2013 Ninja 636 stalling issues - Page 3 - ZX6R Forum
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post #31 of 41 Old 02-27-2014, 09:24 AM
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I had this happen. Then I noticed it only would happen when I filled the tank above the bottom of the inner basket. When I fill it to that level I don't have the issue. When I fill it above trying to get more in I get the issues after riding for awhile. Don't know why? I've only payed attention to it twice so that's not conclusive and could be coincidence.
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post #32 of 41 Old 12-12-2014, 07:52 PM
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Yesterday. Bike warmed up 200F. As I rolled along in first gear on flat ground , without pulling the throttle,( so I am rolling on flat ground at 8mph) I pulled the clutch for 2 seconds, and as soon as I let go of the clutch the bike began to shake and seemed like it was about to die. I pulled the clutch again and released and felt the same feeling. I gave it gas and went about on my ride with no problems. I attempted to get the bike to do it again but
Couldn't get it to. Not sure what this was about but I'm taking it in tomorrow to get it looked at. Never felt the bike do that before. 7400 miles 2013 zx6r.
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post #33 of 41 Old 06-29-2015, 10:16 PM
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Thread back from dead.

I have this same issue now. Bike is 2014 with 3000km. Probably happened to me 5 times so far. Supper annoying as it makes me look like a total noob at street lights.
Anyone resolved this issue at all before I call dealer and cry about it?
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post #34 of 41 Old 06-30-2015, 09:35 PM
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Adjust your idle speed
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2014 ZX-6R 636: M4 Street Slayer Exhaust, FlashTune Bike Tuning Kit, Bazzaz Z-Fi, Z-AFM, MJS Headers, K&N Race Air Filter, RaceTech Gold Valve Fork Kit w/ Bottom & Top-Out Mod, reshimmed & RT Fork Springs, RaceTech Gold Valve Shock w/ Refreshed internals & RT Powdercoated Lime Green Spring, D.I.D Gold Chain, Vortex -1 front sprocket, PMP Sprockets Anodized Green +2 rear aluminum sprocket (-1/+2), GPVR4, Fender Eliminator Kit, MotoDynamics Smoked Integrated LED Taillight, '13 Lower Green Fairings, R6 Throttle Tube, Pro Grip Padded Tank Pad, Stomp Grip Clear Tank Pads, Pazzo IFX Candy Green Shorty Levers, Raskal Graffiks Wheel Decals, Puig Double Bubble Dark Smoke Windscreen, Driven Block-Off Plates, Driven Gold Spools, Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 Bi-Xenon Projectors, Morimoto 5Five 50w 6000k HID's, (6) Morimoto XC RGB Angel Eyes, Pirelli Diablo Rosso Corsa's, etc...
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post #35 of 41 Old 02-21-2016, 03:38 PM
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stalls all the time

My 2013 636 does this so often, I've become a pro at slipping it into neutral whilst moving and restarting the bike. It's infuriating; makes you look like some kind of noob who can't control his clutch. I resolved it by setting my idle to around 1200rpm. I don't like this solution as it means I'm guzzling 40% more fuel than if I had my idle set to usual level 850-900'ish. I might read into and have a go at doing this sub-throttle valve mod.

Another option might be to change the fueling map at 0% throttle if you have a PCV or equivalent; they recommend you don't change those 0% throttle columns but to be honest, stalling in the middle of the road, particularly mid-turn when you're about to join a motorway, is dangerous as frak.
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post #36 of 41 Old 02-21-2016, 05:28 PM
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Your idle should not be below 1k RPM I think, that's too low and causing the engine to stall. I don't remember the manufacturer recommended idle RPM, you can probably get that in the user manual.

Why do you need to slip it into neutral to start? Can't you clutch in (while in gear) and start it up without needing to enter neutral first?

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post #37 of 41 Old 03-20-2017, 06:11 PM
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Reviving the thread, I've experienced this with my 2013 636 a number of times. It has been happening more frequently since I recently replaced the air filter with a new OEM filter. This typically happens when the bike is not fully warm (under 160 deg temp), and I come to a stop, clutch in (of course), shortly after beginning my ride. It's like the bike just dips below normal idle rpms and stalls. I presumed that the the new air filter, well oiled out of the original packaging, affects the air mix under these conditions just enough to contribute to this problem, but I did notice it before, just not as often. Once the bike gets up to full operating temp, it runs fine with no stalling. I've never had this happen more than once or twice at the beginning of a ride, but it is annoying. I normally let the bike warm up to about 120 degrees before setting out on a ride. Has anyone figured out the cause and/or remedy for this?
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post #38 of 41 Old 03-21-2017, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by DHS1981 View Post
Reviving the thread, I've experienced this with my 2013 636 a number of times. It has been happening more frequently since I recently replaced the air filter with a new OEM filter. This typically happens when the bike is not fully warm (under 160 deg temp), and I come to a stop, clutch in (of course), shortly after beginning my ride. It's like the bike just dips below normal idle rpms and stalls. I presumed that the the new air filter, well oiled out of the original packaging, affects the air mix under these conditions just enough to contribute to this problem, but I did notice it before, just not as often. Once the bike gets up to full operating temp, it runs fine with no stalling. I've never had this happen more than once or twice at the beginning of a ride, but it is annoying. I normally let the bike warm up to about 120 degrees before setting out on a ride. Has anyone figured out the cause and/or remedy for this?
Yeah, the '13 models had this issue with the ECU.

Theres many threads on this forum about it.

This one has some good info: Strange starting problem in the canyons
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post #39 of 41 Old 03-21-2017, 06:00 PM
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Thanks ScorpiO.
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post #40 of 41 Old 03-21-2017, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Daft View Post
I had this happen. Then I noticed it only would happen when I filled the tank above the bottom of the inner basket. When I fill it to that level I don't have the issue. When I fill it above trying to get more in I get the issues after riding for awhile. Don't know why? I've only payed attention to it twice so that's not conclusive and could be coincidence.
Had the same thing. Must be something to do with the evap system but yeah, the bike doesn't like to start warm or cold with too much gas in the tank.

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post #41 of 41 Old 04-09-2017, 04:03 AM
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I have been dealing with the cutoff issue for a few years now. I just bought a Woolich ECU flashing kit and flashed a newer stock BIN file. Since then, I have had normal Idle and no cutoffs when clutching in. I can ride the bike now without stalling coming to a stop. I also found out when I got the ECU out was that I had a California ECU even though I bought the bike on the east coast.
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