First couple of Mods - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 04-11-2017, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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First couple of Mods

Hello everyone! VohrteFahrt here again.

This time I want to discuss mods. I am not looking for anything like turboes or HP gain, just ergonomics etc. On top of that I am planning on modifying me (aka track days, skill riding courses, etc). I was just wondering what else people typically do to their bike for street use? In the meantime I want to make this bike... a little more... me.

My bike has an aftermarket slip on. I will get a full system later in the year or next year unless a really great deal comes my way. Looking at Arrow, IXIL, Yoshi, Akrop. I will be on the prowl for a PCV or equivalent for when the time comes. I think the gearing is fine as well I don't foresee me doing any sprocket or chain changes (until life of chain needs replaced anyway).

I want to raise the bars slightly, any advice, or tips? The seat was comfortable enough that after about 150 miles I was only a little sore in my legs. This was due to the new riding position of the zx6r compared to my old 300. I did notice a little but of my right wrist was stiff and bothering my towards the end. That is most likely from holding on for dear life as I got used to the power and delivery of the 4 cylinder motor.

Back to the bars, I think that higher bars might help with my wrist as well? maybe? What about Shorty levers are they a must? I have medium-small hands (they're a little too big for small nitrile gloves but the mediums are just a little loose). The bike did not come with a manual or anything. How hard is it to adjust the front levers? (I already adjusted the angle.)

For suspension the Dealer offered $60 for a full suspension setup to me. Is this worth it? Something I can do myself? I have a lot of different tools so unless a special Fork tool is needed I should have the right bits, allen wrenches, etc.

Thank you in advanced. Sorry again for the Long post.

TLDR; Ergonomic mods? Handle bar risers? Any experience with Suspension tuning?

VohrteFahrt
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post #2 of 18 Old 04-11-2017, 08:58 AM
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The levers can be adjusted for the distance they become active at.

That's the numbered knob on top. Pull the lever 'away' from the bar, then while you are holding it 'out' change the number facing the lever. Each number is beside a hole that is a different depth. As you change numbers the distance between the lever and the bar will change. Find the position that allows you to lay your fingers just past the knuckle on top of the lever, so you can use the finger tips and a bit more to exert force on the lever.

When you have the angle of the levers set correctly, it's just a straight reach 'out' to lay your fingers on top of the lever.... you don't want to reach up or down to do it, just reaching out like you were going to shake someone's hand.

The point where the clutch lever engages is even easier to adjust, as that's just spinning the knob by the cable end.

It should be mentioned that it is very easy to get this too tight..... you have to leave a bit of slack in the lever so when you turn the bars lock to lock you don't make the clutch slip. The tip of the lever should wiggle maybe 1/4" when the bars are pointed straight ahead.

Ergos, you can buy risers to elevate the clip ons... the biggest issue with that is potentially interfering with the fairing. ZedExMuse has done this with success.

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post #3 of 18 Old 04-11-2017, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RJ2112 View Post
The levers can be adjusted for the distance they become active at.

That's the numbered knob on top. Pull the lever 'away' from the bar, then while you are holding it 'out' change the number facing the lever. Each number is beside a hole that is a different depth. As you change numbers the distance between the lever and the bar will change. Find the position that allows you to lay your fingers just past the knuckle on top of the lever, so you can use the finger tips and a bit more to exert force on the lever.

When you have the angle of the levers set correctly, it's just a straight reach 'out' to lay your fingers on top of the lever.... you don't want to reach up or down to do it, just reaching out like you were going to shake someone's hand.

The point where the clutch lever engages is even easier to adjust, as that's just spinning the knob by the cable end.

It should be mentioned that it is very easy to get this too tight..... you have to leave a bit of slack in the lever so when you turn the bars lock to lock you don't make the clutch slip. The tip of the lever should wiggle maybe 1/4" when the bars are pointed straight ahead.

