1) First off, are you saying that if I can't do 20 laps without feeling like I'm going to pass out, I have terrible BP? I'll be honest, I've never been able to do that. Best I've ever done, at any track was 15 laps and it was in my first race ever, and I'm guessing the adrenaline is the only thing that got me through it because I felt like I was beat up after those 15 laps, and I haven't done it since then lol. But I always attributed that with being an out-of-shape fatass, not so much that I have terrible BP.
2. I can say with confidence that my biggest struggle is and has always been putting too much pressure on the handle bars. I know that because not only that I just feel it when riding, but also because my hands/wrists are what fatigue the fastest. I've had to come into the pits a few laps sooner than I planned at times only because my right hand was so numb that I could barely feel feedback from the brake lever and throttle, and I was starting to make mistakes.
But the question is, HOW do I fix that? I know the problem, and I know what you're supposed to do (pretty much what you stated above), but I seem to have a big problem with actually doing it. It's sort of like with golf...I know exactly what I need to do to hit a good shot, but I can only do it about 1/5 times. So do you have any tips on how to actually fix that? Also, once you start turning into a corner, when you obviously need to apply some pressure in order to turn the bike, do you just back off that pressure and only use the minimum amount required to keep the bike leaned over? Thing of a longer corner, like a carousel type where you're at full lean for a good 5+ seconds. Can you elaborate in more detail on how you distribute your weight in longer turns like that? I think part of my problem might be that I'm not anchoring myself well onto the bike, so in longer turns at full lean it feels like I'm about to fall off the bike and I use my inside hand to hold myself on, which is less than ideal. Sometimes I wonder how I don't crash with as much pressure I put on the inside handle bar....must be because modern day front race tires are just freakin awesome!
EDIT: also to add to the above, what about bar input under WOT on straights? Am I the only one that feels like I'm doing pull-ups when going full stick on the straights? I feel like i'm holding on for dear life or else I fly off the back of the bike, and that's while at full tuck. It was especially bad with my liter bike, but even on the ZX6R is pretty close to that. Don't know exact numbers, but figure these bikes can pull at least 0.5 G on acceleration if you do it right (in the power band). So holding on the bars at that is like holding half your weight in your hands. So at 220 lbs, the hands are holding a force of about 110 lbs, or 55 lbs each hand. So basically on every straightaway, it's like holding a 5 gal bucket full of water in each hand for about 10-15 seconds or however long it takes to travel the length of the straightaway. Then on the brakes, the G-force is even higher since the brakes are more powerful, so now it's like bench-pressing 100-150 lbs and holding it there for a few seconds (duration of braking zone). Granted, you use the tank to distribute that force a lot more so only a part of that is actually on the hands, but still adds up.[/QUOTE]
PS., you are totally correct about Kevin Schwantz. He and Rainey were always a study in contrast. On that note, the most consistent riders that I have personally witnessed in order of consistency were Rainey, Doug Polen, Troy Corser, and John McGuiness. Pure magic on a raging race bike.
Onto sbk1198's inquiry:
Q 1) It is utterly illogical to think that the rider ought to conform to a motorcycle. It's not going to happen; but... it is fairly easy to adapt the bike's ergonomics to suit said rider (to be sure, at a price). This is what I have come away with after a couple or more decades of racing, and of long distance touring on hard core sport bikes: a rider cannot ride fast, nor ride far if they are uncomfortable. Period. This premise is completely foundational!
So, what to change? Because one's feet literally are the foundation for a rider, it is a prerequisite to use FULLY adjustable rearsets. I have used a lot of rearsets, and the ones I continually go back for Rizoma. Sure, they are pretty, but everything is adjustable, along with Woodcraft folding toe pegs, these bad boys will get you back home, or to the pits after a crash. Next up are the SpeedyMoto adjustable clip-ons. Again, these are beautifully designed & made. Upon initial examination they don't wow most people, but they can significantly alter rider bike interface. A plus for racers is they utilize a 2-pc clamp, so can be changed out without having to remove the top triple clamp. I go with an after market saddle, this one from ZG. My all time favourite saddle are from Sargent Saddles, but unfortunately they do not make them for the Ninja. I prefer shorty levers since I have small - medium sized hands. Location seems to be critical for me, I like have them ever so slightly lower than straight out.
I am a middle-aged codger with a few too many lbs, but I will ride on a regular basis a full 10-hr day, stopping only for fuel - petrol for the ZX, and trail mix & protein bar(s) for me. I wear a Camelback w/a 50:50 fruit juice & a sports drink mix that stays ever so close to my maw. No caffeine.This sort of riding I regularly do 2 X a month, I go for 4-5 hr rides the alternating wks. Simply put, I love to ride. To be honest, there are those rare times where I'm not in the zone, I don't force it. I turn around and go home... usually cleaning & generally fiddling with the bike. Be smart. Be safe.
Q2) This is the universal sin amongst most riders. This is where bad habits come to roost. If you have front & rear stands, or have a friend up font & another out back holding you & bike up... I actually prefer the former to the latter. Sit on your bike in a normal riding position. Not a full racing tuck. Leant forward with your back straight, but definitely angled froward, with hands on the grips. They should be in position to operate the clutch & brake. Now take both hands off the grips at the same time. If you face planted you are doing it wrong. In fact, if your head bobbed at all you are doing it wrong. Your grip on the hand controls in riding a bike are very similar to that of playing golf: just enough grip to keep control... and to counter-steer. If you are 'leaning' on your hand controls your are feeding unnecessary/conflicting information to the front end. This will lead to a vague feeling, your turn ins will be wide/narrow, and you'll feel more fatigued because you are literally vibrating your energy stores out of yourself.
So, what can one do to keep the blood flowing?
It goes back to those adjustments you made with your rearsets & clip-ons. Your balls of your feet are your literal anchors. That's why it's so vital to have rearsets that fit YOU first & foremost. Up top, there are two lovely cut-outs, the 1st (lower) is for your knee/thigh; the 2nd is higher up and is angled inward & forward, this is for your forearm. If any of you ride horses you'll know what comes next. Use the outside leg to shove inward against the tank what weighting the inside peg. Also use that newly anchored forearm to bear some of the weight and to make sure you are not pulling the outer grip. Simultaneously counter-steering by PUSHING the inside arm. Push left, go left. I know, the devil is in the details.
OTHERS: This bit about WOT & doing pull up whilst rapidly accelerating is probably the 2nd most often sin committed by sport bike riders. Going back to the foundation, it's the legs that need to be used, not the arms. When accelerating weigh the balls of your feet and rotate your head/upper torso forward - lowly over the tank. Do Not Let Your Butt Slide Backwards - at all! When you pull your weight with your arms you'll create instability, even a head shake bad enough to incite a tank slapper. The reason it was worse with the litre bike is because they have so much F-ing power that they compress time frames whilst augmenting the force of gravity on you. And once again, it's back to same repeating theme, use your strong legs & not your much weaker arms. An aside, is that by using your legs and not your arms you are keeping your centre of gravity lower and more centralized. This in turn, contributes to the whole bike/rider combo stability.
Your Q regarding force and turning: as many here have stated prior, go read The Code (as in Keith). To put briefly, it all depends on the type of corner. Some are constant radius, some are decreasing radius, whilst others are increasing radius. Some corners are part of a complex where successive, yet differently conceived types of corners are linked giving the whole a vastly more complicated complexion than the constituents curves have on their own. I don't mean to avoid the original Q, but it's a lot more than the ample time we have going on at present. My advice is get the two books by Code, read and inwardly digest, then come back with more specifics. Truly, what I've pointed out previously will guide you in the correct path.