated track bike. I'm giving Aprilia 1 more year to atleast narrow that super insane wide gas tank. If not, then I'm going for the BMW S1000RR. But I just read the latest edition of Sport Rider and Suzuki just made the best Japanese bike yet and made huge leaps. 2017 will have a GSX-R1000 and a GSX-R1000R which has the electronic Ohlins suspension. No R1 for me. It's a terrible street bike, but a great track bike. The track I have here is better suited for 600's than 1000's, but my end game here is to be back in Dallas as soon as I can get rid of some of this debt, save up some money and secure a job where my resume came from where people actually understand what it means, unlike where I am at. People don't know what to think of my corporate resume here so they think I'm overqualified.

But anyway, I have friends I ride with, so obviously it's a pissing contest when we go out on the paved backroads. I already have the fastest 600cc class bike in the area, but I'm so close to the GSX-R 750's. No one here has a flashed ECU let alone a properly tuned PCV. I'm the only one running a Bazzaz. I've got $6k in my bike. Alot of that is cosmetic like my $500 headlight setup, which I could easily sell for that much when it gets turned into a dedicated track bike.

So I'm just wanting to be able to run with the 750's, which I'm doing, but I want to be able to actually beat them. Hey, don't blame me, it's Oklahoma... straight roads. Its all we have. But there are a couple spots where there's sections of twisties and I blow by everyone on those. I'm the only one who doesn't have chicken strips on my Pirelli Rosso Corsa's. I run circles around these guys in turns & twisties. I took my girlfriend's Ninja 300... sorry, now ex girlfriend... around this long sweeping turn with 6 other guys, 2 literbikes and 4 600's. Everyone knew to stay behind me, even on a 300. I overtook my friend on the inside on his 2013 CBR10000RR. It was sweet. I had it WOT the entire time.

And that's the other problem. All of these new riders are buying literbikes. So there are more and more literbikes out there, with most of them who should start out on a 300, 500 or 650 or atleast a 600, but not a 1000. But either way, there's more and more of them. Now I know I can't run with a literbike and I'm not trying to, but I also don't want to be left in the dust like us 600's did to my ex gf on her 300. 2 1/2 years with that woman. We were were going to get married at Hallett Motor Speedway by renting the track for the entire day, have the reception there and spend the night. I originally got the GSXR for her, because she wanted a 600. I was going to flash it and neuter the hell out of it, just so she could keep up with us, teach her how to ride a supersport and when she got the money to buy her own, I was going to sell it to pay of my bike and use the extra cash for my street literbike. Which the Aprilia Tuono 1100 is calling my name too. Now THAT is a bike, but a bike I'll probably get when I turn 40. Still has all the speed of an RSV4 (well, damn close), but much more comfortable & upright.


But anyway, wow. Didn't mean for this post to be this long. Bottom line, I'm one of the best skilled street riders in my area. I just want to make this bike the funnest bike for the street while it's on the street, before it hits the track.



Back on topic.

So what alternative fuel can I use to get maximum power, for when I want it, other than MR12? I mean, what octane is the highest I can run without blowing money & decreasing power due to higher the octane, the slower it burns? Is it 98, 101?

Any idea on the compression ratio between the .45 & the .50? Maybe I don't need the .45 and run 14.2:1 compression ratio.

Do I really need to have my valves checked every 6000 miles or whatever it is, possibly adjusted if I do this? That's kind of a big deal, especially for a current streetbike, which would make it hard to resell unless I take the hit of selling it as a track only bike instead of a combo package bike where I can sell it as either/or as both.

I'm also thinking about getting my heads ported & polished since the heads will be off anyway and since it's Winter, the time I tear down my bike to clean it to showroom quality and install my major mods, I'll have the time. Even thought about doing it myself, but if I do that, I'm going to find some old 16 valve inline 4 cylinder heads to practice on first, if not take a course at the local Votech, if they will dive into that for me. I just don't want to screw anything up. It's not that I don't have the mechanical skills, it's just that same feeling everytime someone ports & polishes their first set of head for the first time. Or I'll send it to Grape to have him do it, depending on price. I'm wanting to be able to change my sprockets from -1/+2 to just -1/+1 or -1/+0 to gain some of that top end back, even though I rarely hit 170mph (176mph indicated before I ever changed my sprockets, which was one of the first things I did so I didn't have my Bazzaz as dialed in as it is now even though it's not dialed in, just set at 12.8AFR across the board, which I know is not going to give me the most performance, but I don't have a reputable tuner near me) and when I hit that top speed, I was bouncing off the rev limiter, so I know this bike has some power, but even better yet, POTENTIAL and that's all I'm trying to get out of this bike. It's potential.


Anything else I need to know, please let me know. When I do this, I'll be wearing my GoPro to make a How-To, even though I won't know what I'm doing,. Too bad Kawasaki only makes a racing catalog & not a racing service manual. LOL
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2014 ZX-6R 636: M4 Street Slayer Exhaust, FlashTune Bike Tuning Kit, Bazzaz Z-Fi, Z-AFM, MJS Headers, K&N Race Air Filter, RaceTech Gold Valve Fork Kit w/ Bottom & Top-Out Mod, reshimmed & RT Fork Springs, RaceTech Gold Valve Shock w/ Refreshed internals & RT Powdercoated Lime Green Spring, D.I.D Gold Chain, Vortex -1 front sprocket, PMP Sprockets Anodized Green +2 rear aluminum sprocket (-1/+2), GPVR4, Fender Eliminator Kit, MotoDynamics Smoked Integrated LED Taillight, '13 Lower Green Fairings, R6 Throttle Tube, Pro Grip Padded Tank Pad, Stomp Grip Clear Tank Pads, Pazzo IFX Candy Green Shorty Levers, Raskal Graffiks Wheel Decals, Puig Double Bubble Dark Smoke Windscreen, Driven Block-Off Plates, Driven Gold Spools, Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 Bi-Xenon Projectors, Morimoto 5Five 50w 6000k HID's, (6) Morimoto XC RGB Angel Eyes, Pirelli Diablo Rosso Corsa's, etc...