Ergos, you can buy risers to elevate the clip ons... the biggest issue with that is potentially interfering with the fairing. ZedExMuse has done this with success.
Thank you, Yes clutch levers are usually very similar. I was wondering what that dial was! Thank you for the great information. I will look into any risers that dont interfere with the fairings. It's not terrible but tight space maneuvering (my garage) would be easier if I wasn't worried about pinching my fingers between my tank and the handlebars
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post #4 of 18 Old 04-11-2017, 11:35 AM
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If you want acceleration on that bike, you need to gear it down. This is the single best dollar for dollar modification that is available bar none. Sounds like you want to make it pretty. Carry on...........
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post #5 of 18 Old 04-11-2017, 11:39 AM
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It's also a good idea to set the foot controls so it's intuitive to engage the controls. The center of throw for the shifter is adjustable, by extending or contracting the link to the transmission.... that will alter the height of the tip of the shifter. Once you loosen both lock nuts, the center of the shaft can be spun to make the eyes on either end go out or in..... the threading on the shaft is CCW on one end and CW on the other.

"Basic stuff fellas. Use your head for something other than to break your next fall."

"There's this adage that we have 2 ears and one mouth so we should listen twice as much as we talk. Unfortunately with the Internet people have taken this old adage and turned it around. They have two eyes and 10 fingers so they think they need to post 5 times as much as they read. And since they have 10 fingers and one brain, they only have to think 10% of the time! "
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post #6 of 18 Old 04-11-2017, 01:14 PM
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Someone recently put CBR1000R or 1000RR clip ons, which naturally are higher than the ZX6R ones. They'll get you as high as you can go before your clip ons are hitting the fairing.

If you want to justify the pretty pieces as 'also functional', then Woodcraft case savers (stator cover, engine cover), adjustable rearsets, Woodcraft frame sliders (if you are one for those, they're controversial). @PainfullySlo makes good adjustable levers, MadScientist Moto. Do stainless steel brake lines.

Beyond that you can do anodized bolts, titanium bolts, upgraded rotors, remove the passenger pegs, pull off parts and powdercoat, etc.

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post #7 of 18 Old 04-11-2017, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by the prophet View Post
If you want acceleration on that bike, you need to gear it down. This is the single best dollar for dollar modification that is available bar none. Sounds like you want to make it pretty. Carry on...........
wait.. people want these to accelerate faster?!?! I had it on traction control 3 and was still pulling up the front end O.O'

Quote:
Originally Posted by commiehunter View Post
Someone recently put CBR1000R or 1000RR clip ons, which naturally are higher than the ZX6R ones. They'll get you as high as you can go before your clip ons are hitting the fairing.

If you want to justify the pretty pieces as 'also functional', then Woodcraft case savers (stator cover, engine cover), adjustable rearsets, Woodcraft frame sliders (if you are one for those, they're controversial). @PainfullySlo makes good adjustable levers, MadScientist Moto. Do stainless steel brake lines.

Beyond that you can do anodized bolts, titanium bolts, upgraded rotors, remove the passenger pegs, pull off parts and powdercoat, etc.
It already has yoshimura frame sliders (thankfully as the previous owner dropped it at a stand still) Saved the plastics. The way I see it if I crash at speed frame sliders or no.. the bike is going to be effed up.

How hard are break lines to do? My lat project was an 89 yamaha blaster (199cc 2 stroke) and that was a lot of pain in the ass work.
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post #8 of 18 Old 04-11-2017, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by VohrteFahrt View Post
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How hard are break lines to do? My lat project was an 89 yamaha blaster (199cc 2 stroke) and that was a lot of pain in the ass work.

I did my brake lines in an afternoon (it's about average difficulty to fit, it's the bleeding that's a ballache. swapped stock for HEL braided race setup (two lines from the front MC)

This makes the system (or so I think) much easier bleed as you don't get the air trapped over the mudguard line.

