2013 ecu - Page 2 - ZX6R Forum
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post #16 of 26 Old 05-04-2017, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireman237 View Post
Go to a different dealer. Mine had the same issue as all other 13s. Took it to dealer, the were able to immediately duplicate the issue and ordered a new ECU right then. Few days later, I was good to go with no trouble since then.

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ECU has already been replaced.
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post #17 of 26 Old 05-04-2017, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etuke View Post
ECU has already been replaced.
Does it give you the cold start issue every time, or regularly? Can you take it to the dealer, and with the engine cold, have them duplicate the issue. If so, they cannot just not fix it. They have to. Especially under warranty. Contact Kawi or go through another dealer.

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post #18 of 26 Old 05-04-2017, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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If I take the bike for a ride it will do this the next day everytime,If I just start the bike in the shed and shut it off it will usually start fine the next day.Whenever they have the bike at the dealer and replace something they say it started fine but nobody there can take the bike for a ride(guess they don't have a bike license,I dunno)When I picked it up last Saturday after all winter at their dealership they had 2 young ppl get it out for me(they were just laborers not actual mechanics)and when I tried to start it she did the same as the video on the 1st page.I told them that I don't think it was fixed but it was nothing to them,they looked like stock boys.I took it because it was laid up for a long time so I gave it the benefit and hoped it was just that but the next day after a little ride it did the same thing that's when I went back to the dealer.The mechanic said it started fine there,I'm trying to be civil as they are the only dealer in the area and I don't want them to just give up on me.Seems the colder it is the worst it starts,its like the fast idle doesn't kick in fast enough or only about 10 secs of actual run time.The bike is actually worse now than when it was first bought.The dealer is now waiting on word back from kawi as to what to do next but my warranty is up at the end of june so I'm a bit worried it won't be taken care of.
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post #19 of 26 Old 05-06-2017, 01:06 PM
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To answer your original question. Yes the ECU would fit. 2013-2016 bikes are the same bike. I'm not saying it will solve your problem but it will be a straight swap.

Don't know if you are buying it from the same region, but different country ECU's have different emissions regulations so bare that in mind.

Andy
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post #20 of 26 Old 05-06-2017, 09:22 PM
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I Ride: 2014 ZX-6R 636
In my opionion, if the dealer did what they say, "changed the ECU multiple times, changed the throttle assembly, fuel injectors" that pretty much eliminated all electronic problems. If the spark plugs are new (which may or may not be), then the only thing left is
fuel (switch brands/octane? see below)
Engine problems (worn out rings/cylinder causing bad compression). Unlikey, given the low miles. If it rides OK in cold/hot, then there's no engine problem)
Other overlooked mechanical problems? (exhaust flaps? PCV? EGR? Evap? Airbox flap?)

Swapping ECU require pairing it with your key's immobilzer chip? If you are thinking of swapping it yourself, how are you going to do the pairing?

I bought my ZX-6R 636 in Feb 2014. Now it has 12,500km completely stock with same spark plugs and air filter since the day i bought it (I don't treat her good, I change the oil every 5,000km(3,000 miles) and I run cheap truck oil CI-4 15W40, No Rotella here). Where I live, the temperatures range from 5 celsius(41 f) to 35 celsius(95 f) and there is only 93aki gasoline.

I often give a bit of thorttle when thumbing the start button, because I realized it's slightly easier to fire it up. It was behaving like this first day I bought it brand new from the dealer.

In cold temperatures, about 11 celsius(51 f), although I don't have your long cranking problem, it does run rough for the first few seconds, just like your bike in the video. I don't wait for the engine to warm up and ride it easy straight away. The throttle response was slightly slower, the revs not as smooth/crisp, but these goes away after 5 minutes of riding, just like my car.

When the bike is fully warmed up, and i need to restart it (such as after a short break in the twisties) My bike must need some throttle when thumbing the start button, or it will never start. It was behaving like this first day but I never consider that to be a problem.

I just watched your video.
How long did you own the bike for?
Have you tried giving a bit of throttle when thumbing the starter?
In what temperatures does your cold start issue happen?
Does it also do it in the summer (what is the summer temperature)?

What kind of gasoline are you getting? 91 or 93?
Try switch different brands. Also If you've been fueling 93, try 91. It can run 91 no problem.
In really cold temperatures, running a slightly lower octane actually helps combustion, but never lower than what the manufacturer stated.

Apart from long cranking when cold, when it finally starts, do you ride it straight away OR do you let it warm up a bit? Either way, how does the engine respond when you ride it? Does it stumble/hesitate?

