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Sabotage 2009 ZX6R Track build

33K views 139 replies 28 participants last post by  bhalleran 
#1 ·
Hello everyone, I just bought a theft recovery 09 zx6r two weeks ago for $1400 and after some insightful reviews from the members here, I've decided to turn the bike into a track weapon for 2017 season instead . I currently have a CBR F3 track bike and enjoy it very much but I think it's time to get a machine that is more competitive. This build will be a little slow because of the expected expense for the 2016 track days so please bare with me.

As of right now, all I've done to the bike is put all the fuses back that the thieves took out and turned the ignition into a keyless switch (the thieves destroyed the ignition switch so it was useless)

Parts orders so far, M4 slip-on muffler, gas cap and a new stator cover (the current one has a crack which is leaking oil).

What the bike is missing that is a must is the header, everything else that is missing or damaged is irrelevant since they would be upgraded for track duty anyway.
 

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#2 ·
:eek: $1400? That seems like a good deal, I've been wanting to do something similar for a very long time! Good luck, and I look forward to seeing the progress!
 
#5 ·
What is the white line on the frame in the 3rd pic? Birdshit?

My advice would be buying a stock header and gutting it yourself (bunch of threads on gutted stock headers)

Also i would keep the damaged tank because of the design it is usually damaged in just about any spill. You can search for a oem tank without the fuel pump for cheap to have as a backup.

That is a hell of a find! Good luck what are the plans for the build??
 
#8 · (Edited)
Lol, the white line is a scratch I have to paint, while the thieves were loading the bike they appeared to have rubbed it on something hard that scraped it straight down

Thanks, was going to buy the stock header but didn't realize I had to gut it since the cat is removed when installing the m4. I'll definitely look up the how to.

Yeah I was on the same page of leaving the tank as is. I was going to sand the surface rust off then touch up the tank with black gloss paint
 
#9 ·
So today I was able to do some work on the track project. I removed all non essentials from the bike, cut off the remaining ignition switch loop from the upper tree that the thieves damages when they busted the ignition and I hot wired a new ignition switch that I will attach to the upper tree with a bracket.

I was also able to order some parts. I ordered the headers, header gaskets and connecting bolts.
 

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#10 ·
So my headers came in today, I removed the baffle to give the OEM headers a full system exhaust flow. It was easier then I thought it would be. All you need is a metal hole cutter, a big drill bit, a long chisel, and a hammer. You bore the hole with the hole cutter then you break the remaining baffle circle by drilling straight down, then you chisel the rest away. Because you drilled straight down to break the baffle circle, the whole thing collapse when you start chiseling. Took me about 20 minutes complete and the cost was $50 for the header and $12 for the hole cutter

Bike master clutch lever also arrived, so I installed that onto the perch, the previous clutch lever was broken in half

I also fabricated my knew ignition perch and installed the switch. It's not complete yet, just a mock up to make sure everything fits right.

After I installed the headers onto the bike, to finish out the day I took a picture of all my sport bikes together
 

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#12 ·
Great find and looking good with the progress!

If you don't mind me asking, where/how did you find the deal on the bike to begin with?
 
#18 ·
Yeah I have stands, the CBR is currently using them, once I start removing the tank and wheels it will be a must. So far, I just have not had the need for it... The convenience of using them right now is not worth the efforts of putting the kick stand back on the cbr so I can take the stand
 
#19 ·
Did some work on the bike today. The new generic keyless gas cap arrived and the tank grips also. I was also able to square the ignition switch away, works liked a charm... BTW, I rounded off the edges on the ignition switch perch just in case of a crash it's doesn't cut me open
 

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#20 ·
Four quick questions?

1) Who is the leading ZX6R ECU flash tuner? I know Bauce Racing is the leading tuner for the R6 and SBU for the R1. Now can someone direct me on who everyone go to for the 09 ZX6R. The flash would be for BMC race filter, baffle removed OEM header with M4 GP exhaust with no baffle either and possible air box mod

2) I have the Tygon tube which will delete the rear reservoir. This piece was a left over after I did the reservoir delete on my F3. I need a cap for the reservoir, any suggestion on what I can use to cap it off where I don't have to order a whole new set just for the cap

3) The Exhaust servo motor, after I flash the ECU, I can specify to disable it and then just remove it, correct?

4)The air box and ram air mod, is it worth the effort for the supposed extra power? I'm going to do the AIS delete, with block off plates, not sure if the air induction mod is worth it for the zx6r, with a risk of water getting in the engine
 

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#21 ·
2) Just about anything. I would have it shorter then on the picture to begin with, and then use a m6 or m8 short bolt with the threads grinded down on it. cost = almost nothing.

4) All of the modifications you read about in the kit manual (and some of them here) will give you a little better conditions to get more power out of the engine. With everything else stock the ram air mod might give you 0.3hp. With more work done to the engine, better filter, full exhaust and so on, it might give you 1hp extra because of the better flow. One or two of those modifications is quite useless, but every little helps... Then its just up to you. You will have water going into the ram air anyway if you are riding in rain, i see it more as a filter for stones or leca from the sand traps. Wether its worth it or not is as always up to you, it is your bike and you have to evaluate risk vs gain.

If i wasnt competing though, i would probably put all my money in suspension and leave the engine alone, you dont need more power to have fun, the only reason for tuning the engine is to not be left behind on the straights in a competition. In my eyes that is :)
 
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#23 ·
For your first question there is a number of good ecu flashing company's flashtune, woolich, attack even does one. Read into some offer more than others but in the end your still gonna need a real engine tune to get things running perfect.
For your third question you can have the company flashing your ecu to disable it and than just remove it. That area that you remove it from is perfect for a bazzaz or PC.
Everything enro said I second.
 