Last edited by Texas636; 01-07-2017 at 03:37 PM.
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post #23 of 27 Old 12-23-2016, 01:15 PM
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I Ride: 2007 V-Star 1300, 2014 ZX-6R, 1986 Yamaha YZ250 (bored & stroked - 2 stroke)
Oh yeah, forgot to mention. I bought a set of 09-12 stock velocity stacks. Obviously I can't install it till I have it at a tuner on the dyno to tune for it. But I bet that gets me to the 130 peak horsepower, but with the sacrifice of midrange power. If i lose too much midrange, which is what kills it on the street and surely does on the track, then I'll go back to my stock 2014 velocity stacks. But when it goes to the track, then I think that's where it will shine.

2014 ZX-6R 636: M4 Street Slayer Exhaust, FlashTune Bike Tuning Kit, Bazzaz Z-Fi, Z-AFM, MJS Headers, K&N Race Air Filter, RaceTech Gold Valve Fork Kit w/ Bottom & Top-Out Mod, reshimmed & RT Fork Springs, RaceTech Gold Valve Shock w/ Refreshed internals & RT Powdercoated Lime Green Spring, D.I.D Gold Chain, Vortex -1 front sprocket, PMP Sprockets Anodized Green +2 rear aluminum sprocket (-1/+2), GPVR4, Fender Eliminator Kit, MotoDynamics Smoked Integrated LED Taillight, '13 Lower Green Fairings, R6 Throttle Tube, Pro Grip Padded Tank Pad, Stomp Grip Clear Tank Pads, Pazzo IFX Candy Green Shorty Levers, Raskal Graffiks Wheel Decals, Puig Double Bubble Dark Smoke Windscreen, Driven Block-Off Plates, Driven Gold Spools, Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 Bi-Xenon Projectors, Morimoto 5Five 50w 6000k HID's, (6) Morimoto XC RGB Angel Eyes, Pirelli Diablo Rosso Corsa's, etc...
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post #24 of 27 Old 12-23-2016, 01:18 PM
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TL;DR haha....but I can't tell if that's a garage turned into a living room or a living room turned into a garage ...regardless, it looks like an awesome man cave! I like it!

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post #25 of 27 Old 12-23-2016, 05:18 PM
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I Ride: 09 ZX6R (track only) 04 CR85R
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post #26 of 27 Old 01-07-2017, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbk1198 View Post
TL;DR haha....but I can't tell if that's a garage turned into a living room or a living room turned into a garage ...regardless, it looks like an awesome man cave! I like it!
Well first, when I was younger it was just a porch. Then later a porch cover got put over it, then later after that, it got turned into a "Florida Room." I already have 2 living rooms. It's a fully insulated room, but with no central heat & air so I have a 75,000 BTU Tri-Fuel heater (Kerosene, Diesel and Jet A fuel.) A bit overkill for a 800'ish sq ft room, but hey, I can have that room at 20* to 100* in 15 minutes. 5 gallon tank will run for 9 hours. I'm forced to run diesel instead of kerosene now since I switched from my convection kerosene heater. $42 for 5 gallons vs $11 for 5 gallons. Burns the eyes, gives off an oder, cuts my maintenance time in half, doesn't burn as hot as kerosene even though it does say it shoots out at over 750*, but my thermal gun clocked it at 950*, but on a monthly basis, Id be spending over $200 a month on heating with the temps being in the low 20's & teens and lows in the double negative wind chills.

If I plan on staying in this house, I'll be replacing the one side door with a wider door instead of a storm door.

But thank you. It's a work in progress. I have alot of work to do on it still, which I will do when it's summer time. I had to put everything else on hold since Im focusing on the bikes. I have actually improved it a bit since those pictures. I am proud of it, but I can only fit sportbikes and dirtbikes in the door and I have to be sitting on the bike to wheel it in. But it's a large room connected to the house, so atleast it's alot better than my ZX-6R being parked and worked on in my bedroom like it use to be. Which use to be a garage LOL. This house has had 3 add ons & one major modification
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2014 ZX-6R 636: M4 Street Slayer Exhaust, FlashTune Bike Tuning Kit, Bazzaz Z-Fi, Z-AFM, MJS Headers, K&N Race Air Filter, RaceTech Gold Valve Fork Kit w/ Bottom & Top-Out Mod, reshimmed & RT Fork Springs, RaceTech Gold Valve Shock w/ Refreshed internals & RT Powdercoated Lime Green Spring, D.I.D Gold Chain, Vortex -1 front sprocket, PMP Sprockets Anodized Green +2 rear aluminum sprocket (-1/+2), GPVR4, Fender Eliminator Kit, MotoDynamics Smoked Integrated LED Taillight, '13 Lower Green Fairings, R6 Throttle Tube, Pro Grip Padded Tank Pad, Stomp Grip Clear Tank Pads, Pazzo IFX Candy Green Shorty Levers, Raskal Graffiks Wheel Decals, Puig Double Bubble Dark Smoke Windscreen, Driven Block-Off Plates, Driven Gold Spools, Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 Bi-Xenon Projectors, Morimoto 5Five 50w 6000k HID's, (6) Morimoto XC RGB Angel Eyes, Pirelli Diablo Rosso Corsa's, etc...
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post #27 of 27 Old 01-08-2017, 04:21 AM
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