It's definitely one of the best performance mods you can make. turns the brakes into anchors

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post #9 of 18 Old 04-11-2017, 01:54 PM
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If you're not too confident installing brake lines I would recommend Venhill. Very easy to install. You place the banjos and then you can attach the brake lines with much simpler routing threading into them. Allows you to perfectly position the banjos without the line getting in the way.

Venhill Braided Front Brake Lines 2013-2016 Kawasaki ZX-6R (Non-ABS) | Venhill USA


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post #10 of 18 Old 04-11-2017, 02:33 PM
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Brake pads do more to stop you than lines ever will.
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post #11 of 18 Old 04-11-2017, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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What about a steering damper? Anyone know sites selling those for really cheap? (~300-400) instead of like 700?
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post #12 of 18 Old 04-11-2017, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by VohrteFahrt View Post
What about a steering damper? Anyone know sites selling those for really cheap? (~300-400) instead of like 700?
Piece it together. Buy a oem Ohlins off any recent Kawi zx6 or zx10 (exclude 2015-newer zx10s) and have it re-valved by Thermosman or Kyle Racing. That should put you around $200 total. Then buy the brackets you need from Partzilla or Motosport etc.. And you'll be well under $700 and have the same thing. Just did this exact process with my buddy cost him around $440
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post #13 of 18 Old 04-11-2017, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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Piece it together. Buy a oem Ohlins off any recent Kawi zx6 or zx10 (exclude 2015-newer zx10s) and have it re-valved by Thermosman or Kyle Racing. That should put you around $200 total. Then buy the brackets you need from Partzilla or Motosport etc.. And you'll be well under $700 and have the same thing. Just did this exact process with my buddy cost him around $440
Anyone have leaking issues with the GPR? should i go for the V4s?
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post #14 of 18 Old 04-11-2017, 06:57 PM
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Anyone have leaking issues with the GPR? should i go for the V4s?
I have a GPR. It had a mild leak at first so I sent it off to GPR and they rebuilt it for free. I also asked for lighter oil. No more leaks.

STG has the ohlins unit for 600$ and 375$ without the hardware https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/o...-across-mount/

You can always give the Matris units a try too if you really want to keep it under 400$

Matris Steering Damper SD-K Kit - Kawasaki ZX-6R 636 13-

http://www.carpimoto.com/en-US/42929...r-SD-R-Kit.htm

LSL also has one

https://spieglerusa.com/controls/ste...titan-7073.htm

http://www.thestuntfactory.com/kastdaki.html


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Last edited by jd41; 04-11-2017 at 07:01 PM.
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post #15 of 18 Old 04-11-2017, 07:51 PM
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I'm a bit like you in no track use, no big need for more HP. I bought a set of adjustable clip-ons when I got the bike last year but have yet to install them. Had Helbar clip ons on my CBR600RR but after riding the ZX6R they felt very upright. Have yet to take a long trip on the ZX6R so may decide to change them. They do get you up a bit where not so much pressure on the wrists - I try and use core body strength to keep my weight off the wrists. Since I've been working out in the recliner by lifting the remote :-) it has been more difficult. Bought a GPR V4 and it was not good, way too stiff so bought a Olines from the fella on this site and it is great. I think the GPR just needs to be sent back and re-done which they are supposed to do for free. If anyone wants it send me a PM with a offer. The Olines (I can't spell and I've got an engineering degree to prove it). IMO the damper is a must for spirited street riding and an absolute for track use. There is a bump I hit well up in second gear, slightly leaned over and without the damper it shakes its head a bit but settles down quickly, like the whole bike would wiggle. With the damper set at 6 clicks from soft there is nothing just a small bump but absolutely no disturbance.

Question for everyone about rear sets. I shattered my kneecap almost a year ago loosing the bottom 1/4 and had the tendon reattached to what was left. I have normal range of motion but still a bit of stiffness and on rides over an hour I a bit stiff. What is a good rears that would allow adjustment so that I could relax the bend in my knee? I think a little bit down and forward would be good.

Rode a BMW S1000RR last Saturday, nice but hear off the engine and a tighter bend in knee made it less comfortable.
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