valve adjustment - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 10-05-2009, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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valve adjustment

I just got my zx6r. its got about 11.5k miles on it and its pretty noisy. I was thinking of doing a valve adjustment on it. any one have a write up on how to do it? thanks
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post #2 of 11 Old 10-05-2009, 10:23 PM
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Seems a little early on the milage to be requiring it but none the less here is a link to a thread that answered all of my questions... thanks again detrafi
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post #3 of 11 Old 10-07-2009, 10:17 AM
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I agree.. a little early. You sure it will solve your noise?
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post #4 of 11 Old 10-09-2009, 12:31 PM
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I doubt the noise has anything to do with your valves. Sounds like typical Kawasaki ticking. When was your last oil change?
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post #5 of 11 Old 10-09-2009, 08:31 PM
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it also could be your cct getting a little loose causing excess noise. i would really check to see if it is the cct first before you go pulling the top end apart prematurely. a way you can check to see if it's your cc makeing the noise is to find out which side your cct is on and see if that side is producing a louder ticking noise compared to the other side. for example my 08's cct is on the right side and when it gets loose the ticking noise is the loudest on the right side compared to the left side. keep us updated and good luck mate.
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post #6 of 11 Old 10-13-2009, 05:54 AM
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so they are all a bit noisy like (when rocker arms are noisy ) i was thinking there was something wrong with mine as it is a bit tappety
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post #7 of 11 Old 10-13-2009, 11:47 AM
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It is not too early to be adjusting the valves. As a matter a fact it is a very good idea to do them early, since this is when they move the most. ( I have done about 10,000 bikes over the 30+ years I've been working on bikes and they all, always need adjustments, no such thing as too often or too early!)
As far as the write up that was linked, I would add this.
-You can use ziptie's to ziptie the cam chain to the cam sprockets before you remove the cam chain tensioner (this will mean you can only move one cam at a time, but makes reassembly super easy and fast) **don't drop any shims down the cam slot, or into the engine
-Take really good measurements and even better notes
- Have a clean bench to work off!!
-Make sure to retract the cam chain tensioner before you try to remove or reinstall
-The torque specs, on the cam caps only use 92 in lbs, the 104 recommended is too much and after a few times on and off, they will pull threads
-Use a micrometer, not a verneer caliper, way more accurate.
-Have the service manual and follow it pretty closely- if you havent done it before it will help
-Take digital pics, of the process if you feel it will help you remember how everything was routed and ziptied up
-When you finally actually get to the adjusting part of the valve adjustment- don't just do the "go-no go" with the feeler guages and say "they are within spec" .0043"-.0075"///.0087"-.0122" (speculating because I dont know what year you have). Go the extra step and adjust all 8 intakes so they have the same desired clearance (as example above--set the intakes at .0055" and the exhuasts at .010"--your bike will love you) Kawasaki shims come in .5mm jumps, but honda shims (same 7.5mm shim) come in .25mm increments- thus you can be way more precise with your adjustments. While some of the aftermarket shim kits will fit and work okay, they too have the .5mm increments and are only surface hardened about .0008" so they dont last as long, or give you as much adjustability.
( Almost every current model sportbike or shim under bucket bike made today takes the same 7.5mm diameter shims. Just Honda's are the least expensive and biggest selection, kaw and suz being the highest cost and least size choices can look up a 600RR, F4I or 1000rr etc and find what you need- if you take my advice and use honda shims)

There is alot more to the valve adjustment than just adjusting the valves, and 9 hours time for a first timer is pretty quick.
You still need to adjust TPS, synchronize the throttle bodies, lube the cables and adjust (clean the throttle bodies- but dont spray carb cleaner in them, it will remove the coatings from the factory) check the rest of your sensors and make adjustments, plus all those other pesky maintainance items you routinely need, air filter, plugs, oil/filter change, check/adjust the steering head bearings, adjust/lube the chain etc...etc...
- Put a little anti sieze on the spark plug threads (but not the 1st 2), and torque them to 9 ft lbs--even if yours are iridiums and good enough to re-use.
Good luck and take your time, this is not a process to go through as fast as you can ( I've done thousands and thousands of them and it still takes me about 7-8 hours per bike to go through the entire "tune-up" procedure I follow).
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post #8 of 11 Old 05-09-2013, 01:55 PM
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I am having what seems to be the same problem here and im thinking its the cct but how the hell do i get to or locate the cct bolt to adjust it? heres a vid below of what it sounds like right now its a 2003 Zx6r 636

03 zx6r 636 annoying noise? - YouTube
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post #9 of 11 Old 05-09-2013, 02:31 PM
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post #10 of 11 Old 05-09-2013, 03:40 PM
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post #11 of 11 Old 05-09-2013, 05:52 PM
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I believe the recommended mileage for the first valve adjustment is 18K, so I wouldnt worry about it for a bit. Just get out and ride!
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