Installing a Switched 12v Power Supply on a G2? - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 05-24-2016, 02:03 AM Thread Starter
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Installing a Switched 12v Power Supply on a G2?

Hi All,

Off to the TT in a couple of weeks and really want to have some way to charge my phone and run a USB powered SatNav.

Most of the products seem to just clip onto your battery, but I don't want to do that, I'd like something a bit more sophisticated and have it only come on with the ignition, and be fused.

Anyone done this to a G2 or other ZX6R with the same wiring loom? Not quite sure where to start...
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post #2 of 11 Old 05-24-2016, 03:35 AM
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What I did on another bike was install a two 12v outlet with a switch and fuse. I did it directly to the battery. I am not a big fan of splicing into factory wire loom, I would rather go directly to the battery. This way if I need to charge my phone I do not have to have the ignition on , I can plug in and walk away while it changes under my seat.

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post #3 of 11 Old 05-24-2016, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
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That does make a lot of sense. In terms of not cocking up the existing wiring.

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cliff-Top%C.../dp/B00QTA1G7Q
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post #4 of 11 Old 05-24-2016, 07:05 AM
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Yes that will work. I used one that had two cigarette style lighter outlet. I had a GPS and phone charger plugged into it. I think I got it at Meijer or Walmart for $10.

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post #5 of 11 Old 06-10-2016, 12:20 PM
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On my last bike I spliced into the main beam wiring loom that way it was on when the headlights were and turned itself off when the ignition went off really simple to do and causes no major draw on the circuit so is protected by the headlight fuse.
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post #6 of 11 Old 07-07-2016, 02:52 AM
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Still using a connection straight to the Battery, you could integrate a nice Rocker Switch.

With the Switch in a convenient (discreet or practical) location, it can be switched on or off, to provide power to all the attached USB devices, when you require.

Remember to switch it to the Off position when leaving your bike, or anything attached will become a drain on the battery (although while parked, you'd unlikely leave a mobile phone connected on the bike!)?.

Plus remember to add an inline Fuse on your Positive lead (close to the battery), for added protection for your electronic equipment.

As has been said below, your other option is to Tap in to a switched live feed, such as your dipped beam or ignition. Can be crimped in place, but positively identifying a switched live feed will require a volt meter.

Let us know how you get on with this.
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post #7 of 11 Old 07-07-2016, 04:35 AM
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OP,

If you don't want to damage the wiring harness, you can simply tuck a fine wire into the fuse holder for the headlamp circuit..... that will give you a power condition only when the headlights come on.

Use that light wire to provide the juice to a relay coil, so that relay only completes its circuit when the headlight comes on. The common pin of the relay should be fused, and go to the positive battery terminal. If you are using this 12V port to support USB devices, the fuse should be quite small in Amperage. I would recommend the smallest you can find -- probably 1 A, which is far more power than any USB device can accept.

Wire the positive lead of your outlet into the normally open side of the relay, and leave the normally closed side without anything attached. Negative side should be tied back to the battery; but that can be done anywhere that the harness is connected to the negative pole of the battery.

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post #8 of 11 Old 07-07-2016, 02:55 PM
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I just done the simple: battery + > fuse > switch > usb port > battery -. Can charge anything I need via USB and like Brandon said, walk away and leave stuff charging without leaving my keys in the ignition

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post #9 of 11 Old 07-07-2016, 03:02 PM
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I like to use the license plate light to power my farkle relays. No chance of frying anything important that way

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post #10 of 11 Old 07-08-2016, 02:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ2112 View Post
If you don't want to damage the wiring harness, you can simply tuck a fine wire into the fuse holder for the headlamp circuit..... that will give you a power condition only when the headlights come on.
On the "older" ZX6R's, no lights come on automatically - as you get with modern bikes, as a safety feature. You have to use the manual switch to put them on.

Another method I've used before, clean method of obtaining a positive feed, is an "Add-a-circuit" / "piggyback fuse". A conventional fuse with additional Live wire installed to the top of it, for a reliable new circuit to be added.
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Last edited by 29650; 07-08-2016 at 03:23 AM. Reason: Picture added.
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post #11 of 11 Old 07-08-2016, 03:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielJ View Post
On the "older" ZX6R's, no lights come on automatically - as you get with modern bikes, as a safety feature. You have to use the manual switch to put them on.

Another method I've used before, clean method of obtaining a positive feed, is an "Add-a-circuit" / "piggyback fuse". A conventional fuse with additional Live wire installed to the top of it, for a reliable new circuit to be added.
Thanks for sharing. Good to know.

The kill switch only gets power with the ignition on, right?

"There's this adage that we have 2 ears and one mouth so we should listen twice as much as we talk. Unfortunately with the Internet people have taken this old adage and turned it around. They have two eyes and 10 fingers so they think they need to post 5 times as much as they read. And since they have 10 fingers and one brain, they only have to think 10% of the time! "
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