oil level window - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 26 Old 08-04-2013, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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oil level window

changed my oil last night and i'm curious about the oil window. It states in the manual to run the bike for a couple minutes and then wait for a couple minutes to wait for the oil to drain back down to check the oil window, making sure that the oil is between the two notches. I did this but when I woke up this morning I checked it again and the oil level rose above the top notch. Is that normal? Thanks for any help
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post #2 of 26 Old 08-04-2013, 10:35 AM
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the level rose up due oil drain back from engine internals,
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post #3 of 26 Old 08-04-2013, 11:58 AM
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If it's above the top level after having sat overnight and checked with the bike upright. Drain out some oil till level is correct.



Yeah....I can try & make that for ya.
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post #4 of 26 Old 08-04-2013, 12:23 PM
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How is the bike standing when you check the oil?Is it on a motorcycle stand?
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post #5 of 26 Old 08-04-2013, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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i have the bike straight up on level ground when looking at the window. Currently if i let it sit for a long period of time it reads a little under the top notch.
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post #6 of 26 Old 08-04-2013, 03:52 PM
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Should be good then.

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post #7 of 26 Old 08-04-2013, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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The one thing I want to know is when should you check your oil window, either let it idle for a minute/shut it off then check it after another couple minutes, OR let it sit for a night and then check the window. Just curious really, maybe someone could tell me what their window read once they let it sit over night.
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post #8 of 26 Old 08-04-2013, 04:18 PM
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If it makes you feel any better my window is the same as yours. Couple minutes after running, it is perfect in between the two lines. Let it sit overnight and it is higher. I think I put around 3.2 quarts last time.
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post #9 of 26 Old 08-04-2013, 04:21 PM
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Mine is a bit confusing. In the general information at the front of my Owner's Manual it says capacity is 3.8 quarts. In the engine oil capacity under maintenance and adjustment it states that the capacity is 3.3 quarts.

Have to love it when Kawasaki doesn't even know how much oil I should be using.
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post #10 of 26 Old 08-04-2013, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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exactly, i looked in my manual and it said if it was completely dry put 3.8q, i did that and it was too much, so this whole time i'm just making sure I have the right amount
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post #11 of 26 Old 08-04-2013, 05:44 PM
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A little extra oil doesnt make much difference. Just ride it!
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post #12 of 26 Old 08-05-2013, 07:06 AM
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Old story.... True....
.
Back in my hot rod (NHRA and AHRA) race days 30-40 years ago, I was advised by a really old guy (I think he was 40, but I was only 25...), that 20% of your oil is "stuck" on the walls, floors, etc of the block, manifold and head castings. That means 20% of your oil is doing "nothing".
.
Back then if we just wanted to "street race" we either bought a Moroso or Milodon, etc. oil pan for racing, high volume pump (or "blueprinted" a stock pump..), and a wide intake area pick-up. We also installed filter bypass block and ran the oil through s/s lines to a cooler, then to an external filter manifold on the wheel panel and then back to the filter block. That would give you about 12 quarts of insurance policy....
.
Or... depending on the class, you were stuck with the stock pan. But you could modify the pan by cutting off the stock bottom and putting a "square" bottom on it. That meant that the depth and width of the pan was still "stock", but you would get about another 1/2 quart capacity. Other "trick" for the "stock" classes was to use a 2 quart truck filter, but you had to be careful not to clip it on something on the street... So now you were up to 6 1/2 quarts. Not bad, but you want all 6+ quarts for the pump to circulate.
.
The more oil you have for the pump, the cooler the engine runs. So, the next thing we did, was tear down the motor and have it sand blasted (makes it very clean....), and paint the interior surfaces with a high temperature oil resistant paint. I remember using a Dupont orange epoxy based paint. Of course the cam bearing holes, lifter holes, and the immediate area under the cylinders were taped off.
.
Note about the block area underneath the cylinder holes. At really high rpm's the oilsling off the crank and rods is traveling at a bazillion mph and will knock the paint off...
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Now this was a cheap shot but effective way to get the oil back down... to the pump...
.
However... The best way was, unfortunately, very time intensive. That was to grind and polish the entire inner area of the block, the upper area of the heads, underside of the manifold, cam timing chain face, etc., etc. In substance, anywhere oil ran down, make it smooth as possible, and the oil would run off back to the pan as fast as you could shut the engine off and pull the dipstick. I also enlarged all polished oil return holes in the block and heads. Other neat tricks... ream and polish the oil galleries (the passageways by which the pump feeds the bearings, rockers, cam, etc.
.
Took about a week, 4 hours a day, drills with grinder and polisher bits, etc. When it was done, the motor was acid dipped, steamed, etc. to get rid of any particles (death turds to bearings...), followed by a hot soapy water bath and a coat of WD-40.
.
The problem with doing that on a motorcycle motor is that in this modern day and age, the casting is already pretty smooth, and almost all the oil drains down.
.
So where is the missing 0.5 quart? In a bike? It's on the clutch assembly.
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Some folks might say, "why not overfill the case by about 1/2 quart?". The problem there is that you could run into a problem with the clutch/pressure plates being having too much oil when operating.
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Is the clutch system a wet "bath", or is the oil pump also feeding oil over the clutch assembly? If the former, then potential problems (wet spots on the assembly plates when the bike is sitting. The latter? Probably inconsequential.
.
But... otherwise a 1/2 quart overfill likely not cause any problems, except.... you have to let the bike reach operating temperature before heading out. Reason? Once the bike is at op temps, then the oil is "thin" and the sump is not "over filled" as most of the oil is now runnng around the important places oil is supposed to travel.
.
With a full case (or in this case, an overfilled case...) the crank and rod ends are spinning really fast, and if there is too much oil in the case, the rod ends will hit that oil, "froth" it, and splash too much oil on the cylinder walls.
.
Two bad things here... Frothy oil can get into the pump pick up and lead to air bubbles hitting the bearings. Second... too much oil on the cylinder walls will, as sure as God made them that lil' green apples, unseat the rings, and you will start burning oil.
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There's ways to re-seat the rings, but that's beyond the scope of this post...
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Now... if you had a "dry sump" bike like my Harley... you could overfill the oil reservoir tank about 1/2 quart and never have a problem.... LOL!!! Same for you old timers with Triumphs and Nortons!! LOL!!!

