2009 zx6r first oil change done by myself - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 36 Old 08-16-2011, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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2009 zx6r first oil change done by myself

LIKE I HAVE SAID BEFORE I HAVE NEVER WORKED ON ANYTHING EVER BEFORE MECHANICALLY IN MY LIFE ....

I JUST ORDERED 300V MOTOR OIL 10W40 (4L) OFF OF AMAZON AND A KN MODEL NUMBER 303 OIL FILTER

I STILL HAVE TO PURCHASE A TORQUE WRENCH (ANY SUGGESTIONS ?) AND THEN I THINK I AM READY......

FROM WHAT I HAVE READ ON THE INTERNET SO FAR...

I SHOULD LET THE BIKE WARM UP FOR A FEW MIN. TO THIN THE OIL OUT ? YEAH ? ANY IDEA TO WHAT DEGREES ?

LOOSEN OIL FILLER CAP AND THEN REMOVE DRAIN PLUG ( RE TIGHTEN TO 21 FT/LB)

THEN REMOVE FILTER (RE TIGHTEN TO 13 FT/LB

FILL NEW OIL FILTER ? AND THEN OIL O RING

REPLACE WASHER ON OIL FILTER ? (NECESSARY?)

ADD 3.1 L (including the oil you poured into the filter)

WHICH SHOULD BE until you see oil between the two marks in the sight glass.

I GOT THIS INFO FROM A "KAWIFORUMS" HOW TO...

IS THIS EVERYTHING I NEED TO DO ?

...AND THE VERY LAST POST OF THE KAWIFORUMS THREAD IS THE ONLY THING THAT CONFUSES ME BECAUSE IT SAYS...



• Run the bike for a minute or three (make sure the oil icon on the LCD turns off after a few seconds, if it doesn’t you may have a problem) to let the oil circulate through the engine and filter.

• Turn the bike off and let the oil drain back into the oil pan. This will take a few minutes.

• Check the sight glass again and add oil until the oil level comes up between the two indicator lines again. (see previous pic)



WHY WOULD I DRAIN OIL BACK INTO OIL PAN AT THE END ...IM SURE I WILL BE MADE FUN OF BUT HONESTLY I HAVE NEVER DONE ANYTHING MECHANICAL.... BUT WHAT AM I MISSING HERE WITH THIS LAST STEP ?

DO THEY MEAN THE "OIL PAN" (AS IN RESERVOIR) ON THE BIKE AS OPPOSED TO THE PAN SLID UNDER THE BIKE TO DRAIN INTO ?

OBVIOUSLY IF I DID THAT I WOULD HAVE NO OIL IN THE BIKE !

JUST CONFUSED BY THE WORDING SORRY

AND IF THERE IS ANYTHING ELSE I SHOULD DO WHILE CHANGING THE OIL PLEASE LET ME KNOW.............THANKYOU !!!!!!!

P.S. THIS IS THE HOW TO I WAS LOOKIN AT... http://www.kawiforums.com/2009-zx-6r...il-change.html

Last edited by THUG; 08-16-2011 at 11:06 PM.
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post #2 of 36 Old 08-16-2011, 11:40 PM
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Ok lets go over it point by point..
My answers are in >>[these]<<


I STILL HAVE TO PURCHASE A TORQUE WRENCH (ANY SUGGESTIONS ?) AND THEN I THINK I AM READY......
>>[ you shouldn't need a torque wrench for this job]<<

FROM WHAT I HAVE READ ON THE INTERNET SO FAR...

I SHOULD LET THE BIKE WARM UP FOR A FEW MIN. TO THIN THE OIL OUT ? YEAH ? ANY IDEA TO WHAT DEGREES ?
>>[The actual temp does not matter ,anything over 150 is good, But a short ride is best]<<

LOOSEN OIL FILLER CAP AND THEN REMOVE DRAIN PLUG ( RE TIGHTEN TO 21 FT/LB)
>>[You must have gotten this one wrong, Iv never heard such, & 21-ft-lb will strep your drain plug,
about 9-10 ft-lb should be enough]<<

THEN REMOVE FILTER (RE TIGHTEN TO 13 FT/LB
>>[Wrong again, & when you do put the new filter on, hand tight is good]<<

FILL NEW OIL FILTER ? AND THEN OIL O RING >>[This is right]<<

REPLACE WASHER ON OIL FILTER ? (NECESSARY?) >>[Right again]<<

ADD 3.1 L (including the oil you poured into the filter) >>[This varies from bike to bike]<<

WHICH SHOULD BE until you see oil between the two marks in the sight glass.
>>[True, but be sure to have the bike on both wheels(not a stand)& held level]<<

I GOT THIS INFO FROM A "KAWIFORUMS" HOW TO...

IS THIS EVERYTHING I NEED TO DO ?

...AND THE VERY LAST POST OF THE KAWIFORUMS THREAD IS THE ONLY THING THAT CONFUSES ME BECAUSE IT SAYS...



• Run the bike for a minute or three (make sure the oil icon on the LCD turns off after a few seconds, if it doesn't you may have a problem) to let the oil circulate through the engine and filter.
>>[This is true & very important, If the light stays on? shut off the engine immediately],
What there referring to hear is a possible air lock that is preventing the oil from circulating through the pump]<<

• Turn the bike off and let the oil drain back into the oil pan. This will take a few minutes.

