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Break in process

13K views 22 replies 16 participants last post by  MadeInJapan 
#1 · (Edited)
Is it okay to run the whole 1600 miles on a freeway within the first week? What I mean is, suppose you have access to dyno machine. Run full tank or even two tanks each day until it reaches the recommended distance. Probably need to break in the transmission and brakes, but since it's not as important as the engine, I figured I could break in other parts later. What is the ideal break in process?
I don't want to be riding like a old lady during break in process.:O
 
#2 ·
I haven't got my 2013 yet, I pick her up in 3 weeks. But I thought the break in process is like 500 or like 800 miles. Not 1600 :O

Can anyone enlighten me? I also would like to here the info on braking in the ZX6R. I've never had a new bike before.
 
#5 ·
My bad, I meant 1600km. I think 800km for the first stage and 1600km completes the break in process.

My NC700X, I really didn't care so I've been going pretty much full throttle. But I want to baby the 636 when it's delivered. Just don't need the frustration from depriving myself.:headbang:
 
#8 ·
yeah i follow as per manual , i don't recommend doing it all on the highway especially for the first 3-400 km because you have to keep switching gears, most people skip the break in period , but i look at it this way, take it easy for 1000 miles and rip her to shreads for the next 119,000 just needs a little patience
 
#9 ·
Yeah honestly dude break in doesn't take long and from the sounds of it you sound like me. Which means its better to take it easy and have the peace of mind of knowing there are no problems than just hoping. Break in is recommended because you are literally BREAKING THINGS IN. Your first change your filter will be heavier than any other time and you will probably find shavings or at least particles of metal in your oil. Aside from things wearing into spec do you really want to have a shaving or particle wedge itself between two spinning pieces at 16k rpm when they aren't at there corect gap or tolerance yet? That said things are made a lot better than they used to be so breaking isn't as ultra important as it used to be but that doesn't mean it doesn't make a difference. My 02
 
#10 ·
When I picked up my new bike a week ago, the salesman and a couple techs all told me to just ride it like normal. No bouncing it off the limiter, or racing anyone, but they've seen bikes that followed the manual to the T for break in and burned a slight bit of oil for the rest of their lives because the engine was never properly heat cycled during break in.

I don't know about the burning oil part, but I've had at least 4 different people tell me to just ride it like normal (within reason), and make sure to change the oil, at the latest, 1000 kms in.
 
#11 ·
Yeah a lot of people say a lot of things lol. I have never heard of a Proper break in causing issues. The thing about break in is you want the rings to properly where in the bore which requires load to make sure they stay straight during firing. If you rev it out you are placing less not more load on the cylinders that's why they recommend low ROMs for the first 400 or whatever miles. Like wise if your a super wimp with the throttle again less load. If you don't put enough load on the engine during break in the rings can wear in oval instead of round and you end up with piston slap and burning oil. Those are extremes though.
 
#12 ·
You can put six different people/mechanics/engine builders/etc into the same room and ask the same question. Guess what? You will get six different answers.
Todays motors are made with modern metals and alloys that make most break in processes of ol , obsolete.

Ride the bike how you plan on riding it, maintain it properly, and you will have a bike that lasts you a long long time.
 
#13 ·
Thank you for the useful information guys. I think I will break her in just to have a peace of mind when I'm going full throttle down the road. Does how you open the throttle make difference during break in? Should I open the throttle slowly or can I open her up as long as I stay within specified rpm?
 
#15 ·
I get my new 2012 ZX6R in less than two weeks, plan to ride it normally within reason. I'm coming from a Ninja 250 so I am sure the first 100 to 200kms will be fairly easy while I get used to the new riding position, clutch, breaks and power. After that keeping it under 4000RPM or even 6000RPM isn't gonna happen. Don't plan on racing it or bouncing the rev limiter either but it will be ride'n with spirit.
 
#16 ·
I'm in the break in process with mine right now. 4k RPM is nothing on this bike. 500 mi can't come quick enough. 4k RPM in 6th gear gets me about 45-50 mph. I find myself shifting like a freaking madman around town. Its almost comical being in 5th gear going 35 mph and a light turns red. I have to ride to work on Monday and have to get on the freeway, so 4k RPM is going to get broken. I've put about 60 mi on it so far.
 
#18 ·
When you get your bike open up the manual there will be a section on break in. I don't believed it makes a difference weather you roll on the throttle or not, though its good practice. But I believed they recommend different max openings, like 1/2 turn etc, for a certain extent. Its been quite a while since I've looked though.
 
#19 ·
I have a brand new zx10r that i am currently breaking in. i do not race it but i am not granny either, i ride slower than i normally would and generally keep the rmps within 4k - 6k rpms through the gears and acceleration shouldn't matter. as long as the engine receives the proper load and sealing the rings then your doing fine. accelerate and decelerate through the gear so everything gets aquatinted
 
#21 ·
Food for thought....

Is your bike under warranty when you first buy it?

Do you trust the design/build team's recommendation over the bro science mantra based on it's speculation that todays metals and internal component design means break on is unnecessary?

Will you rely on this warranty if something was to go wrong with your bike?

Do you believe that the factory will do all they can to avoid a complete replacement of your new motor if there was any way to prove you bagged on it instead of followed their protocol for break in?

If you answered yes to two or more of these questions you may want to run through the break in precisely how Kawasaki describes it.

My .02 only... not looking for debate its just food for thought based on my experiences with serious warranty claims.
 
#23 ·
Thank you all for the information.
I think I'll go with method A. Method B sounds more of a hassle for all the oil changes.
As someone mentioned, I want to break it in properly to avoid break down in a future.
Maybe someone should start breaking in(no pun intended) business so that owners of the bike/car will be stress free during break in period.
 
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