#24 ·
Hello, cheef, I'm familiar with the flash tune interfaces you mentioned but I'm looking for that companies that every zx6r rider knows to send their ecu to for flashing. I can give example companies for Yamaha since I'm well adverse with them. A good tuner will know exactly how to flash your ecu based on the mods you did. A good tuner will set your bike just like a preset power commander map would based on the mods you did where a custom tune is optional. Bauce racing is that company for the R6 and SBU is that company for the R1. After these companies flash your ecu, a custom map will show very minimal gains and when I say minimal that's based on my standards for this project. And I'm speaking from experience from flash they did for me. With out that company I'm looking for, a fuel controller would be a must for me
 
#27 ·
As much research as I've done, it appears that the ZX6R evolution on ECU's being flashed is like three or four years (if not more) behind the development of ECU flashing with Yamaha.

I jumped on this thread that someone started in regards to ECU flashing and it was interesting to discover how Kawasaki is not as advanced with the flashing development like others are.
http://zx6r.com/mechanical-technical/68579-care-revisit-ecu-flashing-me.html

With my friends R6 we modded last month, I basically called Bauce Racing and told the tuner the mods I did and to flash the ECU for those mods. Once I got the ECU back, the bike ran like a dream. My friend could not believe how much more power we unlocked everywhere with the flash. With Yamaha, you can even enable the quick shifter where the ECU cuts the spark and all you need is the trigger on the shifter linkage which then connects to the ECU lines and that cost like $150 compared to $4-$5 hundred for a quick shifter

It appears that with this project, I will have to go back to primitive means of tuning to accommodate the mods that I did. Looks like I will have to buy the PCV and just have my tuner dyno tune the bike. To me this is ridiculous because instead of paying around $125 for a good flashed to fit my mods, I'll have to spend around $300 for the PCV then $350 for the tune :jack:

I did find a company called MRP Motorsport who claim they flash zx6r ECU to meet the proper fuel map with mods you do, but again since this is not a common practice with the owners of ZX6R's I don't know if I want to be a ginny pig with something that can mess up my engine if done wrong.
 
#28 ·
Suprisingly... this is standard practice in the racing biz. I talked to the guys at Gemini motorsports in East Troy, WI, and they said that this is what they did for the AMA National Guard/Jordan Suzuki Bikes they built. Even Jason Farrell, the guy who built my bike and one of the most successful/fastest independents racers out there, does this for his race bikes.

My understanding is that it comes down to convenience for the tuners... My bike has the KIT ecu on it. all it does is add quick shift capability, removes the reid valves and some other little things so codes don't get thrown. the Power Commander 5 for the fine fuel tuning... it is what it is... the big thing i've learned is: racing done right, ain't cheap... lol

by the time you get done with your bike you'll be in around $6K i bet... lol
 
#30 ·
My Expense calculation so far, appear after some more calculations you were more on the money:

$1400 Bike
$250 Race fairing (found used on eBay, in the mail)
$150 PC5 (found used on eBay, in the mail)
$250 M4 GP slip-on (found good deal on eBay)
$60 Headers (I gutted the baffle out)
$45 Green seat (in the mail)
$45 Stator cover (used eBay)
$45 Keyless gas cap (after market brand)
$30 right rearset bracket (was broken)
$20 Tank Grip
$107 Spiegler SS lines
$10 Monster Energy decals (to have OEM look on side)


Projected Expense
$67 Number plate decals
$350 Rearsets
$1500 Used suspension upgrades from here or eBay
$350 Dyno tune
$250 Dunlop Q3's
$180 CL C60 brake pads
$300 Quick shifter
$250 Chain sprocket kit
$100 Ohlin's damper re-valve
$75 ECU flash

$6014 Total
 
#31 ·
I did some work on the bike today. My hotbodies race glass arrived and I was able to do a mock install to make sure everything fits right before I paint it. I have to do some minor glass repair, its nothing big or even noticeable but I know.

I also did some more work on the dented gas tank, I just couldn't leave the tank with that stupid dent

Also some parts arrived, My angle air valve stem, my pc5 and my block off plates. Once I get some time and parts those will be installed
 

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#33 ·
I recently just missed out on the opportunity to purchase a race tech rear shock from one of the members here for $600. I messaged him but he did not realize that he never responded. I was lucky to find a race tech 25mm cartridge for $500 and now I still need to complete the suspension by buying a rear shock. Now my question is, what direction can I /should I go that will yield an acceptable outcome.

1) Should I keep looking until another race tech rear come up for sell and if nothing ever come up used then just bite the bullet and buy new?

or

2) Can I look for any reputable rear shock like Ohlins or Penske and just install those if I find a good price

I usually buy matching suspensions but I just finished spending a lot of money on my R1 and I cant afford to pay full price for mods on this build and still enjoy life so I have to cut corners to yield the same results and not affect my life style. So my question is will a mismatch suspension still yield a favorable outcome with the tuning aspect or will I struggle with set-up since there are two different mfg's.

Arguments usually take place on the matter of which brand to buy and the agreed upon outcome always stray toward which ever one you have the greatest support towards. With a mix match set obviously that is not possible

I guess my question can be answered with it all depends on the level of experience your tuner has but just want to hear peoples thoughts on the matter.

And one last thing, some people may say, I can adjust the suspension until I'm happy with a mix match set, but again just wondering what your thought on the matter is
 
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