Drive your bike like there's a drone watching you... You'll survive, get really old and have to give your wife Viagra for Women...

Last edited by groomlake; 08-05-2013 at 07:13 AM. Reason: spelingk
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post #13 of 26 Old 08-05-2013, 07:25 AM
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Yes, it is better to have the oil between the two notches rather than over the top one. And correct way of checking it is exactly the way Kawasaki tells you to, run for a few minutes, let sit for a few minutes, check.
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post #14 of 26 Old 08-05-2013, 07:35 AM
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ZXROM's absolutely right. Follow the instructions!!! Unless you are racing, or engaging in serious rpm's on the street, the ~3.8 will do just fine.

Drive your bike like there's a drone watching you... You'll survive, get really old and have to give your wife Viagra for Women...
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post #15 of 26 Old 08-05-2013, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by groomlake View Post
Is the clutch system a wet "bath", or is the oil pump also feeding oil over the clutch assembly? If the former, then potential problems (wet spots on the assembly plates when the bike is sitting. The latter? Probably inconsequential.
Excellent post, and if I may add in something here.

I am fairly confident that the clutch packs are fed oil instead of swimming. Like you mentioned about the crank, having a rotating assembly splashing around in the oil can cause air bubbles, but more importantly the oil would increase drag as the rotating assembly would have to fight against the fluid's increased viscosity. This would rob power as well as cause excessive force against the spinning assembly. The last thing you want is for a rivet or hunk of clutch material to break off and start dancing around in the crankcase. Lastly, with the way a wet clutch works you mostly need the oil to allow the clutch to slip without burning up. You still need to have a friction-grab between the plates, and having a bath of oil to draw from would decrease the friction with no way to clear out the oil the plates don't need to use, entirely the opposite effect you want.

The short of this is like you say to your latter point. Overfilling the engine oil, within reason like slightly above the top mark, is going to be inconsequential. Personally I like to overfill slightly like this because it uses up that leftover 1/2 quart or so in the big jug of oil, meaning I can throw it away instead of having a mostly empty carton of oil taking up garage space.
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