• Check the sight glass again and add oil until the oil level comes up between the two indicator lines again. (see previous pic)



WHY WOULD I DRAIN OIL BACK INTO OIL PAN AT THE END ...IM SURE I WILL BE MADE FUN OF BUT HONESTLY I HAVE NEVER DONE ANYTHING MECHANICAL.... BUT WHAT AM I MISSING HERE WITH THIS LAST STEP ?

DO THEY MEAN THE "OIL PAN" (AS IN RESERVOIR) ON THE BIKE AS OPPOSED TO THE PAN SLID UNDER THE BIKE TO DRAIN INTO ?

OBVIOUSLY IF I DID THAT I WOULD HAVE NO OIL IN THE BIKE !

JUST CONFUSED BY THE WORDING SORRY

AND IF THERE IS ANYTHING ELSE I SHOULD DO WHILE CHANGING THE OIL PLEASE LET ME KNOW.............THANKYOU !!!!!!!
>>[don't worry about this until it happens, If it does do as I said & hit the kill button,
Come back to this post or PM me & I'll walk ya through it.]<<

............................................SKCUS-ESOR.............................................. .....
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.............................Have Bike, Will Travel...............................

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read only one page"
.................................................. .... - St Augustine.

Last edited by oldninjadude; 08-16-2011 at 11:48 PM.
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post #3 of 36 Old 08-16-2011, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanx oldninjadude i was expecting to just get slammed because i am the only one i know that has never worked on anything mechanical but i never had a dad work on anything or someone to teach me and was never interested enough to learn on my own......

Thankyou though for taking the time to answer all my questions ..... I guess i will do my coolant and chain after that and then not sure what ?

The torque ratings i got off of the link i provided ? Glad i double checked !
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post #4 of 36 Old 08-16-2011, 11:57 PM
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get a good oil filter wrench would avoid using screw driving
method as this can do more damage than good. mho
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post #5 of 36 Old 08-16-2011, 11:58 PM
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When they say let the oil drain back down they mean let it sit so cause the oil has circulated through the engine. So you can get a accurate reading.
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post #6 of 36 Old 08-17-2011, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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i gotcha ... thanx ...it said drain back into "oil pan" which just confused my dumbass .... the k&n filter has a nut on the end to tighten which should make it easy

and i just checked mt manual and it does say 21 and 13 for the torque ratings by the way
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post #7 of 36 Old 08-17-2011, 12:08 AM
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I never use a torque wrench on a oil filter, alway be feel works best.. I do a oil change after a ride and take the sump plug out and let it pour out in a oil catcher and leave it sit for 10 min while i get the filter off and always rub oil around the rubber O ring on the new filter..

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post #8 of 36 Old 08-17-2011, 12:19 AM
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next will be spark plugs hey thug
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post #9 of 36 Old 08-17-2011, 12:48 AM
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O yea one thing make sure u put some oil on the o ring on the filter before you put it on too. Just dip your finger in fresh oil and move it around the o ring.
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post #10 of 36 Old 08-17-2011, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerben View Post
next will be spark plugs hey thug
how many miles for that ?
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post #11 of 36 Old 08-17-2011, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbzx6 View Post
o yea one thing make sure u put some oil on the o ring on the filter before you put it on too. Just dip your finger in fresh oil and move it around the o ring.
yeah i got that
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post #12 of 36 Old 08-17-2011, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerben View Post
next will be spark plugs hey thug
lol... maybe we should let him get a few more oil changes under his belt before we start helping Mr. Thugness with a plug change... hahaha. Hell I've been working on bikes for nearly 25 years and that job just made me irritated. I'm about to to a valve adjustment soon and not looking forward to it.


THUG... OldNinjaDude spelled it out perfectly. And his points on overtightening are spot on. Hand tight is about all I do with the oil filter. And about 10lbs on the drain plug. Don't wanna be strippin' that drain plug threading!


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post #13 of 36 Old 08-17-2011, 08:36 AM
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Yes hand tighten, but if you feel you have a weak wrist or hand ....check to make sure they're still tight every 700 miles our so...just reach thru the fairing to check the filter..under belly to check drain plug(no need to remove anything),use nitrile or latex glove for better grip on filter

Also u know there's a how to thread on this shit, soo

Cmon man..lol
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post #14 of 36 Old 08-17-2011, 08:39 AM
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My filter has a locking mechanism to make sure it won't undo (2003 model) so I just go hand tight (but I guess that's quite tight compared to how tight some people's hands could go!) and lock it up.

Sump plugs are always a lottery if they'll strip. A new crush washer will help reduce the likelihood.
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post #15 of 36 Old 08-17-2011, 09:24 AM
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thug its an easy job so dont worry everything oldninjadude said spot on for beginners.

hand tight for the filter (we say one grunt) dont forget to smear oil over the filter o-ring helps to get it off next time,
i leave my oil to drain for as long as "over night some times" and also leave filter off to,

same on sump plug new washer then tight then one grunt
if you worried about stripping it tighten it up with one hand only

get the bike level when doing all the above
run it for 5 mins then switch it off
stand back and admire it (it is a wheelie machine after all << thought i'd get that in)
then level it up again and check sight glass (5 mins)



any probs just shout im sure all the members on here would be willing to help out

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