2014 BMW 118i (F20) Dads, 2014 ZX-6R 636 mine, 2008 PGO Gmax 200 mine
Bike:08 LF-125>92 Ninja 500>14 ZX6R 636, 08 Gmax 200 Car:93 Mitsubishi Expo 1.8>96 Renault Clio 1.2>13 BMW 118i
Natalia Starr, Keisha Grey, Alexis Adams, Kasia, Jinx Maze, Aspen Reign, Layla London, Mia Khalifa
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post #21 of 26 Old 05-07-2017, 03:46 AM
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Just a curious question.

When I was getting mine in the UK I asked the dealerships showed videos from the states on you tube about bikes stalling approaching and sitting at traffic lights. They have never had a bike returned to them with anything wrong.

He started it and after a couple of seconds and a short blip of the throttle it stalled and was idling at 1000rpm, the manual states an idle of 1300rpm is needed. Any less it will likely stall, anymore you risk fouling the plugs. I turned my idle up to the correct rpm and it has never stalled since that first time. A to low of an idle will also suffer with a long crank on starting because it can't keep itself going, not enough speed to overcome the compression and drag of the engine and the butterflies will not be letting enough air in.

Also any engine will sound a little rough cold, mine does but as soon as it starts warming up it sounds much better.

Andy
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post #22 of 26 Old 05-07-2017, 05:30 AM Thread Starter
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The ECU was only changed once,had the bike almost a year now.When I fist got it I had to throttle it to start even warm but that got better with time,the long crank time is something that happened since the dealer has been trying to fix it(wasn't like this new).Temps are around 10-14C right now and last year it was better the warmer it got but never to the point of starting the first try.We can only get 91 octane here and that's the only fuel I have ran in the bike.After the warm up the bike runs great,no stalling or hesitation.I did crank the idle up to about 1700 or so to get it starting better hot but last time running I put it back to the 1300 to see if it made any difference cold(haven't tried it yet).I always let it warm up before I ride it,to about 50-70c.I did not know about the key immobilizer if swapping the ECU so thanks for pointing that out as I would have wasted my $$ there and the same for any fuel mapping.If I do decide to try it I will talk to the dealer first and get them to install it.I have not touched the bike mechanically to try and cure the problem as it was under warranty,it still has the factory exhaust.Warranty is up in june and I'm thinking I will be SOL with this problem so I may just get rid of it.I have never had a bike that you had to throttle it to start warm or cold,even the older FI models would start easily no problem so I don't know why Kawi would make a bike like this its annoying and embarrassing to have a new bike and have to crank it several time just to get it running,Kawi sould be ashamed to have built a bike like that.Its not like its the first FI they ever made and didn't know how.


P.S I have been reading up on the immobilizer and I'm pretty sure when they replaced the ECU they only had the 1 key and according to the service manual both keys have to be programmed.Both my keys work so did they really change the ecu after all?

Last edited by etuke; 05-07-2017 at 07:06 AM. Reason: adding information
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post #23 of 26 Old 05-07-2017, 09:12 AM
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It sounds like no. The two keys are coded to the ecu, you lose both keys and it's a new set of keys,ignition barrel and ecu.

If both of your original keys still work I would guess it's still the same ecu. Unless a kawasaki dealer can change the ecu to match the original key code via the diagnostic port of the bike.

You should not have to add throttle at start up, that is a definite defect.

Andy
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post #24 of 26 Old 05-07-2017, 07:54 PM
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I Ride: 2014 ZX-6R 636
I set my idle to 1,300rpm with coolant reached 80 celsius. Also with my experience with this bike, the idle rpm tend to decrease the more miles you have on the engine oil. Once you change the oil, it goes back up 1-200 rpm.

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2014 BMW 118i (F20) Dads, 2014 ZX-6R 636 mine, 2008 PGO Gmax 200 mine
Bike:08 LF-125>92 Ninja 500>14 ZX6R 636, 08 Gmax 200 Car:93 Mitsubishi Expo 1.8>96 Renault Clio 1.2>13 BMW 118i
Natalia Starr, Keisha Grey, Alexis Adams, Kasia, Jinx Maze, Aspen Reign, Layla London, Mia Khalifa
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post #25 of 26 Old 05-08-2017, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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Just got an answer back on the ECU from the ebay member and he said the ECU's don't have the immobilizer down there,this is coming from Texas.Is this true?
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post #26 of 26 Old 05-13-2017, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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Last ride I had on the bike I set the idle back to around 12-1300,I had previously had it up around 1700 for easier hot starting.I needed fuel so I had a ride on it and put it away in the shed.That was about 6 days ago,went out today to try it again with the camera recording and the damn thing started perfectly.Could the higher adjusted idle affect the cold start that much?I always had the idle a bit high for easier hot starts so I may have been the cause of the cold start problem all this time.
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